My !.3 Manual Accent has been down for two weeks for repairs on the head & head gasket,after all repairs were finished & the engine was totally mounted,the engine would idle hard...normally it does this but quiets down after about 2 minutes..but its not quieting down,does anyone know or have an idea of whats wrong here?? Any help at all would be much appreciated
There isn't just one reason for this symptom. It may or may not be related to the recent head repair. Inspection of the engine compartment will be needed. I would first check to see if the engine light is on. If it is then the codes will need to be read. The codes could hold vital information to help get down to the bottom if this. If not, then look over the engine. Look for pinch, damage, pulled, or unplugged wiring and vacuum lines. your idle issue could be something simple. Maybe the mechanic accidentally put the spark-plug wires on wrong. The more tests that you run and the more information that you provide, it will help us narrow down your search. A large part of the engines functions are electronically controlled. It is possible that there is a failure within anyone of the many electrical parts. It is also possible that there is a mechanical failure. Low oil or fuel pressure, engine running cold, clogged filters, or a blockage inside the catalytic convertor, these could all be suspected and related. I guess the long and short of it is that yes, I have some ideas but no, I'm not sure which one applies to your car. Please write back with what you have checked, what you want to try, and any ideas that you have. Hopefully we can get down to the bottom of this soon. good luck.
1st of all i just wanna say thanks for taking the time to reply to my posted problem,since yesterday i disconnected all wires & tested them then reconnected them to be sure they were all in the correct positions...i adjusted the distributor & now the engine idles much lower than before,i made a run last night & so far it cut off on me once while going downhill,to be honest i dont know that much about the engine,but i believe the automatic choke has stopped working,i would be willing to try any idea you might have,& i am located in trinidad i dont know if that helps (its always kinda warm here)
You are from the island of Trinidad? That is very cool to know. Funny to comprehend that my knowledge from Massachusettes, U.S.A., is helping someone from Trinidad. To get back to your repair. (in case you don't know) The choke circuit is only needed when the engine is cold. The "Automatic choke" closes the butterfly (inside the carb) when the engine is cold (to restict air-flow). As the engine warms up the choke automatically starts to open the butterfly (letting more air into the engine, as it warms up). So now that we have that out there. Let me as you, is the choke operating correctly (from what you observed)? If the choke is getting power and the operation of the choke is correct then maybe the choke is fine. The symptoms that you voiced are a "rough idle". It could be the choke, I'm not sure yet. You are the eyes and ears of this repair. A rough idle could also be related to a vacuum leak or another failure. Did this problem exsist before this repair? This problem could be related to the repair or a new failure. The IAC (idle air control) valve is controlled by vacuum and maintains proper engine idle. Even in warmer climates the choke is still needed. Normal engine running tempurature is between 200-210deg.s The choke is still needed for a cold start but in warmer climates, the choke will be used for a shorter amount of time. Please take a closer look at the carburator. Also with Carbuators, they can form air leaks. If the base gasket is cracked, this will change the amount air that is suppose to get into the engine. This can affect warn up and idle (which also will cause a rough idle). You may need to take another look at the spark plugs. Look at the electrode of each plug. The white ceramic part should be white with black spots. If the color is brown, black, wet with fuel, then there is another problem. Please look it over somemore and let me know. You are the eyes and ears and the more you learn and share, the better I can help you. Or maybe you will figure it out and just let me know how you did it. I can't wait to hear back from you. I wish you luck. Please write back anytime and I'll do my best to help, good luck.
I apologize for this late reply,but ive been really busy with work & yes your info & instructions are helping me alot lol,anyhow,i removed the airflow cover from the carb & to me i dont really see the buterfly closing at all,or opening for that matter,it looks like it jus sits in one position...And no i never got this problem before the repair,i bought a new carb late last year & it worked like a dream,idled hard when cold & got very silent after about 5mins...recently i adjusted the distributor again so that the engine can idle without cutting off,its not a hard or rough idle but its still not as quiet as i know the engine to be...i havent really had time to check my mechanic either,so i guess ive kinda given up..somehow i feel like the only solution is to buy another carb,but idk... umm the sparkplugs are good from what i see but they arent in mint condition if u kno wat i mean,the repair on the engine included water jackets,cylinder head gasket,the thermostat was taken out,the engine head was shaved & oil & filters were changed(air,oil,gas),your information was very helpful to me & its like i learn something new everytime i read your message,lol i really need to take a mechanic course but in due time...Anyhow thanks for your time again but im really not sure of what else i can do
As always, great to hear from you. I'm sorry that your "Rough Idle" isn't fixed yet. Where the answer is eluding you. it may be a good idea to have your mechanic look at it. sometimes a break or a fresh perspective helps. You are doing a great job, hang in there. I think that since you know that the car never had this rough idle before the repair. This could mean that something may have gone wrong during the repair. The fact that when you turned the distributor it had a positive affect on the idle, that is good to know. That alone, reinforces the fact that something just isn't right. You should verify that the timing is 100% If the timing belt was not reinstalled correctly then it may be the source of your rough idle. It makes sence when I reread your symptoms. At this point I don't think you need a new carb. Check the timing belt, timing and the intake manifold (for cracks/leaks). On the bright side, I do feel like you are getting closer so don't throw in the towel. Thank you for wring back, ttyl.
Well i talked to the mechanics & mentioned the timing belt issue,& they insist that they made no mistake when putting it back on & also that there are no leaks in the manifold or on the carb (sorry for the late reply btw) but the engine has been behaving much better since our last convo,my theory (tho it mite be wrong) is that the auto-choke stuck due to the car being down so long & its slowly becoming active again..since day one ive always been spraying the choke area & wiggling the butterfly & 2days ago i noticed it moving & the car has started behaving much better... You cant imagine how helpful your information & knowledge about this have been to me & i really do appreciate it,ive learned alot..thanks for always taking time to reply & help me out in this situation (a rather stressful one i might add) so hopefully within a few days ill be replying to tell you that everything is 100% lol hopefully..
I check my account everyday. Write back anytime. I'm very happy for you. I hope that you did find the problem and it was just the choke sticking. I am a Fleet Mechanic for a large company and I deal with some easy issues and some that require indept diagnostics. Its in my nature to be thorough and not to skip steps. Rushing and skipping proper repair proceedures will just slow down the repair. I hope that your mechanic is right. It would have been nice if your mechanic offered to recheck the timing and gave a better explanation to why your car had this drivability issue. I understand that time is money but a happy customer is someone that will spread the word and come back. If anything changes or you have any questions at all, please feel free to write. And by the way, thank you for helping me help you. Sometimes E-mails lose that human quality and sentences can be interpreted the wrong way. My biggest obsticle with others is getting them to write more. They are the eyes and ears of thier vehicle. I need to know everything they see, hear, know, have done. So thank you for your patience and working with me as well. Take care and good luck.
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Have the vacuum lines checked. Sounds like you have a leak somewhere.
SOURCE: my head gaskets gone and the car makes a nasty knocking noise
if you think the head gasket is blown,and now you have a knocking in the engine,replace engine, bearings are probably bad due to water in the oil.you will need special tools to even do the head gasket and timing belt. sorrry no good news
SOURCE: Help! 2003 Hyundai Accent problems. Transmission??
well the first thing you need to do is to pull the stored codes in the computer and see what they say and then go from there, this could be a speed sensor or a trany going bad , i dont know if this is an automatic or standard trany, start with the codes from the check engine light, autozone car parts store will scan the computer at no charge,
SOURCE: Hi, I've an accent crdi 2003. In mornings engine
I would check the catlic converter to see if its not blocked, best thing to do is to go to a exhaust shop and they can do vacume test or tempreature test.
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Mr Blais all the best to you for the new year..Im sorry to be greeting you this way but i have another problem and i really want to hear your opinion and advice on the topic,so my hyundai accent is now in a new state of failure lol, i have completely given up on the engine (or atleast the head and block) so im currently in search of a new head and block, i dont want to change the engine completely because here in trinidad conversions cost up to 11k for labour, electrical work, and the new engine...so ive been in search of the original head and block for my car,however everywhere ive looked so far (including the internet) only has the 1.5l fuel injected head and block for my car..but my car is carbureted and uses a distributor,the manifold should be able to mount on the head of the fuel injected engine but my question to you is..are there ways to convert my distributor to coil pack? my car is 5fwd it originally came that way,carburetor and distributor..if i buy the fuel injected head and block which are NOT built to hold a distributor,would i be able to get it converted to coil packs? would i be able to use the coil packs with the carburetor? or even the fuel injector? i know you are a busy guy, im looking forward to your reply sir,thank you again.
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