There is a cup on the back of the clutch pedal that pushes the rod on the clutch master cylinder. It broke off. I replaced it and the clutch pedal would not depress it was stuck in the up position. Replaced the slave cylinder cause somebody said that could be the problem. Bled the line and still no go I can only move the clutch pedal if the bleeder is open. No signs of a bad clutch prior to this peice breaking.Not spongy, no slipping, no jumping out of gear. Any help or ideas?
Replace the master cylinder as there are burrs and grooves in the cylinder that is jamming the piston movement.
SOURCE: replaced slave cylinder 2004 ford ranger 4x4 still no pedal
I had the same problem with my 1995 1500 p.u.. Assuming your clutch slave cylinder is the concentric style. If not disregard. I hate that set up. what the hell was wrong with the old outside of the bell housing slave/ mechanical style fork and throw out bearing bla bla? Its because ford as well of the rest of the lovely auto makers decided long ago to make them as hard as hell to repair on you own. Ive been told theres a spsecial tool just for this bleeding task. Pobably. They make those tools to sell to us so they can further profit from us poor suckers.Also I wonder on your model if its concentric, does it have the difficult sized bleeder valve as mine did? or have they gotten a little more user friendly? doubt it. In my case as this style is a closed system I followed the bleeding intructions to a tee. That did get alot more clutch action for me, after 15 attempts.However I do believe the problem after looking and further inspection under the dash? look up under the dash and inspect your pedal rack and frame. I found mine was cracked and the cause of poor aliegnment. check for that rite away. I located another rack but before I got around to replacing it, the tranny blew, and the trucks sitting on my dads property. Its still a danmed good truck and one of these days I will get on it again. Anyway up untill the tranny blew I was never able to get more than half the distance from the pedal and besides the rack problem I would love to know the bleeding anser, that is if Im off target. Going to be up against it again when I replace that transmission. Hope this helps a little. Food for thought maybe? If you find out something more helpful post it so I will know too.
SOURCE: 2002 Hyundai Accent won't go into gear.
Probably the arm that holds the rtelease bearing in the bell housing has slipped out of place. Get someone to depress the clutch while you check the arm is not loose. If the cylinders are working then its most likely the arm is disconected. If you are lucky you may get it put back in place by looking through the inspection hole but most likely you will have to seperate the engine and gearbox. Sorry I havent better news for you.
SOURCE: i have A 1998 FORD RANGER EXT. CAB W/ 6 CYL.- 4.0
Take the top off the master cyl and slowly very slow push in on the clutch and watch for any bubbles comming up.Replace the top and pump pressure and bleed at the master direct by using the lines for bleeders.
SOURCE: replaced both rear metal brake pipes cant get good brake pedal
Try jacking up car and put on stands as high as poss as you could have air returning when the pedal is returned ,so jack up car pump pedal 4 times fast and hold down bleed l/h/s/first ,do 2 times then the r/h/side and then push down pedal clamp rubber flex hose over back axlewith small G clamp if pedal good do same to FRONT
SOURCE: My clutch pedal wont spring back once i've
A clutch pedal not springing back is almost always an indication that there is air in the system. Bleeding out a clutch is a tedious endeavor to say the least.
I suggest you open up the bleeder screw & gravity bleed the clutch.(This will take a long time as well!)
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