Check engine light, sluggish, back firing

okay it sounds like you may have a fuel problem first off if you buy the very cheap gas that could be your problem you need to find a name brand station preferably mobile if you can get to it you don't have to use the premium you can use a regular use that and see what happens most of the time the problem clears up bad gas will always will always give you a hard start cold once it fires up and run it runs by Major suggestion change gas use a better high quality gasoline and you should be okay

The MIL is normally lit when the key is in on, and with the engine not started, so that doesn't seem a problem.
Put a voltmeter on the battery terminals to check the state of your battery. It should read at least 12.2 volts, 12.6 volts or better ideally, but if less than 12.0 volts it may not be strong enough to start the engine. You will need to charge up the battery in that case. The clicking noise is usually from a weak battery, or a bad cable or terminal connection, or the starter motor is at fault.

Before you can check if there is a problem with the engine running, is being "sluggish", you will first have to get it running. If your battery is good and well charged, double check your battery connections and grounds. If you get it running, the MIL should go out. If it stays lit, there is a trouble code stored, which should indicate the problem, or at least where to start looking. Good luck. If you don't have a voltmeter, maybe a friend has one. The digital multimeter used on cars are very reasonably priced.

Have you checked the ecm for trouble codes ?
The blinking light means the problem is serious enough to damage the catalytic converter.
A faulty TPS would cause the engine to be very sluggish, but not cause a miss.

is the service engine soon light on? check the air intake system an the intake manifold for vacuum leaks. also you may want to check the fuel pressure and volume to make sure it is getting enough fuel. a clogged fuel filter is a easy fix and an overlooked maintenance item that will cause the symptoms you are having.

After sitting for 2 years, the gas has moisture/water and it's pretty much not gas anymore. It's like your car needs 87 octane and you are running on 80 octane, just enough to fire off but not strong enough to to keep a good idle/firing. I would drain all the gas out and use a higher octane gas for a half of tank just to clean the lines and injectors. Fill the tank up 1/2 with high octane and use a bottle of injector cleaner. This should clear up the sluggish problem. Also it's a good idea to change the oil and run an engine cleaner through. Drain a quart of oil, and pour in the engine cleaner. Let engine run for about 5 min for oil to heat up and circulate. Drain oil and change oil filter, put in new oil.

There is no reason to guess. If the check engine light is on, take the car to an autoparts store and have them scan the computer for any fault codes that are stored there. Most parts stores will do the scan for free. Getting the codes will eliminate speculation and can save you time and money. Hope this helped and best wishes.

Have you checked the coils? It has three above the rear valve cover right?

Are you loosing power to the ecu when the car is shut down? most cars with an ECU that controls timing, fuel, or boost can be forced to relearn the car if the ECU looses power (called a "limp" mode). I'd look into this. Also are you getting any check engine lights? considering the description of the problem, this would help to diagnose. Try getting the car started and running normally, then turn the car off but do not kill the power to the car, just stop the motor from running...Fire the engine back up and try to give the car a good stomp on the gas and see if you get the same sluggish problems...my 2 cents... Good luck future auto DIY's

We had o put in two new ignition coils along wit new spark plugs and wires. This solved the problem.

the fuel filter could be clogged and put injector cleaner in the gas tank