SOURCE: Bogs and backfires--1988 Nissan Urvan E24-H w/Z24 eng.
The dwell angle should be 50 degrees (49-55) Your problem sounds like either the ignition system breaking down under load or a carburettor progression fault, i.e. the idle circuit is working fine but the main jets are blocked. This can sometimes be cleared by revving the engine with the air filter off & then covering the carb inlet with a piece of rag while keeping the throttle wide open, taking care not to let the rag get sucked in! The idea is to use the vacuum of the engine to **** fuel through the jets & hopefully clear them. Do this a couple of times without letting the engine cut out. Remove the rag just before the engine dies, pick up the revs & try again. Sorry I couldn't answer yesterday but there seemed to be a fault with the website.
Good luck & keep in touch.
SOURCE: i need to know the vavle clearance of nissan z20 engine.
VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT
Application In. (mm)
Intake .010-.013 (.26-.34)
Exhaust .011-.015 (.29-.37)
SOURCE: 1988 nissan pickup engine rotates but does'nt start.
it sounds like the injectors are not opening up man.. replace the injectores and this should fix your problem..good luck keith....
SOURCE: 1988 Nissan pickup and starts up and dies almost suddenly.
i just went thru this. Fuel filter was clogged and fuel pump was shot and needed to be replaced
SOURCE: help me to fix vacuum
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"I am trying to get the dwell angle correct on the
Problem with the 1988 Toyota Pickup"
So, I first assumed that is was a pickup. However by your vehicle description in the body of your question, you have an older vehicle with a different engine type. You might want to update the site title to your question.
The truck I have is 1987 Toyota Pick up with a 22R engine with electronic ignition. So I might not have the specifics for your vehicle but I would suggest that you set your point gaps to the specific gap the manufacturer suggest for your 82. This gap has a lot to do with the timing. On my truck, it is breaker less electronic, but I still have to set the distributer position to 8 degrees BTDC (Before top dead center). I use a timing light connected to the #1 sparkplug wire. I also have to disable the vacuum advance by disconnecting the vacuum line and plugging it so the engine does not run rough while doing my checks. I also have to make sure the distributer mechanical advance is also not interfering with my measurement. I have to keep the RPM less than 750 otherwise the mechanical advance will advance the rotor position by 5 degrees. For my vehicle, the vacuum and mechanical advance together can position the rotor to (8 + 5 + 5 = 18 degrees BTDC).
For your vehicle, I would make sure your advance is working and is in the "relaxed" position and not interfering with your timing measurement. If you have a vacuum line going to your distributer, you might have a vacuum advance as well. You can check this by using the timing light and observe the position of your crankshaft mark as you increase the engine rpm. You should see the crankshaft pulley mark move in relation to your marks on the engine block. If it does not, that might be why your engine is weak. Many times my mechanical and vacuum advance would not work and my engine performance suffered. My distributer electronic ignition sensor sits on a plate attached to ball bearing ring surrounding the shaft. The mechanical advance was activated by spinning weights that would adjust the position of the sensor the faster the distributer shaft spins. When my distributer would get dusty and dirty and the bearings would clog and not roll too well. The vacuum advance also moves this plate, but independent from the mechanical. It too would get stuck and not move the advance as far as needed for engine speed or load.
Since you have your distributer out, make sure it is fully clean and if you have mechanical and vacuum advances, that they are clean, free moving and in working order. I would set your point gap at the high point of the lobes. Also, make you
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