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you can check that the fans are working as required if it is an ECM controlled vehicle that has electric fans
if the fan is connected to the water pump shaft then replace the viscous fan hub
No kidding. It's minus 26 right now in Montana where I am.
What actuator was that? The vacuum controlled doors are probably the problem. If both heater hoses are hot, coolant is circulating, and it must be a door in the heater case assembly not opening.
In this frigid weather, I would buy a hand vacuum pump and try all the little vacuum canisters around the case (under the dash) and see if you could find the door that gives heat out the vents, defroster, anywhere you can get some heat in the car. Get some heat, and diagnose fully when it warms up. A single vacuum line from the engine goes through the firewall into a podlike fixture, mounted probably below and to the right of the heater/ac control head. Probably electrically controlled, the pod delivers vacuum signals through several hoses to little canisters that operate the heater doors.
not really. if you are getting different air flow at different fan speeds then the problem is the mixing door that allows warm air thru to mix with the ambient air. something is preventing it from opening if you are not getting heat.
if your fan speed stays constant then something is either blocking the fan output or something is wrong with the fan itself.
check your temp gauge. if it is getting hotter then you are losing coolant and need to fix that ASAP.
last, depending on where you live, you could conceivably be not getting hot enough air. I had a car 23 years ago like that. At temps below 0F it just wouldn't get warm enough to put hot air in the car and I had to wear gloves, jacket, neckwarmer, and hat to stay semi-warm. I actually had to block off part of the radiator with a cardboard sheet. to get some heat in the car.
could be the thermostat if it was just stating to go bad,could also be a vacume problem not letting the door for the ac/heat close all the way for a few min.and if its really cold out like below 35,then its going to take longer to warm up,my jeep takes like around 20 min at idle to warm up.yours could be a case of over cooling in cold weather too ie(electric fans on before it warms up)that would be the thermostatic sensor.
sounds like the thermostat might be stuck open. the engine uses hot antifreeze to heat up the inside of the car if the thermostat is stuck open all of the antifreeze will be circulating all the time and it will take a long time to heat up. I would try to replace the thermostat
It is possible that your thermostat is stuck open. Normally, the thermostat remains closed when starting cold, confining coolant to the engine block and cylinder head until it heats up. Once the coolant in the block is warm (usually within 10 minutes), the thermostat begins to open and let coolant flow into the radiator to cool it down some. A properly operating thermostat will continue to cycle until the coolant reaches the operating temperature of the thermostat--usually around 180 deg F. Then the thermostat will continue to adjust its opening to maintain that temp.
Thermostats can get stuck in both closed and open positions. When stuck closed, the engine will quickly overheat. When stuck open, the engine will take forever to warm up--especially in cold weather because the coolant is continually pushed into the radiator and cooled off before it ever has a chance to get warm. Changing the inexpensive thermostat may help correct your condition.
Your door latch needs some lubrication. In a pinch you can use a propane torch and heat the latch to get it warmed up and working freely. It only takes 30 seconds or so directing the flame all over the latch. don't get too close or you will burn the paint. Once you have the latch working, spray it liberally with a can of lock de-icer. Put the spray nozzle into the latch where the door hooks into it and rotate the spray can to get into different parts of the latch. The alcohol in the de-icer will evaporate the water or condensation in the latch. After a few minutes re-spray the latch with
WD-40 or RustCheck in the same manner.This will help to keep it from freezing again. You may have to occasionally repeat this process especially after a period of warm followed by a cold spell.
You can also accomplish this by removing the door panel and getting directly at the latch. If you do it will likely only have to be done once, otherwise you may have to do it from the outside a couple of times.
Doing this every fall should prevent it from occuring in the future. Hope this helps.
iv had a few people come in with that complaint I clean inside of door and spray seal with good 100% silicone spray and spray latches with penetrating oil
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