I need a suspension diagram that shows the Inner tie rods.

Mary, 2003 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD suspension and steering diagrams. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
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The inner and outer tie rods are pretty self explanatory remove the nut from the knuckle. Whack the knuckle a couple times where the tie rod goes through and the tie rod will pop out. The inner will releas the same way. Get the sleeve whe you get the inner and outer tie rod. It will make life a lot easier. Assemble the new parts to the approximate same length as the parts you removed and install. The idler arm will be bolted to the frame and then have a ball and socket that will be removed in the same manner as the tie rod end. The pitman arm will require a puller to seperate it from the gear box. Sometimes you have to heat up the end that attaches to the gear box to get them to pop. Sometimes the gear box needs to be removed in order to get the puller on the pitman arm. Lower and upper ball joints are also very common on these. If they have not been done I would have them checked as well.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Hello ogkilla79,

Below is a diagram of the inner tie rod ends. They are about in the center of the engine compartment close to the firewall.



I hope this helps.

Regards,

netvan

webbraymond2, Yes, you have to remove the outer tie to access the inner tie rod. When you do this, count the rotations of the tie rod as this will have to be replaced when the new inner tie rod is installed. Counting the rotations will allow you to put the outer tie rod close to where it was when you started the job. You are changing the toe setting when you have to replace either the inner or outer tie rod. You need to access and remove the jamb nut and boot before you can access the inner tie rod and this is why the outer needs to be removed first. A wheel alignment is advised after you finish the job. Good luck with this.

The first step in replacing the inner tie rod is to remove the tie rod end. It's basically a three step process, where you start by loosening the jam nut that's used to set the alignment (toe-in or toe-out). That jam nut determines how far up the inner tie rod the tie rod end is fixed. The tie rod end is hollow and threaded, so it can be screwed on or off the inner tie rod. Any procedure for removing a tie rod will start by telling you to count the turns you unscrew the tie rod end, something that I didn't do, and I'll save the explanation for the end:-) After you loosen the jam nut, you remove the cotter pin from the post on the outer tie rod ball joint, and unscrew the nut that holds the ball joint into the tapered fitting on the steering knuckle (video to right). After you pop the outer tie end free of the steering knuckle, you can unscrew the tie rod end. from the inner tie rod, but you need to grip it with something. Inner tie rods normally have some flat surfaces or a splined surface for grabbing with pliers. In this case, I needed two pairs of visegrips and a clamp to hold the visegrips on the inner tie rod from moving in order to get the outer tie rod end broken free and turning easy. That video is below. I happen to own the shop manuals for my Dodge Omni, so I was able to study the procedure for replacing the inner tie rod in detail. I didn't follow it for a couple reason. First, they show my type of power steering rack (Saginaw vs TRW) needs to be removed from the car to change the inner tie rod. That's a lot of extra work, not to mention the fact I buried one of the crossmember bolts in my unibody and flooring repair! So I went with an inner tie rod removal kit from Harbor Freight, manufactured by U.S. General (in Taiwan). The tool is very simple, basically a large steel tub with a snap in opening for a large crows foot insert on one end and a 1/2" socket drive on the other end. The kit is shown in the photo to the lower left (which I need to replace), and a video of the procedure is shown below. The kit wasn't quite right for my car, I had to use an oversized crows foot and the ball joint housing on the inner tie rod was too long, so the flats on the housing were barely held with the crows foot positioned by hand at the very end of the tool. But I got it out.

You will need to rent or borrow in inner tie rod tool but here are the directions.
1. Break the jam nut on inner tie rod to outer loose.
2. Remove nut from outer tie rod attaching it to steering knuckle.
3. Use hammer to get tie rod out of knuckle.
4. Unscrew outer tie rod then jam nut
5. Remove clamp from boot and slide off inner tie rod.
6. Using side cutter or hammer and chisel break off metal clamp on the inside of inner tie rod boot.
7. Using inner tie rod tool, unscrew inner tie rod from rack and pinion
8. Reinstall parts and have it aligned

You have left and right inner tie rods and outer tie rods on your car.
You also have lower ball joints which can wear loose too....not to mention the left and right struts and upper strut bearings.

A cheap (China) tie rod may last only a year.(plastic inner wear points)
A good quality tie rod may last 10.(nylon and/or metal wear points)

Not that hard, just spray the tie rod sleeve with WD40 night before and let it soak in. Remove the collier pin and and nut and hammer the old inner tie rod end out of the Track rod with a 5 pound sledge hammer. Remove the inner tie rod end from the sleeve and don't forget to mark the distance so you can place the new tie rod end at the same length. Reinstall the inner tie rod end to the Track rod and tighten the nut and replace the collier pin with a new one. Grease the fitting and go for a test drive, if the truck does not wonder then your good to go with out a alignment. Good luck and hope this helps, Note, make sure you have to right inner tie rod ends. Each side has different thread rotations.

If this is a rack and pinion type steering, in order to remove the inner tie rods you will first have loosen the jam nut at the outer tie rod end,next unbolt the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle, unscrew the outer tie rod end off (be sure to count how many turns to remove), next remove the inner bellows boot (black boot) from the tie rod / rack and pinion, next is to unscrew the inner tie rod from the rack assembly (the do make a tool for this to make it easier) but if you do not have the tool,you can sometimes use a big pair of channel locks or a big enough wrench to fit on the fitting on the inside of the inner tie rod, and just unscrew the inner tie rod (normal left=loosen, right=tighten). Hope this helps. Would also recommend having it aligned after you are finished.

If it is the inner tie rod you are working on it need to be threaded out on some you can get with a wrench but most you will need an inner tie rod tool. Look at your replacement tie rod you will see the threads and two flat spots that is where the wrench goes. Please rate.