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Anonymous Posted on Jan 18, 2018

It started to not start right away a few days ago and I just assumed I didn't have the clutch down properly as it would start right up after that. On a road trip yesterday, it became clear that there is something wrong as it took many attempts to get it started to get it home.

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Bill Boyd

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  • Toyota Master 53,816 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 18, 2018
Bill Boyd
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Probably clutch switch adjustment or failure

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jul 15, 2008

SOURCE: will not start

check plug leads for elect. leak when warm

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Anonymous

  • 64 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 06, 2009

SOURCE: 98 Corolla stalls or stumbles when cold

It sounds like you may have picked up some small debris from the bottom of the gas tank when you ran it empty. You may need to run a fuel/injector cleaning solution through the next tank of gas to clear the debris and consider changing your fuel filter too. Sea Foam is a great fuel additive and I recomment trying it full strength. Hope this helps!

tuyen bui

  • 1025 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 07, 2010

SOURCE: efi fuse short

may be the fuel pump short out.
unplug the fuel pump connector to see if the fuse still blow.
if the fuse is not blown when you try to start then the fuel pump is bad

cheap repair

  • 1565 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 14, 2011

SOURCE: my 1991 Toyota mr2 won't start. battery is fine,

check your clutch safety switch. The car will not start if the clutch in not depressed. Look under dash at the clutch pedal arm. There is a switch that looks like this:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1432921&parttype=16665&partkey=933109&a=FRc1432921k933109-1847113

It may need to be adjusted or replaced.

Anonymous

  • 4803 Answers
  • Posted on May 01, 2011

SOURCE: "Hello Guys, a few days

Well, there are a couple things going on here.
The code P0500 is a problem with your Vehicle Speed Sensor "A"
This can be caused by a couple things, however there is a software update available for your vehicle and if your computer has not been programmed with the latest update, I would not waste any time or effort on this code until it has.

Technical Service Bulletin # T-SB-0341-09 Rev 1

The other codes (P2238 and P2241) are for your Air-Fuel Ratio Sensors. P2238 is for the upstream Bank 1 sensor and P2241 is for the upstream Bank 2 sensor.

NOTE: The code description on your generic OBD scanner may say "OXYGEN SENSOR" or "O2S". but it is very important to understand that these are "AIR-FUEL RATIO" sensors - they do not work the same as a typical oxygen sensor, although the computer uses the data from these sensors for the same purposes.

These codes are pretty vague. They can be caused by either "open" or "shorted" AF+ or AF- circuits, or they can be caused by either "open" or "shorted" AF Sensor Heater circuits. Most of the time, these codes are caused by failed AF sensors. HOWEVER, since you have codes for BOTH sensors at the same time, it would be VERY WISE to verify the circuits for these sensors before replacing them - you may find just ONE shorted or open wire causing BOTH of these codes.

I personally have had really bad experiences with trying to replace these sensors with aftermarket sensors. I highly recommend that if you are going to replace them, get the parts from the dealer. They are also EXTREMELY expensive in comparison to regular oxygen sensors, so that is another reason for proper diagnosis before replacing them.

Testimonial: "Great, thank you for your response to my post. But i now have more questions: Now I know i need to upgrade my vehicle's software "

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