Step_1 disconnect inlet (top hose) & outlet bottom) hose. I'm assuming you're replacing a corroded radiator. They now offer copper or plastic radiators that have high resistance to corrosion. If you replace with alluminum or steel radiator, do a flush job yearly with replace with the green radiiator solution or the red one if you replaced with aluminum radiator.
Step_2 disconnect the electric fan. first unhook the wire connection, then loosen the 4 screws that's holding the fan assembly against the radiator.
Step_3 Loosen the bolts holding the radiator unit. When re-attaching the new radiiator, install new hoses as well. Fill the radiator through the pressure relief cap with 60-40 radiator to water mixture. The instructions say 50-50, but 60-40 is a stronger solution that prevents freezing, boiling, & corrosion buildup. It there's a coolant filter, replace this unit as well. It looks like an oil filter cartridge.
Preventive miantainance: Perform a coolant flush every 50K miles. Most car manufacturers recommend 30K miles or 2 years, which ever comes first, but that's to boo$t revenue for car dealership service centers. IMO the max is 70K or 2 years. When you notice the temperature is overheating in the summer months, an engine radiator flush AND replacing the thermostat is the solution. Most shops will say "you need a new water pump" and the scammer had not even performed a diagnostic test. The water pump will last the life of the engine (140K+ miles) unless the car had run dry without radiator fluid. The radiator fluid lubricates the water pump. Running the engine dry (or low of) without radiator fluid damages the water pump. Running tap water instead of 50-50 or 40-60 radiator fluid mixture will also cause premature wear on the water pump because water by itself is insufficient lubricant on the water pump.
Addendum; besides replacing the top & bottom hoses, the radiator coollant filter cartridge, replace the thermostat as well, located beneath the pipe assembly that connects to the outlet hose from the engine leading to the radiator.
Invest in a Chilton or Haynes repair manual for your vehicle. If you go to Ebay, you might find the original factory manual for your vehicle. Some sellers will offer rhe factory remair manual in a CD-Rom format.
Go to YouTube and search "radiator replacement" to watch tutorial videos.
if you don't stay with the aluminum and go with the copper or any other type of other than oem style you may end up causing electrolysis in the cooling system witch will eat away at your cooling system , it's tough enough keeping the cooling system from have this problem so keeping your cooling system original as possible
When there's electrolysis buildup, you'll notice an increase in engine temperature. The electorlysis is coating the coolant water jacket inside the engine, which is preventing heat transfer from the engine to the coolant fluid. An engine coolant back flush solves this problem. You empty some of the coolant by draining through the hose outlet pipe (unless there's a drainage valve for the coolant), then replace with coolant backflush solution. Drive the car around for maybe 50 miles or more, turn the climate control to "hot" and run the heater in low. This will allow the backflush fluid to pass through the heater core and loosen any gunk or electrolysis buildup there. Let the engine cool down at least an hour before draining the backflush solution, then replace with 50-50 or 40-coolant 60 solution. Car manufacturers went with aluminum radiators to save $$ and increase their prefect margin. Copper radiators cost more, which would've increased production cost. If you live in hot desert regions like Phoeniz or Palm Springs, plastic radiators are not feasible. I called around these areas and noticed none of the radiator repair places offer plastic radiators. they'll install it as special order, but they won't guarantee it in hot 140?F+ temperatures.
When mixing your 50-50 or 40-60 radiator fluid, its best to use bottled distilled water. Tap water has minerals, which helps form electrolysis build up.
dfo you even know what electrolysis is Tony ? you are or what causes it ?
electrolysis is electricity build up in your cooling system and it eats away at all the gaskets and metal you can measure it with a volt meter , positive in the cooling system and the ground to a good known ground ground
This is why a 60-40 coolant-water solution is best. The stronger concentration is an extra layer of protection against buildup along engine's coolant passages & radiator. .
To diagnose for electrolysis on coolant, take a voltage meter, set dial to lowest DC voltage reading, touch negative probe on negative battery and dip red positive probe into coolant fluid in radiator (beneath radiator pressure cap). If there's ANY voltage reading, YES you have electrolysis issue in your radiator coolant. The entire engine block is part of negative electrical circuit, which is why electrolysis is building up if you neglect to perform regular backflush. Beware, shelbysmylif is a mechanic for a dealership, which is why he wants to put doubt on readers' minds on Fixya. I use to work for a dealership, then got fired when customer sued dealership for parts that were never replaced. I told customer dealerships were scammers. Personal motto: I rather be poor & honest than to be rich from cheating people.
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