If you know what codes are set when the check engine light came on, can you list them?
Testimonial: "Husband left paperwork in car (it's now sitting at dealership) :("
P2647
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SOURCE: My Honda Element 2008 has a VSA Warning light and
It may be as simple as your oil condition or oil level. If you have poor oil in your engine the VTEC system will not operate properly and when RPMs reach 2800 or so it will buck. If everything checks okay with the oil have the code checked for your check engine light/VSA light.
SOURCE: Low idle/stalling with new timing belt on 1999 Honda CR-v
The engine is a twin cam, one of the cams is not lined up properly. Obiviously the car was running fine before the t/belt replacement, Something the mechanic did is the cause. It is very common with this engine for this to happen. The timing belt covers need to be removed, and the cam gear alignment needs to be checked. Both cam gears have an "UP" mark at the top, and slash marks that should be level with the head when on TDC. If all the marks are lined up, I would have them perform a cylinder leakdown check to see if there are any bent valves. Another way to check the valves is to remove the valve cover and check for very loose valve adjustment. If any valves are bent they won't close all the way causing a gap in the adjustment, and poor performance. Unfortunately the dealership should have found this right away. If I remember correctly the rear cam is off one tooth, retarding the cam timing.
Let me know what they find, Honda Al
SOURCE: brand new 2010 Honda odyssey Touring within 40
I can’t be much help on this one (too new for my experience), but your manual will say this (which probably isn’t all that helpful either).
The vehicle stability assist (VSA) system helps to stabilize the vehicle during cornering if the vehicle turns more or less than desired. It also assists you in maintaining traction while accelerating on loose or slippery road surfaces. It does this by regulating the engine’s output and by selectively applying the brakes.
When VSA activates, you may notice that the engine does not respond to the accelerator in the same way it does at other times. There may also be some noise from the VSA hydraulic system. You will also see the VSA activation indicator blink.
The VSA system cannot enhance the vehicle’s driving stability in all situations and does not control your vehicle’s entire braking system. It is still your responsibility to drive and corner at reasonable speeds and to leave a sufficient margin of safety.
On touring models you will also see a ‘‘CHECK VSA SYSTEM’’ message on the multiinformation display if there is a problem with the VSA system.
Without VSA, your vehicle still has normal braking and cornering ability, but it does not have VSA traction and stability enhancement.
The VSA system automatically turns on every time you start the engine, even if you turned it off the last time you drove the vehicle.
I’d get on the Honda people about the problem, especially since you just got the car. I would think that the alarming sounds you are hearing have to do with the unit working the brakes when it shouldn't be, but that's a guess.
Hope this helps some.
SOURCE: Check Engine code: P1751 D4 code:
Hello alex, You said " Key conditions I described like e.g. "cold engine" would probably eliminate conditions 4) and 5) or I cannot understand how PCM or hydraulic control can be affected by a cold engine?" O.K. One way a cold engine or lets say, "cold oil" can effect hydraulic controls is, cold oil is thicker oil and "old" cold oil is sticky. This can and does cause things to stick or work slow enough to seem inoperative (in the cold). Now if this was my car I would start by checking for loose or broken wires, at or going to any controls to the transmission. Also if you live in the north, Ice and road salt can corrode wire ends inside plugs. This is one way cold can effect your PCM or TCM is these plugs and or connections at these Control Mods. These controls need to have dielectric grease on the contact ends of the plugs. As this grease gets old it looses its ability to transmit electrical signals. Old grease turns orange to yellow, new grease is kind of a milky clear. The old grease is worse than no grease. So, check any wires / plugs to the transmission, looking for broken wires / corroded ends in the plugs. Clean the plugs of any old grease / dirt / corrosion. You may have a bad Shift solenoid valve or you need to change the transmission fluid and filter. This would be my first steps to fixing your problem. Check this and repost if you find all is well with your wiring and trans. fluid.
SOURCE: honda accord ex 2001 check engine light suddenly came on, car started to idle roughly
If it's running rough, chances are that it's misfiring. If the Check Engine light is flashing/blinking, it is definitely misfiring.
If that's the case, drive it as little as possible... Or straight to the mechanic because the more you drive it while it's misfiring, the higher the chance is of you ruining your catalytic converter.
I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_00b31cc8f593773a
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We get regular oil changes on this 2008 Honda Pilot also - with 5w20 oil. Forgot to mention it goes in "limp mode" from these 2 lights coming on.
Update - this morning dealership called they can't get a code to come up - it reset! But here is the code it gave us 3 mths ago P-2647. Like I said the check engine light and VTEC light both came on and it went in limp mode? First they replace an oil pressure switch then a Solonoid. Any IDEAS anyone!?!
Okay, here is the way that this works. The car has CVVT which means that it has continuously variable valve timing. The CAM opens and closes the valves to let fuel and exhaust in an out. The CAM timing can be changed by the computer in the car in order to get better gas mileage. This is done with CVVT and it uses the oil pressure to do that. The computer sends a signal to the OIL CONTROL SOLENOID valve and changes the timing on the cam. When something is wrong in oil pressure reading between the system and the CVVT the code is turned on. So it sounds like they said they replaced the oil pressure sender on the cam and then replaced the oil control valve. First thing to note is that you can ask to see the parts they replaced. If they dont have them then that is a problem. You would be none the wiser if they did what was stated or not. This problem could be very simple to very expensive. The wiring needs to be checked and make sure that it is not broken, corroded or shorted. This has to be done on the sending unit and the valve. Then you should check the solenoid valve and the sender with a meter to be sure they are ok. Then you are at a decision point. You can pull the cam and see if it has a physical obstruction or you can replace the whole computer and neither one of those is cheap.
First of all I want to thank you for answering my call for help! I talked to the dealership again this morning - she said they DID get the code it was the SAME code as before P2647. But they could not make the vehicle check lights come on again. So I asked her what we were supposed to do? I said are you telling me you can't fix it? She said it could be several things - maybe electrical or maybe something in the motor and it could take several up to 10 hrs of labor time to check. I had them change the oil and then she said they drove it for 20 minutes and it didn't do it again during that period. Do I think it's fixed - NO. But at this point we are going to pick it up and bring it to a local mechanic that has his own shop that has worked on our previous vehicles & whom we trust. I think checking ALL the electrical lines and connections will be the first thing we ask him to do. I have been reading on line about this problem & there are LOTS & LOTS of Honda's (not just the Pilot) with this problem! Some seem to get resolved with a new oil pressure switch or Solonoid valve but some keep on having the codes come up - like ours! Thank you for your input and suggestions. I will let you know if we make it home without it coding on Thursday (it's a 1 1/2) hr trip to dealership.
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