Again, we replaced the original 1979 corvette engine with a freshly rebuilt 1997 5.7L chevy vortec engine. We are running a high rise carb set up in place of the original fuel injection. Installed the distributor in traditional manner and engine is running. How do we set timing as there are no advance timing marks as this engine originally had an ECM?
SOURCE: GMC 2500 P/U 350 Vortec.. Installed rebuilt
Have you checked to see if your distributor is aligned properly? I just had to change out a distributor on a 1997 GMC 3/4 ton that has the V8 Vortec in it as well and you need to pay attention to the (2) numbers around the mating surface / rim of the distributor. You should see a number 8 and a number 6. You need to find TDC on your number 1 cyl. You can either slowly crank the motor over or turn the motor over with a ratchet and socket on the bolt securing the main pully to the crank while another person places their finger over the spark plug hole and when it just starts to Stop pushing air out past your finger then stop. Is the rotor aligned with the number what ever size engine you have in your truck (i.e. 6 or 8)? If not then your timing is off. You will need to remove the distributor and rotor, then install your rotor (before re-installing the distributor) and align the rotor pointer with either the number 8 or 6 stamped on the lip of the distributor where the cap sits down and creates the seal. I have found that they run both numbers on the distributor because they use the same distributor in both the V6 and V8 Vortec motors or a least the plastic base of the distributor. There will be (2) numbers here and sometimes hard to see. Align the pointer with what size engine you have and lower the distributor down into the hole. If the end of the shaft starts to turn the rotor as it aligns with the oil pump causing the pointer to no longer be pointed at the number that indicates which engine this is being installed in then you need to remove the distributor and look down into the hole where the distributor goes in and you'll see the end of the oil pump shaft with a slot (perfect for a big flat head screwdriver) staring back up at you. You'll need to insert a long shanked large flat head screwdriver down into the hole and turn the slotted oil pump shaft until you can successfully lower the distrubutor into place and not lose your mark. I also found that you'll need to have to pointer of the rotor a bit retarted from where it is suppose to be. This is because the distributor shaft gear is swirled and will cause the rotor to turn as it finds its mark, aligns and lowers down into a seated position. When it is seated and the rotor has stopped turning it should be pointing at the indicated cylinder Stamp in the lip that is your size motor (V6 or V8). Now it should be on time. The computer will take care of advancing and retarding.
If not the timing, then I would also consider that you may have a bad crank shaft sensor. These are merley suggestions because there is no more to go on than what you've submitted.
SOURCE: barely runs , timing retarded , only runs when est bypassed
You have set the timing to zero right? Then after you hook the bypass back up what does the timing go to?
SOURCE: I have 96 gmc 350 vortec. missing really bad. Ive
ou need to check compression on all the cly. do you know which cly is dead?
SOURCE: 93 gmc sierra 5.7 liter engine, injection carb,
you say you replaced the fuse, but does the fuse have power? the gray wire at pump should have power when cranking, or for 2 seconds when turning key on. At fuel pump relay, put power onto gray wire, the pump should run if the wiring is good. if it doenst run then ck for power at fuse while power is on gray wire.
SOURCE: 1997 GMC Yukon won't start.
WHEN YOU REPLACED THE FP DID YOU OR THE DEALIERSHIP REPLACE THE FUEL FILTER MAYBE YOUR PROBLEM ....
Testimonial: "They did replace the filter but thank you very much for the tip."
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