4x4 transfer case leaks

No this is not a related problem.
To find what is blowing fuse out need to use ohm meter see which side short is on at fuse then trace to find short to ground.

Make sure all the fuses are good on the circut.look in owners manual under (fuses)..I have also found bad/cracked/leaking vacuum hoses going to the actuators

try checking fluid level constently and maby check the pressure my 2000 silverado did that but it was cuz i put a new trani in and one of the trani lines popped off the fitting so u gota make sure u have no leaks first off

The pilot bearing is pressed into the flywheel and you need a pilot bearing/bushing puller. Some A/P stores will rent it to you for free (deposit). the throwout bearing is held onto the clutch fork normally by clips. Sometimes you have to take the "fork" out to get the bearing off.

Make sure to note how "deep' the pilot bearing/bushing is so that when you install the new one it is set at the right depth.

for this you need 2 people. one person gets inside and SLOWLY allows the vehicle to drive forward while another is crouched near the front drivers side wheel (assuming thats the side the shaft comes to the front axle), in 2WD, the front drive shaft should not be spinning. have them press 4X4 and then look for drive shaft rotation. if the shaft DOES spin, the problem is in your hubs. if it does not spin, the problem is in the transfer case or the circuit connecting the button to it. i'm not sure about the second part, but if it IS the hubs, the problem is more than likely a vacuum leak. (basing this off of an 03 f250 4x4, but its the same principle) there is a small rubber hose that connects near the wheel on the axle or near the axle. be sure not to confuse it with a brake line. find this line on each side and pull it off (replace afterward) and put your finger on the end and be sure there is a fair amount of suction when vehicle is running and 4x4 is engaged (recommend turning wheel all the way to one side or the other OR take it off entirely, but do not take it out of park obviously) if there is no suction or very weak suction, then there is a leak somewhere along the hose and it must be found and the offending part replaced.

Fab only gave part of an answer. Check the vacuum lines on the driverside firewall. Also check your heater/AC unit make sure the air deflector will change from defrost to vent. If it stays on defrost no matter where you put the knob then you have a disconnected or leaking vacuum line to the dash. If that works and you don't see any open hoses then remove the battery and battery tray. You'll find the actuator there. Remove the vaccum line that goes to it, connect the battery or jumper cables so that you can start the engine. Put it in 4HI and feel for a vacuum at the line. If you do then put it on the actuator and see if it pulls on the cable. If there is no vacuum at that line then the switch at the transfer is bad and isn't sending vacuum to the actuator. If you do have vacuum and the cable didn't pull then change the actuator.

remove drive shafts remove cross member, and transfer case mount remove transfer case then remove tranny there are 6 bell housing bolts that hold tranny in 15 mm i think and 2 trany lines if its auto

well it depends on where it is leaking from if it is leaking from the pan in the seal area replace the seal and you might as well change the trani fluid and filter just to be on the safe side. If you cant find where it is leaking get a can of Gunk engine cleaner and clean the trani off nice and good the look for fresh leaks after driving a bit. If it looks like its a cracked case then you might as well just drop it and replace it. But the first thing is to pin point where it is leaking from. It could also be leaking from the trani fluid cooling lines.

1994 is the same as 1997. parts are interchangeable