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It only does it at or below a half a tank of gas? I don't believe it is coincidental.It only does it at or below a half a tank of gas? I don't believe it is coincidental.
The buzzing will be consistent for some time and stop out of nowhere. There is no sound or vibration at all above the 1/2 tank. I have paid attention. I just replaced the ignition switch thinking that maybe the car was thinking the key was in and trying to start. It didn't cure the problem. Thx.The buzzing will be consistent for some time and stop out of nowhere. There is no sound or vibration at all above the 1/2 tank. I have paid attention. I just replaced the ignition switch thinking that maybe the car was thinking the key was in and trying to start. It didn't cure the problem. Thx.
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For More Info Witch INCLUDES Figure Pictures,and More Test Procedures.
ALSO PLEASE Respond and we Can Get this Taken Care of this Problem !
YOU should FIRST Locate and Remove the FUSE marked "FUEL PUMP this is #1 Fuse under the DASH ,FUEL, or FUEL RELAY. With this Fuse removed Do you hear the BUZZzzz Still ? If Not The RELAY is Probably STICKING Closed= > ON thus Buzzing Fuel Pump RELAY Circuit Troubleshooting
Check for continuity between body ground and PGM-FI main relay 7P connector terminal No.3. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and G1O1.
Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay 7P connector terminal No.7. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Go to step 5.
Check for a blown ACG S (15A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the ACG S (15A) fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the ACG S (15A) fuse.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
Measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay 7P connector terminal No.5. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Go to step 8.
Check for a blown No.1 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.1 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.1 FUEL PUMP (15A) fuse.
Shift to Park, then turn the ignition switch to the START (III) position, and measure voltage between body ground and PGM-FI main relay 7P connector terminal No.2. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Go to step 10.
Check for a blown No.13 STARTER SIGNAL (7.5A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse blown? YES - Repair the short in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.13 STARTER SIGNAL (7.5A) fuse. NO - Repair the open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the No.13 STARTER SIGNAL (7.5A) .
Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay 7P connector terminal No.1 and PCM connector terminal A15. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 14. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the PCM (A15).
Measure voltage between the PCM connector terminals B1 and B2, and between B9 and B2. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 17. NO - Check for an open in the wires between the PGM-FI main relay and the PCM (B1, B9). If the wires are OK, replace the PGM-FI main relay.
Turn the ignition switch OFF, then ON (II) again.
Measure voltage between PCM connector terminals A15 and B2 within the first 2 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON (II). Is there 1.0 V or less? YES -PGM-FI main relay may be faulty; go to step 19. NO - Substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. If prescribed voltage is now available, replace the original PCM.
Connect battery power to PGM-FI main relay 7P connector terminal No.2 and connect ground to PGM-FI main relay 7P connector terminal No.1. Then check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay 7P connector terminals No.5 and No.4. NOTE: Use the terminal number shown. Ignore the terminal numbers molded into the relay. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 21. NO - Replace the PGM-FI main relay and reset.
Connect battery power to PGM-FI main relay 7P connector terminal No.5, and connect ground to PGM-FI main relay 7P connector terminal No.3. Then check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay 7P connector terminals No.7 and No.6. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 22. NO - Replace the PGM-FI main relay and reset.
Connect battery power to PGM-FI main relay 7P connector terminal No.6, and connect ground to PGM-FI main relay 7P connector terminal No.1. Then check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay 7P connector terminals No.5 and No.4. Is there continuity? YES - The PGM-FI main relay is OK. NO - Replace the PGM-FI main relay and retest.
If this Problem is Determined on the Fuel Gauge Reading @ 1/2 or less Level,
This Shows that the Fuel PUMP itself is Causing it Because It Should NEVER
Make an Abnormal Noise such as A Buzz And if it ONLY Happens @ a Certain FUEL LEVEL
Well Fuel Pump Is Suspect to me Here Even if It Were a NEW PUMP, I would Suspect it.
Would not Surprise me if the Relay May have Sustained Damage from the Malfunctioned FUEL PUMP.
PLEASE Respond As to the Age of Fuel Pump and any other Info Pertaining to this Condition.
Thank You For your Patience
Fuel Pump Replacement Just in Case
Remove the spare tire lid. Remove the access panel from the floor. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the fuel tank unit 5P connector. Remove the fuel fill cap. Relieve fuel pressure. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel tank unit. Remove the bolts (A), and the fuel pump assembly (B).
Remove the bracket (A), the fuel filter (B), the fuel gauge sending unit (C), the hose (D), and the wire harness (E). When connecting the fuel pump, make sure the connection is secure and the suction filter (H) is firmly connected to the fuel pump (I). Install the tank unit in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket, then check these items:
When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the terminal (F) is firmly locked into the place. Check that the tab of the clamp (G) does not interfere with the wire harness. Do not push the lower part of suction filter. When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively.
If this Problem is Determined on the Fuel Gauge Reading @ 1/2 or less Level,
This Shows that the Fuel PUMP itself is Causing it Because It Should NEVER
Make an Abnormal Noise such as A Buzz And if it ONLY Happens @ a Certain FUEL LEVEL
Well Fuel Pump Is Suspect to me Here Even if It Were a NEW PUMP, I would Suspect it.
Would not Surprise me if the Relay May have Sustained Damage from the Malfunctioned FUEL PUMP. PLEASE Respond As to the Age of Fuel Pump and any other Info Pertaining to this Condition.
Thank You For your Patience
Fuel Pump Replacement Just in Case Remove the spare tire lid.
Remove the access panel from the floor.
Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the fuel tank unit 5P connector.
Remove the fuel fill cap.
Relieve fuel pressure.
Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel tank unit.Remove the bolts (A), and the fuel pump assembly (B). Remove the bracket (A), the fuel filter (B), the fuel gauge sending unit (C), the hose (D), and the wire harness (E).
When connecting the fuel pump, make sure the connection is secure and the suction filter (H) is firmly connected to the fuel pump (I).
Install the tank unit in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket, then check these items:
When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the terminal (F) is firmly locked into the place.
Check that the tab of the clamp (G) does not interfere with the wire harness.
Do not push the lower part of suction filter.
When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to bend or twist it excessively.
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you may only hear it when it is that low. till it hits half a tank the fuel pump is covered be fuel. below a half a tank no fuel to insulate the noise. fill it up and listen carefully to see if you can hear the pump running. hope this helps mikeyou may only hear it when it is that low. till it hits half a tank the fuel pump is covered be fuel. below a half a tank no fuel to insulate the noise. fill it up and listen carefully to see if you can hear the pump running. hope this helps mike
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Could be a couple of things but try the crank sensor or the cam sensor if not it could be The iacv (intake air control valve ) these are some of the common issues with this vehicle. Good luck I hope this helps
Under the left side of your back seat is a fuse / relay box . When you first turn the key on the fuel pump relay turns on for a few seconds to prime the fuel system . That relay is in that fuse / relay box ,that is what your hearing . Does the vehicle start an run good , no problems other then the buzzing sound .The vehicle battery is also under the rear seat on the right side . How To Locate and disconnect Battery Buick Lesabre Pontiac Bonneville 00...
Find another relay with an identical part number(maybe the fuel pump relay)& swap it in place of the suspect EEC relay.See if the buzzing quits.If it does,the EEC relay is bad.There might be a ac WOT cutout relay or fan relay with an identical part number that you can use instead of the fuel pump relay.The fuel pump relay & EEC relay will both have to be in place in order for the engine to start.A relay should click when you turn the key on,but it shouldn't make a buzzing noise.BTW-the EEC relay is energized when you turn the key on and then it supplies ignition on power to the computer,injectors,solenoids and fuel pump relay.Therefore, if the EEC relay is defective, these components are Not going to work.If you don't hear the fuel pump prime when the key is first turned on,that's a sign the EEC relay is bad.One of the injector wires should have battery voltage, if the EEC relay is powering up.If your vehicle doesn't have a matching relay to the EEC relay(except for the fuel pump relay)just pull the FP relay out and slide it into place of the suspect EEC relay for testing purposes.If the buzzing noise stops,then replace the relay because there's no way to test if the car will start without having both relays in place.
Could be fuel delivery issue. Does the car have enough fuel in the tank? Check that the air filter is clean and if it is, than check the fuel pump. Do this by turning the key to the on position and listening for a buzzing sound for a few secconds near the back of the vehicle. If you hear the buzz, than the fuel pump is fine. If all this fails to help, try and have the fuel filter replaced. Good luck!
You need to check the fuel pressure. Can your hear the fuel pump buzzing? Remove your gas cap and have a helper turn the key to the run position. With your ear close to the open tank you should hear the pump buzzing. If not you have a fuel problem. Could be the pump, pump relay, or wiring. If you hear it buzzing you still need to check the fuel pressure because a pump can buzz but still not be making enough pressure. That is where I would start.
no. the noise you're not hearing is the fuel pump. When u turn ur key on you should hear a buzzing like sound from the rear of the vehicle. If not, and ur car don' start, probably fuel pump. Just to verify the faulty fuel pump, have an assistant open the fuel tank cover and remove the gas cap itself. With you inside turn just the key on, and have your assistant listen for the "buzzing" or "hummin" sound. if nothing there, then faulty fuel pump. If noise is present, then perhaps you have a different problem like nothing is reaching the engine, fuel wise. Like a plugged fuel filter. when replacing the fuel pump, ALWAYS do the new strainer as installing the old one could cause a whole new set of problems and eventually wipe out the new one as well *RULE OF THUMB, WITH NEW FUEL PUMP, REPLACE FUEL FITLER.* this will be easier on the pump output to the engine. good luck.!
When you turn the key to the "run" position, listen and see if you can hear a buzzing noise coming from the under the bed. This is your fuel pump buzzing for 2-3 seconds. If it isnt buzzing, you most likely have a faulty fuel pump. If it does buzz, check the fuel pressure. There is a schrader valve on the fuel line under the hood near the back of the intake manifold. You will need a fuel pressure gauge to check the pressure. If it doesnt build 50-60 psi, it will most likely, again, need a fuel pump.
It only does it at or below a half a tank of gas? I don't believe it is coincidental.
The buzzing will be consistent for some time and stop out of nowhere. There is no sound or vibration at all above the 1/2 tank. I have paid attention. I just replaced the ignition switch thinking that maybe the car was thinking the key was in and trying to start. It didn't cure the problem. Thx.
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