Diagnose my 1996 Dodge Dakota V6 3.9 Automatic Transmission- starts dies starts dies symptoms?

SOURCE: 95 Dodge Dakota 4 Cyl Dies

try replacing the coil, my 2.5 did the same thing, and after changing plugs,wires,distributor,rotor,rotor button . the last thing i repalced was the coil and i have not had an issue since. all work was done about 6 months ago.

SOURCE: 2002 dodge dakota runs for 5-6 mins then dies

it could be your timing chain and gears going out.

Marvin

• 85242 Answers
• Posted on Dec 27, 2008

SOURCE: 98 dakota engine dies

timing chains either go out or not go out, there is no such thing as an intermittent problem with a timing chain, what about the ignition module? it is sensitive to heat, and like the crank and cam sensors can cause your kind of problem. U did not mention fuel pressure either, electric fuel pumps can stop from heat when they get near the end of there service life (100,000), this is even more common if the fuel tank is run below 1/4 tank allot, this overheats the pump in the tank because it is not covered in gas, that is how it is cooled.

SOURCE: 1993 Dodge shadow engine codes

need to change the pick up coil in the distributor it has i belive its a plug in with 2 wires black and white.i had the some problem the car would run for a few miles then would just turn off when hot then would start up the part ran me about 20 bucks

SOURCE: Noise in front wheels of 97 dodge dakota

You have a wheel hub assembly with bad needle bearings. Make sure by getting the vehicle up to operating speed and cruise a curvy road. A quieting down on a right hand turn will indicate a left wheel bearing assembly,(and vice versa) and you have to put some force into the turn in order to notice the changes in the sound. You'll find one turn will be quieter than the other. I had this problem with a similar vehicle and purchased the wheel hub assembly through Rock Auto (google them. You'll be glad you did). Thirty percent cheaper than the local parts house, and they shipped the part quite quickly. Make sure, by the way, to clean out the pocket where the assembly goes in. Simply pull the wheel off, drop the caliper, and you'll see three bolts holding the assembly. Take the nut off the end of the axle shaft and be prepared to beat the old assembly off with a heavy hammer. You will not have to drop either ball joint, although you should inspect them for wear at that time. Slip the replacement assembly onto the shaft and line up the splines before trying to mount the assembly. The whole job should take you maybe about an hour, and you may not break all that much of a sweat while you're at it. Good luck and be confident. You can do this!