Draw on battery with all fuses pulled

Try unhooking the alternator and check for your draw. A diode can go bad causing a direct draw, but the alternator can still charge. I have had it happen more than once.

The next step is to pull the ASD relay and the fuel pump relay one at a time to see if the draw goes away. The ASD and fuel pump relays should only be energized with the key on for a couple of seconds, anytime the engine is cranking, or anytime the engine is running. If the draw continues than you may have a PCM issue as the only wire that does not go through the two relays but is fused bu the same fuse goes to a battery positive input to the PCM.

a word of caution. It can take a half hour or more for modules to power down. if you are not waiting at least a half hour before checking your final amp draw you may be seeing a false reading.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Hi Bobbi
A 50w Headlamp will draw 4 Amps (Ohms Law 50/12=4.1)
So... 2 Low beams will draw 8 Amps.
Obviously more for high beam and high wattage Quartz Bulbs.
That is a lot for a small switch (contacts) to handle.
This is why a lot of vehicles use a Relay to power the Headlamps.
The relay is connected directly from the Battery to the Headlamps.
The large internal contacts can handle the higher current (30A) and the dash headlight switch connects to the magnetic coil inside the relay and is only used to pull the contacts closed.
Does your circuit include a relay.? Do you hear a relay click?
simple headlight relay wiring

To assist with your troubleshooting, try disconnecting one head lamp bulb to reduce current load. Does the fuse blow?
A temporary12v circuit breaker could be substituted for the fuse until you determine the problem.


If the circuit is using a relay then there will be a fat wire going from the battery to the Relay. The fine wire on the relay input is the trigger. A 12v test lamp is really useful for troubleshooting around the car. Also a cheap multimeter. Clamp style current meter is also handy to see exactly what current is blowing the fuse

Relays

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NARVA-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-REPLACES-STANDARD-BLADE-FUSE-BATTERY-15A-AMP-12V-55715-/321234642731?hash=item4acb13a72b
There is a 10A circuit breaker also like above

Automotive Circuit Breakers Wiring Products

Hooking between the neg. post an neg. cable an pulling fuse's is not a good way to do a parasitic draw test on your vehicle . Pulling fuse's wakes up module's an you will see a draw . You need to do it non-intrusively . Your vehicle has a bunch of control modules an pulling fuse's will wake them up. Try this way .
The BEST Way TO Perform Parasitic Draw Test
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what exactly is the question ?

Try pulling relays to

Just pulling the fuses obviously isn't enough. There are many circuit breakers supplying power to various systems. You would have to have everything removed to completely remove any drain. Knowing the amount of the drain (connect an ammeter inline with one of the battery lines) would be helpful.

Yes, I suggest looking for the Headlight Relay and a Circuit Breaker. You should find the Relay in the Powerbox under the hood and the circuit breaker should be in the fuse panel.

What is happening is the contacts are overheating. Instead of blowing a fuse some models use a Circuit breaker which recycles when it cools down. You can get the same action out of a Relay that is going bad.

If this continues after you replace the parts you should test the voltage going to the headlights and check the bulb sockets for corrosion. The headlights are made so that the low beam and high beam are separate and they are not on at the same time. If both filaments were on at the same time it would overload the relays and the Circuit breaker.

You will see that the bulbs are rated with 2 numbers, like 45/65 for low and high beam. If one side shorts out it will pull an additional 65 watts. Instead of drawing 90 total on low and 130 on high for 2 headlights, it will pull 155 with 1 headlight shorted. Thats 25 watts more than the Relay or Circuit breaker is suppose to handle. After 45 minutes of this, you get the flashing.

As a rule, .1 Amps or .2 Amps max is acceptable for the car being off.

Remember that batteries last only 3 years on average, which might explain why you had to jump the car occasionally.

I think that it was clever of you to pull fuses one by one until the multimeter read lower reading.

Wiring harnesses can look like spaghetti so if the car has a short in the system, maybe taking the vehicle to an auto electric shop would aid in diagnosing the problem if the owner has trouble finding the source of the excessive draw.

Good luck on this repair.

You have a draw and a draw pulling more than a couple hundred milliamps.This will drain the battery in an objectionably short amount of time.. All the things you mentioned and more can cause this draw. The best diagnostic step towards isolating your draw is with meter that reads Volts DC or better yet a test light.(I think) ..disconnect B+ positive battery cable. Install meter or lamp in series with disconnected cable and battery post. You do have some smal draws like computer memories,clocks etc which will show a low amount of voltage hence a very dim test light. If you are drawing heavy ,obviously the meter will show a full blown 12 volts and the lamp bulb will be very bright. Remove fuses,unplug relays,dis-connect devices while watching the voltage or lamp.You should begin to isolate offending item once the circuit has been detected, Generally pulling all fuses individually will tell you at least which circuit is pulling the amps.