i had the exact problem with my 96 of the same truck when i replaced my brake booster and i couldn't shift out of park. the brake switch clips on the side of the bar leading to the booster, and has a pin that connects the pedal assembly to the booster and the brake switch. i believe your problem is with that pin. i ended up putting a small ring hose clamp on the end of that pin. the way i pin pointed the problem was to turn the key to the on position and reach up and hold that assembly tight. then move the brake pedal down just a little bit and you should hear a click. that click is the park lock releasing. now let go of the assembly and wiggle it a little to loosen it back up and you probably won't hear that click. i was a really tight place to work in, but that ring hose clamp hasn't failed me in the last year and a half. hope this helps.
Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster. Use line wrenches and remove the brake lines on the master cylinder. Disconnect the electrical connector. Remove the nuts holding the master cylinder to the brake booster and remove the master cylinder. Lay it down with the line holes up to prevent leakage. The brake activator rod must be removed next---this is attached to the top of the brake pedal arm.
There are two types of brake light switches. One is mounted remotely and has a button that is depressed by the brake pedal when it is released that creates an open circuit and turns the lights off. When the brake pedal is depressed, the button is released and allowed to extend, creating a completed circuit and turning the brake lights on. These are adjustable. All that needs to be done to adjust these switches is to adjust them where they are making contact with the arm of the brake pedal when the pedal is released. The second type is a switch that is directly attached to the brake pedal where the activator rod and pedal arm are attached with a through pin.
Remove the bottom portion of the driver's side dash to gain access to the activator rod. Remove the clip or spring lock from the side of the pin holding the activator rod to the brake pedal. Disconnect the electrical connector to the brake light switch. Rotate the switch upward and dislodge the brake activator rod from the brake pedal arm. Remove the electrical switch. Using a long 3/8-inch drive extension with a swivel and a 15 mm socket, remove the four nuts under the dash on the firewall holding the brake booster to the firewall. Unplug the vacuum line to the booster and remove the vacuum booster from the firewall.
Install the new booster, keeping the brake activator rod on the inboard side of the brake pedal arm. Go under the dash and install the nuts retaining the booster to the firewall and tighten. Install the brake switch over the brake pedal. Hold the electrical end up while the activator rod is pulled and inserted over the retaining pin on the brake pedal arm.
Install the retaining clip on the retaining spring and connect the electrical connector to the switch. Install the lower dash panel. Install the vacuum hose to the brake booster. Install the master cylinder and tighten the nuts. Install the brake lines to the master cylinder and attach the electrical connector. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder and fill as necessary.
Have someone sit in the car while you loosen the front brake line on the master cylinder. Have the person helping push the brake pedal to the floor and hold it there. Once the pedal is to the floor, tighten the brake line and repeat the procedure for the rear line. Recheck the level in the master cylinder and fill with brake fluid as needed.
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Not sure I am following your question, or maybe questions. If you can not shift out of park with the key on, the brake switch on the pedal may be faulty or out of adjustment. If the warning light is on, it could be the fluid level sensor in the master cylinder, or the parking brake switch. If you have no brakes after you try bleeding the master cylinder, the rod inside the booster may not be connected correctly. If you replaced the master cylinder along with the booster, you would need to bench bleed the master before installing it in the truck.
the break light switch has a needle like rod that pushes up against a flat plastic bushing. The bushing has probably fallen out. Without the bushing the rod has nothing to push against. So, your brake light stays on. I replaced mine with a rubber press screw that fits perfectly in the small hole. Rubber press screws are generally used to secure rubber splash guards under vehicles. They push in and don't back out. Now reattach your break light switch and the rod will now have a bushing to push against.
Check that the pedal height isn't sagging due to low brake fluid level. Also check for adjustment of the brake light switch or the BPP (Brake Pedal Position) switch.
Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster. Use line wrenches and remove the brake lines on the master cylinder. Disconnect the electrical connector. Remove the nuts holding the master cylinder to the brake booster and remove the master cylinder. Lay it down with the line holes up to prevent leakage. The brake activator rod must be removed next---this is attached to the top of the brake pedal arm.
There are two types of brake light switches. One is mounted remotely and has a button that is depressed by the brake pedal when it is released that creates an open circuit and turns the lights off. When the brake pedal is depressed, the button is released and allowed to extend, creating a completed circuit and turning the brake lights on. These are adjustable. All that needs to be done to adjust these switches is to adjust them where they are making contact with the arm of the brake pedal when the pedal is released. The second type is a switch that is directly attached to the brake pedal where the activator rod and pedal arm are attached with a through pin.
Remove the bottom portion of the driver's side dash to gain access to the activator rod. Remove the clip or spring lock from the side of the pin holding the activator rod to the brake pedal. Disconnect the electrical connector to the brake light switch. Rotate the switch upward and dislodge the brake activator rod from the brake pedal arm. Remove the electrical switch. Using a long 3/8-inch drive extension with a swivel and a 15 mm socket, remove the four nuts under the dash on the firewall holding the brake booster to the firewall. Unplug the vacuum line to the booster and remove the vacuum booster from the firewall.
Install the new booster, keeping the brake activator rod on the inboard side of the brake pedal arm. Go under the dash and install the nuts retaining the booster to the firewall and tighten. Install the brake switch over the brake pedal. Hold the electrical end up while the activator rod is pulled and inserted over the retaining pin on the brake pedal arm.
Install the retaining clip on the retaining spring and connect the electrical connector to the switch. Install the lower dash panel. Install the vacuum hose to the brake booster. Install the master cylinder and tighten the nuts. Install the brake lines to the master cylinder and attach the electrical connector. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder and fill as necessary.
Have someone sit in the car while you loosen the front brake line on the master cylinder. Have the person helping push the brake pedal to the floor and hold it there. Once the pedal is to the floor, tighten the brake line and repeat the procedure for the rear line. Recheck the level in the master cylinder and fill with brake fluid as needed.
have the brake booster rod hooked up then pull it out away from the brake pedal until the pedestal is flush with the hole opening in the brake booster rod. On your brake lamp switch you have a half opening on one side,put this side towards the pedestal first then slide it down over the brake booster rod until the front closed opening on the switch lines up with the pedestal and brake booster rod hole then push the switch and booster rod towards the pedal assembly and install the push pin clip.
if you look under dashboard toward the top of the brake pedal assembly there is a little white/cream colored box mounted to the same bracket as the pedal, onec you locate this box all you have to do is turn the plastic unit 90 degrees and it will slide off the bracket, there is one electrical plugin on this switch. fairly easy job just difficult to get to
Check brake light switch. When brake pedal is pushed to take shift lever out of park,switch sends current to a magnetic lock on steering column to release from park. I have a 97 Z71 that had the same problem. I put on a new brake light switch and it took care of my problem.
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