Only when I'm accelerating do I notice a clicking sound in the engine. I even parked the car and open the hood and tried to accelerate and still heard the clicking noise. It's not loud or boisterous, but it's a gentle clicking. What should I do?
Start with premium gas or injector cleaner, could be a low octane ping. this may be hard to diagnose with out hearing the noise so the other thing i would have you do is remove the belts and run the engine. sometimes when a bearing in an alternator, idler pulley, a/c compressor or belt tensioner goes bad they can make a clicking noise. try to listen if the noise is coming from the belt area, the transmission area or some other spot. spin all the pulleys with the engine off and wiggle them to see if any are bad
Testimonial: "I made an error. The only time the noise is heard is when I'm accelerating. It's like a rattling noise. I noticed the more I accelerate, the more I can hear it. When it's parked I only hear the sound if I rev it too fast. I hear it in or near the engine."
I use 87 gas in my car since she has 144,500 on the dash. Should I upgrade?
Also, I notice a heap of what looks like rusted water around the battery area. I know it has something to do with the radiator and I must flush the radiator. Could this be contributing to the sounds? It doesn't overheat, but there's a light smell coming from the vents and it smells like the rusted water in the radiator.
×
SOURCE: Water sounds under hood when you first accelerate
Thank you for allowing me to assist you with your issue.
Since you have described that there was a buildup of leaves under your hood, my experience here indicates that the "cowl drains" are also plugged up with debris. The "cowl" is where the air enters the heater box intake (this is the area under the hood, in front of the windshield, with a black screen-looking thingy under the wipers). Since air has to get in here, water & debris can also get in. There are drain areas on both sides of the cowl (in the corners) to eliminate water from building up in the cowl area. Try this: Take a bucket of water, and dump it under the windshield area where the screen is on the cowl panel. Look behind each of the front tires for water draining onto the ground. You should see a very steady stream of water on both sides. If not, you may have to take a garden hose & spray vigorously until the debris is carried thru. You could also take off the wipers and the plastic cowl panel for easier access to the corners where the drains are blocked. In any case, a large volume of water will usually make its way thru the blockage. This will cure your issue. Please repost if you have any further questions, or need additional assistance; glad to be of service to you.
SOURCE: 1985 Toyota Camry sluggish acceleration
check the fuel filter and when was the last time you had a tranny service done and a tune up also check the drivebelt
SOURCE: bogs down upon acceleration
You have coil over spark plug ignition and one of your coils is bad.You need to find the bad coil and replace it.
SOURCE: I have a 2001 toyota camry. I hear a ticking noise
depending on what engine, you may have adjustible lifters. aIf it doesn't you may have a lifter bleeding down. you may want to try a bottle of lucas additive your next oil chang.
Testimonial: "thanks"
SOURCE: 2009 toyota corolla hesitates when accelerating.
If you own a 2004, 2005, 2006 or 2007 Toyota Corolla and your car hesitates when you accelerate or it hesitates when driving, you should try the solution described here. Below is a list of the behavior your car may show that tells that you should try this procedure before going to a mechanic or repair shop.
You should know that while those problems can be caused by several issues, including low quality or altered fuel or even a loosely tighten fuel cap, the most common cause is a dirty MAF flow meter sensor.
The MAF sensor (Mass Air Flow Meter Sensor) is in charge of detecting how much air (in mass, not volume) is coming in to the engine, so the ecm computer can calculate the amount of fuel to be injected.
Some times this sensor gets contaminated by lots of microscopic debris that scape the air filter and accumulate on its sensing parts over time. The resulting effect is that the MAF flow meter sensor gets less "sensible" and detects less air than it is currently entering the engine. The reaction of the ecm computer will be to inject less fuel to keep the air fuel balance, taking as reference the false reading of the MAF flow meter sensor. This will produce a too-lean mixture, which is responsible of the hesitation, the loss in power and the check engine light.
If your car engine, besides the hesitation, is also producing knocking or engine pinging at high loads, like when going up through a hill, it is attributed to this too-lean condition.
Before going to an auto parts store or to a mechanic to fix the problem, you should try fixing it your self. If the problem is a dirty MAF flow meter sensor, the solution is to clean it, plain and simple. That may save you some money that a mechanic will charge for cleaning it (you could do the same) or for replacing the part when most of the times it is not damaged, just dirty or contaminated
326 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×