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On some of the Toyotas, the brake pad info that some auto parts places have on file is incorrect. The pads are just slightly too big and the are touching the un-worn part of the rotor, making a noise that almost mimics the grinding sound like when a pad is completely worn to the metal/rivets. Sometimes it even causes noise when the brakes are not being applied. This is often visible on the rotor- the ridge where the original pad ended, is now a clean bump instead of a ridge that is very rusty.
In some cases, this noise will clear itself as the rotor clears and the pad wears. It's always possible that the pads that were changed were 'cheapies' that were a bit undersized. The only solutions in that case are get the same kind again, or, turn or replace the rotors.
check brake system alerts you to check them --low fluid ,low pedal ,the brake trouble light would be for blown line no pedal type and that would code --as to price for whats being done is normal
Did you also replace the brake pads? If not, the wear from the warped rotors most likely caused uneven wear on the pads (not visible by looking at them, but apparent when you apply the brakes). This is probably causing it feel like the rotors are still warped. I don't believe your anti-lock brakes have anything to do with this.
The front pads are worn down which makes the brake fluid fill up the void the brake pads are missing now due to wear. Replace the brake pads and brake rotors if the rotors are worn too, then top off the brake fluid if needed. You can top of the break fluid for now, but that's just going to turn off your break light warning till you breaks wear it self down to the point you damage the brake rotors.
Have the brake pads replaced and inspect the brake rotors, if your good with common tools you can do this job your self in under 1 hour. Tools you need is a jack, 15mm socket, ratchet, screw driver and a clamp. The Clamp is optional, you can get the brake pads at Auto Zone and they can give you the step by step instructions to getting the job done. Keep me posted, be glad to answer any questions you may have and good luck.
Make sure the rotors (the disks that the tire rim are mounted on), are smooth. If they are rough, then they are wearing your break pads down. Even if the break pads are new, bad rotors will grind them down. Change the rotors...
well it sounds to me that the front rotors are warped and when they get hot thats when you feel the vibration or shaking. i would change the rotors on the front
o.k... the first thing you have to remember is never panic... because panic get's people hurt... with me. o.k... second thing... i'm going to bet you wore down the rotors on the car... because once you wear the breaks down enough... you're bound to get the rivits dug into the rotors... which isn't good, you know how the old records use to look like... with the groves in it... that's more or less how rivits do to rotors... but not to worry, now... depending on how bad the rotors look... some can be turned and made like new... other's... well... they'll have to be replaced... and that's o.k... new is good, now... if you bough new breaks one week... and put them on... even though the rotors were slightly groved... that's fine... because when you get the money together... and you change the rotors... the breaks will be groved some... but... the good thing is... the new rotors will wear down the breaks and make them flat again... so you don't have to change the breaks againg until it's time... so we're o.k. rotors are betwee $20 to $65... each... not too bad, once you change the breaks... and the rotors... things shoud be fine as far as the break warning light... as far as the changing gears light... don't know man... maybe it'll be fixed when the breaks are... you know... any way... change the breaks... and the rotors... disconnect the battery for 1 minute to clear out any codes... the reconnect... and you should be fine... o.k. later
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