First -for it to record a fault the car has to be run for some time --15 minutes or 50 miles because intermittent faults are not always recorded
as an example consider this
on your phone you have a pin number
now if you press the incorrect numbers 2 times nothing happens and you can start again next day
( in the car it is like you pressing the numbers 2 times = no code)
however press the incorrect number 3 or more times , you need a PUK code to get back in
( in the car pressing the wrong number too many times = to a code now being reported)
carefully record when it stalls ( at lights with the foot on the brake), changing down ratios when slowing down) surging on acceleration--rpm reading is critical or deceleration --road speed and engine rpm correlation
fuel level situation when it occurs ( full , partially full or close to empty)
from you statement, I would suggest that you put a can of quality injector cleaner in the tank on filling for a couple of fills as it indicates an injector/s problem and that will not record a code unless a cylinder misfires for a set period of time
it is easier to do the simple things first then have the codes read by an accredited service shop that has experience on your make of car
SOURCE: 2000 mazda miata r&r throttle body
se if egr is controled by vacium or electric
if it is by vacium then locate the egr solenoide and make sure it has vacium in one hose w/ engine runing if it does then replace solenoide
SOURCE: engine light on 2002 mazda protege is on even after changing o2
Try cleaning the Mass Airflow (MAF) Sensor. My 2002 Protege check engine light came on and it started stalling at stoplights if I didn't keep the engine revved a little. Manager at AutoZone checked the computer code for the light (P0171?), and it said it was running lean. He suggested I try the MAF sensor cleaner they have ($6.99) rather than replacing the 02 sensor, etc.; it made a *significant* difference. (I think I need to do it again to get it totally cleaned out, but the can is for at least 4 cleanings.) The MAF sensor is the large component that air goes through right after the air filter. If you don't have the repair manual for the car (search online for PDF's), you search for the part online to see what it looks like. Mainly, it's a tube about 4" across with some small wire things inside. The cleaner can said it was a 10 minute job; mine took 20 minutes, but only because the tube leading from the MAF sensor to whatever is next (a kind of bent elbow tube, with a couple of accordian-style ripples) tore, and I had to duct-tape that up to seal it. (Still haven't gotten that replaced - found them online for ~$40. Maybe this weekend...)
SOURCE: 2007 mazda cx7
They're charging you for it? Since your car's only 2 years old, they should be covering it under warranty. Timing Chains don't break normally, and when they do, usually it's on a much older car. Mazda should be covering the costs for this under the power train warranty (which is good for 48 months or 50,000 miles, whichever comes first)
SOURCE: No spark in '05 Mazda 6
any wires not plugged into there respective places, any sensors the old engine had that this one don't, did you use the old distributor for your coil setup,I think it might be, luck
SOURCE: P0335
Hi, you can fix it by reading the article found here on P0335 - http://www.obd-codes.com/p0335
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