Ive replaced pick up coil,, fuel pump, fuel filter, 11psi on fuel pressure, electronic spark control, ignition control module, rebuilt fuel pressure regulator on tbi, and have put a new computer in
So, it's the injector circuit. There is a 10 amp injector fuse in the fuse block, on left side, 4th one down. Check this fuse. It supplies constant power to both injectors, on the red wire to injector 1, and a white wire splice from this to injector 2. A steady 12 volts anytime key is in on, run, or start. You can check this with a test light or voltmeter. Ground the test light and probe injector connector's red wire on injector 1, and the white wire on injector 2-both should be hot with key on.
This may be why the noid light didn't blink. The noid light must have this steady power signal, and when the computer internally grounds the injector ground circuit for a split second, you get injector pulse-or a blinking noid light.
You can check the ground circuit separately with a test light also for each injector. Place the ground clip of test light on the POSITIVE battery post, and probe the blue (ground) wire on injector 1, the engine must be cranking over, and the test light should be blinking. Do the same for the green wire on injector 2. If the test light is blinking on both ground wires, with engine cranking-the ground circuit is good. You are sending power down the ground wire to computer, and when the computer grounds the circuit, the tester will light up-it will blink because the computer only momentarily grounds the circuit to cause pulsing of the injectors.
Testimonial: "Alright I checked fuse and it wasn't blown changed it just to make sure, I have checked hot wires on both injectors and they lit up had some turn motor over and ground wires are not lighting up, I had someone check behind me and still no response. .."
Since computer is new, check continuity of the two ground wires. Both go to larger connector on pcm. Blue to (467) or slot 14?? Green to 468 or slot 16?? Unclear in a diagram. Neg. off batt. pull pcm connector, check continuity from injector to pins.
You did have test light clippedon battery positive post when checking for blinking?
yes I put it on as you said, this truck has been doing this for 5 or more years my grandfather had the motor rebuilt that I do know, it would run fine one week with maybe a high low idle and the next it would cut off and strand him somewhere or it just wouldn't fire up and hes had lots of mechanics look at it with no success.
I see, a real keeper. Those wires, if buried deep in a wiring harness, you may want to pull it apart and inspect them closely, or possibly use a replacement harness if you could find one. Maybe the harness got too close to exhaust and scorched or corrupted some wires. And at pcm connector, check closely for corrosion or evidence of a bad connection. If checking continuity-don't forget the wiggle test-move the wires to check for breaks, high resistance to passing current. Possibly some rewiring is in order.Check out Car-Part.com for a used engine wiring harness. It's a nationwide locator of used parts, they might have one for you. Or if you are good with soldering and electrical work, run new ground wires from injector to the pcm. Good luck.
I see, a real keeper. Those wires, if buried deep in a wiring harness, you may want to pull it apart and inspect them closely, or possibly use a replacement harness if you could find one. Maybe the harness got too close to exhaust and scorched or corrupted some wires. And at pcm connector, check closely for corrosion or evidence of a bad connection. If checking continuity-don't forget the wiggle test-move the wires to check for breaks, high resistance to passing current. Possibly some rewiring is in order.Check out Car-Part.com for a used engine wiring harness. It's a nationwide locator of used parts, they might have one for you. Or if you are good with soldering and electrical work, run new ground wires from injector to the pcm. Good luck.
Oops! Internet connectivity problem, or my senior moment,lol!
thanks for all the help I will post if this is the winner or not.
after a week of trying to find the electrical proble I threw in the towel, im putting a carburetor on and bypassing all the electrical fuel injector nonsense, I hope this information will help anyone else having this problem.
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There's a sensor something to do with the temperature not sure what it's called I had a buddy it did something like that I think it screws in on the intake
SOURCE: im getting to much fuel my 1992 camaro rs 5.0L 305
The precatayltic O2 sensors or sensor may by malfunctioning.These are the O2 sensors that tells the ecm to adjust the air fuel ratio according to how much oxygen content is in the exhaust.If for some reason it thinks to much oxygen content is in the exhaust it will tell the ecm to add more fuel.The post catalytic O2 basically is used to monitor the catalytic converter function and should not adjust any air or fuel. Is the check engine light on and are any codes presnt?
SOURCE: 1995 van stumbles it has a new fuel pump,
well i am sorry to tell you that your problem from the beginning was a bad coil these cars love burning coils i tell you, i replaced dozens of coils check for the cylinder thats not working then visually loock for spark at the coil if there is at one end but not at the other replace the coil, good luck
SOURCE: Chevy S-10 Start problems
If hall effect switch was bad you wouldn't get any spark.What year 2.5L is this?Is this a 2 injector Throttle Body? The pink wire on top of injectors comes thru a 20Amp fuse controlled by the Ignition switch you should have battery voltage with key on The dark green and dark blue wires come from the pcm which are called injector drivers the drivers supply a pulsating ground if you crank the engine with a test light between either pink/dk green or pink/dk blue test light should flash dimmlythat would mean injectors are being driven but there isn't any fuel at the injector or the injectors are bad no pulse means either a bad computer ( which these drivers are known for going bad)or the computer isn't being commanded to fire the injectors.
SOURCE: 1996 chevrolet cavalier 2.2 replaced
Need to put a noid light on injectors to see if they are firing.
SOURCE: pops back through the intake when it is cold runs
This problem can be caused by defective spark plug wires that are cross firing due to voltage leaking to a nearby plug wire as well as a flat camshaft lobe.
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I have spark, it will run with starter fluid, tested injectors with a noid light and nothing happened. I bought it and it ran for two days and cutoff in drive way, it did have a high low rev problem while in idle but it only happened twice
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