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Anonymous Posted on Feb 17, 2014

What would the correct dwell angle be for 1988 nissan pickup z20 engine ignition system?

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 19 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 08, 2008

SOURCE: Bogs and backfires--1988 Nissan Urvan E24-H w/Z24 eng.

The dwell angle should be 50 degrees (49-55) Your problem sounds like either the ignition system breaking down under load or a carburettor progression fault, i.e. the idle circuit is working fine but the main jets are blocked. This can sometimes be cleared by revving the engine with the air filter off & then covering the carb inlet with a piece of rag while keeping the throttle wide open, taking care not to let the rag get sucked in! The idea is to use the vacuum of the engine to **** fuel through the jets & hopefully clear them. Do this a couple of times without letting the engine cut out. Remove the rag just before the engine dies, pick up the revs & try again. Sorry I couldn't answer yesterday but there seemed to be a fault with the website.
Good luck & keep in touch.

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Mike Deemer-White

  • 96 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 20, 2009

SOURCE: i need to know the vavle clearance of nissan z20 engine.

VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT
Application In. (mm)
Intake .010-.013 (.26-.34)
Exhaust .011-.015 (.29-.37)

Anonymous

  • 140 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 21, 2009

SOURCE: 1988 nissan pickup engine rotates but does'nt start.

it sounds like the injectors are not opening up man.. replace the injectores and this should fix your problem..good luck keith....

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on May 06, 2009

SOURCE: 1988 Nissan pickup and starts up and dies almost suddenly.

i just went thru this. Fuel filter was clogged and fuel pump was shot and needed to be replaced

Anonymous

  • 1102 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 30, 2010

SOURCE: help me to fix vacuum

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Point gap and dwell for 972 datsun 521 pickup

Point gap can be set using a match book cover. It will be about 0.015. The set the dwell angle base on how the engine runs. In a four-cylinder engine, the angle between each ignition cam lobe is 90° and the period of points closure or "DWELL" is usually a bit over 45° of distributor rotation. In a six-cylinder engine, the lobes are 60° apart and the dwell time is 30° to 35°.
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What is the dwell angle on a 3f engine if point gap is 18 thou

dwell angle is the no of degrees rotation between points closed and points open and for example on a 4 cylinder engine ( 4 lobes =90 degrees the dwell would be around 45 degrees available
there is an adverse relationship between point gap and dwell angle
the closer the points the bigger the dwell and conversely the bigger the gap the smaller the dwell angle
in a distributor the point gap of 18 would have a large dwell angle and that affects ignition timing
in your workshop manual there will be a dwell angle specification and if you set the points at .020 " that will put you close to the dwell angle specification
from there you adjust the gap to obtain the dwell setting
after yo have the dwell set , adjust the ignition timing
there is plenty of information on dwell angle, /point gap if you type in ---dwell angle to point gap relationship--
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The dwell angles for a 1991 Ford Econovan LWBS 2000cc petrol motor running on 96 RON Petrol Engine in good condition?

this engine should have an electronic ignition in which case there is no dwell angle
dwell angle was the degrees between the points opening and closing to give maximum saturation for the coil field
as it should be ab EFI engine then ECM makes the adjustment necessary for the correct setting for the fuel in use
as it is a low compression engine , the fuel octane rating that is best suited for it is 91
it will run well on 96 but the advantage gained is outweighed by the cost
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I am trying to get the dwell angle correct on the toyota 82 hiace van 18r motor ..it should be 52 degrees but it shows only 44 degrees on the meter.. I adjusted the contacts gap either way between point...

The title to your problem on this site is:

"I am trying to get the dwell angle correct on the

Problem with the 1988 Toyota Pickup"


So, I first assumed that is was a pickup. However by your vehicle description in the body of your question, you have an older vehicle with a different engine type. You might want to update the site title to your question.


The truck I have is 1987 Toyota Pick up with a 22R engine with electronic ignition. So I might not have the specifics for your vehicle but I would suggest that you set your point gaps to the specific gap the manufacturer suggest for your 82. This gap has a lot to do with the timing. On my truck, it is breaker less electronic, but I still have to set the distributer position to 8 degrees BTDC (Before top dead center). I use a timing light connected to the #1 sparkplug wire. I also have to disable the vacuum advance by disconnecting the vacuum line and plugging it so the engine does not run rough while doing my checks. I also have to make sure the distributer mechanical advance is also not interfering with my measurement. I have to keep the RPM less than 750 otherwise the mechanical advance will advance the rotor position by 5 degrees. For my vehicle, the vacuum and mechanical advance together can position the rotor to (8 + 5 + 5 = 18 degrees BTDC).


For your vehicle, I would make sure your advance is working and is in the "relaxed" position and not interfering with your timing measurement. If you have a vacuum line going to your distributer, you might have a vacuum advance as well. You can check this by using the timing light and observe the position of your crankshaft mark as you increase the engine rpm. You should see the crankshaft pulley mark move in relation to your marks on the engine block. If it does not, that might be why your engine is weak. Many times my mechanical and vacuum advance would not work and my engine performance suffered. My distributer electronic ignition sensor sits on a plate attached to ball bearing ring surrounding the shaft. The mechanical advance was activated by spinning weights that would adjust the position of the sensor the faster the distributer shaft spins. When my distributer would get dusty and dirty and the bearings would clog and not roll too well. The vacuum advance also moves this plate, but independent from the mechanical. It too would get stuck and not move the advance as far as needed for engine speed or load.


Since you have your distributer out, make sure it is fully clean and if you have mechanical and vacuum advances, that they are clean, free moving and in working order. I would set your point gap at the high point of the lobes. Also, make you

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Settings for points for 454 engine86 chev c30 scotsdale one ton truck

You have a 1986 454 engine with an old style breaker point ignition distributor, GM has not used a breaker point ignition for their V-8 engines since 1974, is that an older distributor or something after-market?

The ignition points dwell angle for that engine should be set at 29-31 degrees dwell (a dwell meter would be the most accurate way to set the ignition points), or a .019 in. point gap.

The spark plug gap for that engine would be .035 in. and the timing should be set at 10 degrees before top dead center.
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Timing advance and dwell specs ford probe 1994 2.5L 24v. Can 'dwell' be adjusted or is it computerised, not sure how dwell angle is or readings required in relation with timing advance/******. manual gives...

timing and dwell angle is non adjustable in these later model vehicles. the dwell is simply a reading that might be useful on a scope, while the timing advance is controlled by the systems ecu(computer) by taking readings off the knock sensor(or pre detonation sensor). this is a mazda engine. is there a problem or are you simply trying to keep up on the maintenance?
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Bogs and backfires--1988 Nissan Urvan E24-H w/Z24 eng.

The dwell angle should be 50 degrees (49-55) Your problem sounds like either the ignition system breaking down under load or a carburettor progression fault, i.e. the idle circuit is working fine but the main jets are blocked. This can sometimes be cleared by revving the engine with the air filter off & then covering the carb inlet with a piece of rag while keeping the throttle wide open, taking care not to let the rag get sucked in! The idea is to use the vacuum of the engine to **** fuel through the jets & hopefully clear them. Do this a couple of times without letting the engine cut out. Remove the rag just before the engine dies, pick up the revs & try again. Sorry I couldn't answer yesterday but there seemed to be a fault with the website.
Good luck & keep in touch.
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