"cornering ability disabled"

in stability in corners can be from several reasons
The first is the quality of tires in use as all stability feelings are generated by the tire profile, tire pressure and side wall profile and the quality of the tire (for example a 195 -75 r15 tire will feel loose compared to a 195-25r15 tire which has small side wall dimension and so sits better in the corners )
Next is the condition of the shock absorber, worn out , old or not of good quality manufacturer ( shock absorbers are design to take the rebound out of springs and suspension movement and if they are of inferior quality or worn out , instead of allowing the body to roll slowly , it feels like it will fall over )
Next is the use of a stabilizer bar front and rear as this is what keeps the car feeling level on the road when cornering ( if the stabilizer bar is too thin in section it torques to easily and the movement of the center of gravity is not properly controlled and so the body leans too much instead of sitting flat)
Suspension parts , ball joints , struts , steering rod ends , bad rubbers all add to a bad feeling
another reason could be a wheel alignment or loose wheel bearings ( steering tends to dart and feel out of control when cornering)
Many cars are designed with "soft" suspension to enhance the driving experience but this type of suspension will give the feeling of uncertainty when cornering ( like being on a water filled mattress)
To get a cost of the suspension up grade you first have to know what is the reason for the bad feeling
I would suggest a full safety inspection by an accredited specialist suspension shop ( Pedders or the like ) and then a quote on the modifications that will improve drivability and cornering
a job done professionally will be a safe and legal job

this is for the base model

FUSE PANEL IDENTIFICATION (1983-90 LINCOLN TOWN CAR) The fuse panel is located in the instrument panel to the left of the steering column. To expose fuse panel, remove lower steering column finish panel.

Fuse & Circuit Breaker Identification

· 1 - 15 Amp Stoplights, Hazard Warning Lights, Speed Control Module, Trailer Tow Relays, Cornering Light Relay (1983-89)
· 2 - 8.25 Amp (Circuit Breaker) Windshield Wiper/Washer
· 3 - Blank
· 4 - 15 Amp Taillights, Side Marker, License Light, Parking & Coach Lights, Cluster Illumination, Trailer Tow Relay
· 5 - 15 Amp Turn Signal & Back-Up Lights, Trailer Tow Relay, Cornering Light Relays, Heated Rear Window Relay, Rear Defrost (1988-90), A/C Clutch & ATC Module (1990), Load Leveling (1990)
· 6 - 20 Amp Heated Rear Window Control, Speed Control Module & Clock Display, Illuminated Entry Module, Power Window & Police Accy Relays, Fuel Filler Door Release (1983-87), A/C Clutch & Cornering Lights (1983-89), Deck Lid Release (1987-90), Tripminder
· 7 - 10 Amp Daytime Running Light Resistor (1990)
· 8 - 15 Amp Dome LP-Clock, Key Warning Chimes & Electric Mirrors, Courtesy & Visor Mirror Lights, Autolight & Illuminated Entry Modules, Tripminder, Electronic Radio Memory, Trunk & Underhood Lights
· 9 - 15/30 Amp Heater Blower (15 Amp), AC/ATC Blower (30 Amp)
· 10 - Blank
· 11 - 20 Amp Radio & Power Antenna, CB Radio
· 12 - 20 Amp Door Cigarette Lighters, Power Seats & Door Locks (30 Amp), Tailgate Power Window (1983-89)
· 13 - 5 Amp Illuminated Outside Thermometer, Instrument Panel Lights
· 14 - 20/25 Amp (Circuit Breaker) Flash-To-Pass, Sun Roof, Power Windows
· 15 - 10 Amp Taillights, Parking, Side Marker/Coach, License Lights
· 16 - 20 Amp Horn & Front Cigarette Lighter
· 17 - 15 Amp Electronic Cluster, Message Center
· 18 - 10 Amp Warning Indicator Lights, Throttle Solenoid Positioner, Low Fuel Module & Autolight System, Dual Timer Buzzer & Electronic Chimes, Electronic Message Center

with a car like that i'd go straight to a beamer garage !

The corning light only works when the turn signal is on is normal.
What are you talking about with an exterior warning light ? The light on the dash that tells you one of the exterior lamps is not working ?

if it sounds like a clicking noise, it could be the rear sway bar links. or the rear exhaust bracket. both common problems with volvos

The fuse panel is located underneath the dash, to the left of the steering column, next to the emergency brake pedal. You need to remove the under-dash insulation to access some parts of the fuse panel.


If it doesn't have a diagram inside the box, here's one I found online: http://www.coolcats.net/tech/reference/images/fusepanel.jpg


1 15A Lt. Blue Stop Lamps, Hazard Warning Lamps, Speed Control, Cornering Lamp Relays 2 6A - CB - Windshield Wiper/Washer Pump 3

Spare - Not Used 4 15A Lt. Blue Taillamps, Parking Lamps, Side Marker Lamps, Instrument Cluster Illumination, License Lamps, A/C and Heater Illumination, Radio Illumination, Digital Clock Illumination, Autolamp Relay 5 15A Lt. Blue Turn Signal Lamps, Electronic Day/Night Mirror, Lighted Vanity Mirrors *, Backup Lamps, Illuminated Entry, Keyless Entry, Cornering Lamps 6 20A Yellow Rear Defrost Timer, Chime, Back-Up Lamps, Cornering Lamps, Rear Reading Lamps, Trunklid Release, Digital Clock Display, Illuminated Entry, Anti-Theft Module, Turbo Buzzer 7 15A Lt. Blue Fog Lamps (Turbo Only) 8 15A Lt. Blue Courtesy Lamps, Key Warning Buzzer, Illuminated Entry Module, Glove Box Lamp, Door Lock Relays, Radio Memory, Cluster Memory, Outside Mirrors, Tripminder Module, Analog Clock, Anti-Theft Relay 9 30A Lt. Green A/C Heater Blower Motor 10 20A - CB - Horn, Cigar Lighter, Fuel Filler Door, Flash-to-Pass, Speed Control 11 20A Yellow Radio, Tape Player, Premium Sound Amp, Power Antenna, Graphic Equalizer 12 20A - CB - Power Seats, Power Locks, Keyless Entry 13 5A Tan Instrument Cluster Illumination, Radio, Climate Control 14 20A - CB - Power Windows, Power Moonroof 15 10A Red Taillamps, Rear Side Markers, License Lamps, Electoluminescent Coach Lamps 16 4A Yellow Electronic ATC 17 15A Lt. Blue Electronic Cluster, Tripminder Display, Fuel Gauge (non-electronic cluster), A/C Clutch, Speed Control Module, Graphic Warning Display Module, Electronic Blower Speed Controller 18 10A Red Warning Indicator Lamps, Autolamp System, Throttle Position Sensor, Low Fuel Module, Dual Timer Chime, Tachometer, Washer Fluid Level Indicator

have a suspension specialist shop check the rear suspension bushes for failure
have the wheel alignment for the rear done as well
other items to check are wheel bearings , shock absorbers and body alignment ( possible accident damage )

You might check the courtesy cornering lights that illuminate and do not blink. These go on to shine on the front corners of the car. Since they use electric when the blinkers work, it may make the blinkers work faster if the cornering bulb is burned out. You probably are not noticing that the cornering light is not on.

ABS control unit recognizes system related problems and causes ABS warning light to come on and stay on under any of following conditions:

• ABS pump runs longer than 2 minutes.
• Vehicle is driven with parking brake on longer than 30 seconds.
• One rear wheel is locked.
• Wheel speed sensor does not transmit a signal.
• Vehicle is driven on extremely rough road.
• Low battery voltage.
• Operation time of solenoid valves exceeds a specified value and control unit indicates an open circuit in solenoid circuit.
• Output signals from control unit are not transmitted to solenoid valves.
• Temporary loss of traction due to excessive cornering speed or starting from stuck condition (mud, snow or sand).

I had the brake light switch replaced by a local dealer. Cost was $140 and it fixed the problem. Have driven the car for two weeks since and no lights and all systems normal.