I replaced the clutch,pressure plate, and slave cylinder on my 98 s-10 then a month later it started to grind when i put in 5 gear then it stop and started doing it in 3 and it does it in 2,3

So you installed a new transmission and a whole new clutch kit? Did the kit include the pressure plate, clutch, throw out bearing and slave cylinder? Did you bleed the slave cylinder? The low and soft pedal is a clear sign that there is air in the hydraulic system. The loud noise after that tells me you're either grinding the gear trying to shift or there is a problem inside the transmission itself. If you installed everything correctly and torqued all the bolts correctly in the clutch assembly and transmission, then try bleeding the slave cylinder again, sometimes air gets trapped in the cylinder and it's hard to get out, If you let the clutch master cylinder run dry while you either had the clutch apart or while you were bleeding the clutch, then you have to start from scratch and re-bleed the whole system.

Umm...

A mechanical 'breaking noise' doesn't sound good. It's hard to diagnose a problem online without being there to see/hear the vehicle. But .. it may be that your clutch pressure plate has broken/ release/throwout bearing has broken?

It's difficult to see why the master cylinder should leak - unless it was incorrectly fitted in the first place?

Just to check ... The master cylinder is in the engine bay/compartment and is where you top up with clutch fluid. When a master cylinder fails it usually results in no pressure at the clutch pedal, not a leak.

The clutch slave cylinder is the one that does all the work. When you press the pedal hydraulic pressure is sent from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder - which then pushes the release/throwout bearing against the clutch pressure plate and 'disconnects' the driven plate .. allowing you to change gear.

The slave cylinder is the one that does all the hard work - it is located somewhere where engine and gearbox mate together, usually at the bottom right/left. It's usually the one that fails/leaks. It's quite easy to replace..

I don't think it is anything to do with reverse gear. It's more to do with the clutch pedal being depressed - and, I would suspect - something has failed.

The link below is generic images of a clutch:
clutch diagram Google Search

Basically, a clutch is 3 parts. There's the 'pressure plate' which bolts onto your flywheel. The pressure plate is a 'spring'. You depress the clutch pedal and the release/throwout bearing presses onto the centre of the pressure plate causing the 'fingers' - the springs - to bend back and take pressure off the driven plate - which is the link - the drive - between engine and gearbox.

If you have a leak your clutch will not work. This causes a 'grinding/crashing' noise when you try to change gear. The first thing you should do is check where the leak is coming from and do something about it.

The 'noise' that you mention may be due to the fact that the gears are 'grinding' as they try to mesh together without the use of the clutch.

The first thing you should do is check why there's a leak. It's difficult to see why a new master cylinder is leaking unless it was incorrectly fitted and damaged (pipes incorrectly connected..).

If it's the slave cylinder that is leaking - replace it. Easy job.

If Master cylinder and slave cylinder are ok - you have to look at your clutch unit. A clutch is always replaced with 3 parts ... throwout bearing/pressure plate and driven disk.

The clutch is not transferring power to the gearbox, which then is not turning, so that you can select gears without the clutch.Possibilities are
- clutch assembly has failed, possibly by the splined driven plate hub coming adrift
- clutch driven plate has become very worn and has lost contact
- slave cylinder has stuck through corrosion (assuming a hydraulic clutch) and is holding out the clutch independent of the pedal. This can be determined by watching it while someone depresses and raises the pedal.

I think it is unlikely the transmission input shaft has fractured.

If you mean you step on the clutch, put transmission in gear and release clutch with no engagement (pedal returns to top position) there is a good chance your clutch disc or pressure plate, or both are worn out and need replacing.
If your clutch pedal is going to the floor and not returning there could be a leak in the system, a bad clutch master cylinder or a bad slave cylinder on the transmission. Check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. If it is low or empty you have a leak or component failure. Visually inspect clutch master, line, slave cylinder for fluid leaks. replace as needed. If hydraulics are o.k., suspect clutch disc/pressure plate.

pressure and clutch plate (clutch set) need to be inspected and probably replaced. be prepared for a transmission repair as well if the problem has been going on for months.

Hi bosslady15,

First of all I think I should say that clutches do not make grinding noises - but transmission gears do.
However, a clutch that is not disengaging properly can make the gears grind when trying to shift from one gear to the next. Also a common source of noise is the clutch throwout bearing. This will make a "grinding" or "growling" noise any time the clutch pedal is depressed. In either of these cases, the only solution is to replace the clutch, throwout bearing, pressure plate and pilot bushing. These all usually come in a clutch kit. If you have an hydraulic clutch with an internal slave cylinder it is recommended to replace the slave cylinder as well and also the flywheel on on vehicles. I'm sorry I cannot be more specific because you did not mention what type of vehicle we are talking about here.

fill the reservoir for the clutch slave cylinder. No with the engine OFF pump the clutch 25 times. Yes 25 times. Now start the engine and see if it shifts. If it does you need a new slave cylinder, clutch, pressure plate, & throwout bearing as well. Everything is replaced upon dismantling for you do now want to do it again within a few months later. Also have the flywheel machined smooth if its still any good

Well, there is only one thing I can think of in your situation. Your pressure plates just simply are not creating enough pressure to allow the gears to engage. Either you have a defective clutch and it needs to be replaced, or possibly just needs a ton of adjustment. When you put it in 1st gear while engine is off, then start it and take off that works b/c there is enough pressure to keep the gears from starting to move when not already moving. However when they are already moving, there is just not enough pressure to stop them from turning, not even long enough to shift. Have you tried forcing it into 2,3, or 4 while driving without the clutch? As long as you achieve the correct RPM's your transmission should be able to do so.

hi, if when you put it into gear and you lift your foot off the clutch then if your engine revs up without the actual power going to the wheels like when you say the revs change this indicates that your clutch is slipping, i wouldnt say their was a problem with either the cylinder master or slave and i wouldnt say it needed flushing out the problem you are having it that your clutch is slipping due to it being to low.

You need to get the clutch replaced sooner rather than later due to the fact that if your clutch plate shatters due to it being running on the rivets and not the actual clutch plate then this can cause the clutch to collapse and this will then cause damage to the master and slave cylinder and if you was driving at the time you would have no clutch at all and the car would be stuck in gear and you wouldnt be able to tow it as it would be stuck in gear.

You need to get the clutch and pressure plate the thrust bearing changed this will then solve your problem.

let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok

Yes, if the pressure plate is bad the clutch peddle can go to the floor and stay there.