If I drive my car in warm weather in stop and go traffic, the car will stall and not be able to be restarted until I open the hood and let it cool down. Note that the dash temp gauge is normal at this time and it is not gas cap related. The car can also be hard to restart if driven in stop and go traffic and then parked after say 10 minutes, as if the engine block heat has had time to overheat the fuel header. If I wait long enough, though, it starts fine. I can insulate the header but I would really like to solve the problem which has recently started. I have replaced the ignition coil modules but this did not solve the issue. I have seen the "Check engine" light come on at these times; do I need to buy a reader to identify the code when it happens again? Or is there a more obvious solution. Please advise.
You always check for codes & all data, with or without
a mil or check light on your dash & correct those issue
first,then continue on
Everyone should own a code reader, but you only get generic
codes, not enhanced you also need, which are on professional
scan tool software.
Not a vapor lock issue on fuel injection
You can not say or speculate what is or isn't without looking at
scanner data & doing some testing
You could have any evap system leak,maybe not gas cap
but still evap system or engine or exhaust vacuum leak or
failing fuel pump or fuel system issue
Need to see the data on professional test equipment
Need to component test
Need to find something,anything,correct that & continue on
Testimonial: "To TeddyB and others who may have looked at this post concerning the "vapor lock" in mazda Protege. It turns out that the problem was the cam positioner sensor not providing a signal when it got hot. That is why it appeared to be vapor lock, as the CPS is located in the valve cover at the top of the engine. I finally found it by having a code reader in the car. The code reader was key. It only took 3 minutes to replace, and teh car runs like new. Thanks for all the help. JimG"
You got lucky Just keep in mind that codes do not mean sensors are bad,they may bebut seldom are. The sensors take their readings of mechanical parts that turn & create the sensor signals Always component test,don't hang parts based on any codes
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SOURCE: 2001 mazda protege keeps stalling
my 2001 mazda protege starts hard, idles low and high at various times (never normal) and it acts as though its going to stall at all times. sparks and wires are changed no help, changed air filter no help. any idea on what to do?
SOURCE: For 2003 Mazda Protege ES model 2.0L 4cyl engine;
Check the air inlet boot going from the air filter to the intake for rips or holes. If rips exist, this would allow air to bypass the filter and mass air flow sensor and will lead to a check engine light appearing. The code would read "too lean, bank 1." If this problem is allowed to continue for long periods of time, the EGR ports will have to be cleaned out and maybe even the intake.
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