2001 Mazda MX-5 Miata Logo

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Anonymous Posted on Apr 05, 2014

2001 miata code 304

Engine code 304 keeps returning, replaced spark plugs, wiring and coil problem still hits

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 96 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 10, 2008

SOURCE: 2001 mazda protege will not start

well, with all that you have changed the only two possible things that are left PCM and the ECM....

Do you have an alarm system on this vehicle? If you purchased this car second hand it may have something that is inhibiting the engine from firing. From what you have told us here that would be where I would start looking.

I really hope this is helpfull

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Aug 16, 2008

SOURCE: 1999 Mazda Miata Problem

I have driven Mazdas for 25 years, and am sharing these experiences in case they can help anyone.  I had two RX-7s and then bought a 2004 Miata a year ago.  The Miata really was brand new, a showroom car with minimal miles on it--truly mint, and a true dream come true.  
It ran perfectly but the 'check engine' light kept coming on.  The owner's manual lists four possible reasons:  1) fuel tank level being very low or approaching empty; 2) electrical system has a problem; 3) emission control system has a problem; and 4) fuel-filler cap is missing or not tightened securely.  
Given the car's brand new condition, and since it had a full tank of gas courtesy of the Mazda dealer, I could rule out 1 through 3. That left the fuel-filler (gas) cap.   I had driven the car minimally the first month, so the gas tank was still almost full when I took the car back to the Mazda dealer.  When I was instructed about the importance of making sure the gas cap was secured tightly, I said, "Interesting you should mention that, since I haven't touched it since I bought the car, so if it isn't properly affixed, guess who did it?" and laughed.  I asked if it was a "software" glitch between the updated software used in the shop's system checking equipment and the fact my car was three years old. That resulted in a stunned look.  I barely had finished a small cup of coffee when the manager came to tell me everything was fine.  The answer about what was the problem was vague, at best.  Zoom-Zoom, off I went, and the 'check engine' light hasn't appeared since then.  I do find the gas cap difficult to manage, especially in the winter.  
The Bose CD player died last week, but that's a different problem!  G-R-O-A-N.  
I am a huge fan of Mazda.  Of course the RX-7s had the rotary engine and the Miata does not, but there are similarities.  These cars dislike condensation.  I am in the northeast where winter temperatures reach minus ten or lower, and where summers are very humid.  
I went through the spark plug changes and all else with the first RX-7 when it seemed to have a problem misfiring, or not making a solid connection.  It had a manual choke, so starting it was easy, but after it was warmed up and ready for takeoff, it would perform as if it had a short or dirty plugs or something.  
I was religious about having the oil changed every 2,500 to 3,000 miles, very important. When it seemed the car was misfiring or just not connecting on some level, and everything checked out perfectly mechanically and electrically, I decided to try two things.  First, I only used the best gas.  Expensive, yes, but the car performed better and got better mileage.  Second, I always kept a bit of dry gas in the tank, all year round.  When I had the second RX-7,  I lived near a lake and there always was heavy mist and condensation.  If I kept dry gas in the RX-7s, they didn't have a problem.  If I forgot, the response was chugga-chugga-chugga, cough, spit, hesitate, misfire, and generally behaving like a misfit.      I should stress I ONLY am talking about dry gas, sold everywhere in the northeast during the winter, even drug stores and supermarkets.  There are tons of additives on the market that claim to do this and that and I never have used any of them.  
We love these cars because we feel one with them.  They are so beautifully engineered, we notice every nuance, every single thing that seems a tiny bit off.  The best advice I can give anyone about these great cars is to trust that knowledge, and to be persistent if you know something is not quite right, no matter what someone tells you to the contrary.  I wish everyone as much joy as my Mazdas have brought me . . . now, on to that Bose problem . . . how I landed on this web site in the first place.

Anonymous

  • 150 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 01, 2009

SOURCE: 2001 MPV Runs Rough at Idle and Low end Throttle

This could be a bad fuel injector. Lean implies low fuel to the cylinder which will cause a misfire.

Anonymous

  • 150 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 01, 2009

SOURCE: 2001 MPV Runing Rough at Idle & low end Throttle

the lean condition is the big clue here it indicates a lack of fuel which is causing the mis-fire on #3. I would suspect a fuel injector is clogged or not getting a pulse from the PCM. ( pulse is the electronic signal)

Anonymous

  • 8 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 19, 2009

SOURCE: cannot start 1993 mazda miata

you may want to check your timing

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Po300 code

If the problem isn't fixed the error code will keep returning. You'll need to get the ignition system checked from the spark plugs back over, (plug leads, ignition coil, etc). The injectors might need checking as well.
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Check engine light on . will not pass DEQ code po 304

hoopers51, Code 304 is for a misfire detected on cylinder #4. Check the wire and the spark plug for that cylinder. Make sure that there is no corrosion in the boots of the wire and see if the spark plug is fouled up, or wet with gas. If the plug is fouled (a normal firing plug will have a grayish color to it) clean it and replace it. If the wire is bad then replace it. Make sure that there is no corrosion on the coil terminal when you pull the wire off. You might want to test the coil if you have an inline spark tester. These can be purchased very cheaply at any auto part store. Also what you can try is to remove the plug on the #4 injector when the engine is running. DO NOT try this with the spark plug wire. (Do this when the engine is off) When you disconnect the injector you will hear a misfire if it is working properly and this will tell you that the injector is not the problem. If there is no change then you should check for power to the injector. (once again, when the engine is running) The injector on that cylinder may be weak and is leaking. This will dump too much fuel into that cylinder causing the misfire and you will have a wet spark plug. All of these, a bad wire, a bad spark plug, a leaky injector or one with no power, or a bad coil will cause a misfire and will increase the HC's on an emission test. Good luck with this.
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P301 Code on 2001 Ford Taurus SOHC (not FFL) with 253K miles. Replaced plugs and wires with Bosch Platinum +4 plugs and Motorcraft wire set. P301 returned almost immediately. Engine performance extremely...

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Code po304 #4 cylinder mis fire

ck if you have spark at the coil for that cylinder. check the plug wire closely. if it has spark at the coil, then replace all the spark plug wires.
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Can someone tell me what check engine code P0 304 means?

You have a misfire on cylinder 4 that is serious enough to store a code. If the check engine lamp flashes while you drive, it is worse, and is CATALYST DAMAGE level. This can be caused by loss of spark, loss of fuel, vacuum leak, wiring, and a dozen others. Check if spark reahes the plug, check for injector pulse, check for carbon tracking or fouling on the plug...work your way up.
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Engine misses at 35 mph code po 304 coil pack plug wire replaced

Information courtesy of http://obd-codes.com

A code P0304 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
  • Faulty spark plug or wire
  • Faulty coil (pack)
  • Faulty oxygen sensor (s)
  • Faulty fuel injector
  • Burned exhaust valve
  • Faulty catalytic converter(s)
  • Running out of fuel
  • Poor compression
  • Defective computer
Possible Solutions If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors.

Hope this helps with your problem. Best of luck.
Greg
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#4 cyl misfires/code 304

P-0304 indicates number 4 cylinder misfire. Are you using Toyota parts dept spark plugs? More often than not, non-toyota plugs make the v-6s run poor, right out of the box....
Try this:With the engine running, pull the connector wire off of the #4 injector. Note to see if there is any change with the idle quality. No change? You may have a bad injector.
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