Code for bad ignition switch? - 2007 Saturn Ion

E26 and E27 which is "Shorted throttle switch signal" and "Open throttle switch signal".
The code E52 just means that the ECM lost power or ground or that someone forgot to clear the code after hooking the battery back up. It could mean a bad computor but not very often. 2 things that come to mind is a bad ignition key or lock cylinder or a faulty neutral safety switch. Try the other ignition key first. Then with your foot on the brake pedal hold the key in the start position and move the shifter slowly from P to D. If it tries to start then the NS Switch is bad or out of adjustment. If it still won't start then you will need to troubleshoot the ignition key/PASS KEY system for an open wire in the steering column. Hope that helps. Bill

This is a Code that has a few reasons to show. Most are in the Antitheft system. It can be a bad Keychip, bad Ignition switch or a Voltage problem for the security module.

Check some of the other things that should happen when you turn the car on. It can show that the ignition switch is off when it shows on and this messes with the Antitheft. Try an extra key, see if it works better,

It has everything to do with the firing. Ignition system consists of the computer, the crank and cam position sensors, the coils, spark plugs, ignition control module, the ignition switch, and the associated wiring.

If you have no fire (no spark), one would start by checking if ignition switch turning on causes the coil to receive battery voltage on the coil primary wire.
Always check for trouble codes when an engine problem develops. Codes stored in memory may have clues to why it won't start. If no codes are present and no spark (no ignition), suspect a bad crank position sensor (it can be tested by a shop), or possibly a bad ignition control module (also can be tested at a parts store for free).

It's not really a switch. Below is a desciption of what the code means. In about 50 percent of the cases it's a bad connection which is causing the failure and there are many tests to check different circuits. In order to rule out the ignitor here is a quick test you can do. Below is a picture of a breakdown of you distributor (yes the ignitor is in the distributor). Take the distributor cap off. Using a digtal volt meter check with your postive probe the black wire terminal connected to the ignition coil and ground the negative probe to a good grouns like the battery. Make sure you are getting at least 10 to 12 volts. If you are check the connection at the brown and black wire between the coil and the ignitor and make sure all is good (like good continuity) If all is good, chances are the ignitor is faulty. If you are not getting the voltage on the first test right at the black wire terminal at the coil the coil could be faulty. As I said it's a 50/50 thing on this code as far as wiring or a componant such as the coil or ignittor. I have found in the past that in most cases if say a coil or ignitor goes bad, it's just bad and you end up in a no start situation but there are those odd cases that outside temps effect everything like engine heat or a componant over heating.Hope this helps and good luck.

So good news and bad news. Bad news is the remote portion for a 1998 Cadillac Catera Key Fob requires profressional programming. We suggest using a locksmith, they should save you some money compared to the dealer.

The good news is if you need to program another transponder key, you can do that yourself. Get a spare key cut and simply follow the instructions below:

If you need to order a key or remote you can order them online and save even more money: https://www.keylessentryremotefob.com/Cadillac-Catera-Remotes-and-Keys-s/5113.htm


· Switch ignition ON with master key to be programmed
· System LED will illuminate
· After approximately 10 minutes system LED will switch OFF
· Switch ignition OFF
· Wait 5 seconds
· Switch ignition ON
· System LED will illuminate
· After approximately 10 minutes system LED will switch OFF
· Switch ignition OFF
· Wait 5 seconds
· Switch ignition ON
· System LED will illuminate
· After Approximately 10 minutes system LED will switch OFF
· Switch ignition OFF
· Wait 5 seconds
· Start engine
· New master key now programmed
· Erase stored trouble codes
· Replacement parts caan also be programmed using diagnostic equipment
· NOTE: The vehicle learns the key transponder information on the ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. Ignition must be turned OFF before attempting to start the vehicle
· Insert master key into ignition switch
· Switch ignition ON
· Switch ignition OFF
· Remove master key
· Within 10 seconds insert new key
· Switch ignition ON
· New key now programmed
· NOTE: A maximum of 10 keys can be programmed using the master key

code po690 power control module power relay sense circuit high voltage.

No this is not a timing chain
P1351 CHEVROLET - Ignition Coil Control Circuit High Voltage

Conditions for Setting P1351:

The voltage on the ignition control circuit exceeds 4.9 volts, and the engine speed is less than 250 RPM.

Bottom line?

Most likely its a bad Ignition Control Module.

The Ignition switch could help and it is an inexpensive part to try. I would also try to get hold of a scanner and see if the computer is working and showing any problem Codes.

The recoding process is different even within the same Manufacturer. Usually you have a Coded key and insert it into the Ignition, then remove it and turn the Ignition 4 times or hit the Doorlock button 4 times and insert the blank key. The Ignition imprints the blank with the computer access code.

A bad Ignition switch would prevent the Codes from going through the key. But you may have to use a Vin# if you do not have a Coded key to duplicate and you will need to go through a Dealer.

Implausible fuel volume is the code,but it most likely was set from a bad ignition switch.It has to do with the malfunction of the switch,really setting a false code,and there might be another one also,but the ignition switch will correct the problem.