Need to remove fuse box to get to wire harness underneath

I don’t have a diagram handy but from my experience working on these there is a ground on the firewall just behind the intake manifold and right at the connector where the main wiring harness plugs into the harness for the coils there could be a bad connection in that connector. I’ve chased that problem for hours.

No. Brake light has nothing to do with that. You probably have some more damaged wires somewhere. Rats mice and squirrels can do major damage to wiring harnesses and often chew them in multiple places

Check the pink wire. It goes from the ignition switch to two circuits in the under-hood fuse box and the ignition coil. One circuit goes to ENG-1, ECM-1, IGN-E. The other circuit goes to GAUGES, FUSE 4, AIRBAG FUSE 10 and TURN/BU FUSE 16.

If all those fuses do not have power when the ignition switch is turned to start or run check the pink wire as it comes from the firewall connection. If you don't have power on the hood side, there may be a bad connection between the two halves of the connector.

If you do have power on the pink wire on the hood side of the firewall then you may have to check it between the coil to the firewall connector and underneath the under-hood fuse box.

I would use a tone tracer on the pink wire while the ignition switch is in the off position. (turning the switch off makes the wire only go in one direction, to the engine compartment) The tool sends a tone signal through the wire (in this case it would be hooked up to the pink wire) and has a receiver that lets you follow the tone in the wire without having to open the wire harness. You can just follow the wire harness and hear the tone signal. if there is a break in the wire or the connection is terminated somewhere in the circuit the tone will stop. Makes it a lot easier to trace a wire.

If you can hit on the blower motor housing and the motor starts, your brushes on the motor are bad and the blower motor needs to be replaced. Used tested unit $30.00 at a junkyard. New rebuild $54.00.

Many posts have stated that the dash must be removed to replace the blower motor. It can be done without removing the dash. I know as I replaced the blower motor on my kids 99 Durango last night but it took about 4 hours. Now that I know how to do it, it would estimate 2 hours.

Remove glove box by opening glove box all the way. Press inward on the both sides of the glove box to allow the rubber stops to clear the catches and lower the box The two outer hinges (plastic) will come off by slightly twisting the glove box upward leaving only the center hinge (plastic) in place. Reach in and push down on the hinge to pull out glove box. Set aside.

Remove side trim panel by pulling back carpet and remove one Phillips screw. Remove panel by pulling back on upper portion to remove clip from frame, then slide forward to remove from lower plastic trim.

Use 1/4" nut driver or socket to remove two screws holding vacuum canister on lower right side of blower shroud. Remove two vacuum hoses noting which hose goes to which side of the vacuum canister (both were green in color on my Durango). Disconnect connecting rod from vacuum canister to vent control by removing lock washer (you may be able to get away with not removing the rod, but the plastic "fin" may break if you stress it while removing the blower shroud.

Use 5/16 nut drivers/sockets with extensions to remove the blower shroud hex bolts. The hex bolts are located in several areas around the shroud (use your finger to follow shroud edges to locate all 8). Some of the hex bolts are very tricky and may require odd positioning of your body to locate and remove them.. I also put several extensions to use in order to reach the various hex bolts. Once the hex bolts are removed, pull the plastic blower shroud down exposing the blower motor squirrel cage.

Remove two of three hex nuts holding blower motor in place. Loosen the third one and the blower motor should come free. I was not able to remove the squirrel cage from the old motor so I broke the squirrel cage allowing me to expose the wire harness and grommet that went through the back of the shroud.

Feeding the wire harness back through the assembled wall appeared to be a real challenge, so I cut the green and black wires at the motor for splicing into the new motor later. Remove the motor and broken squirrel cage and throw the dam thing away.

Remove squirrel cage from new motor by removing retention clip with a pliers. Pull off the squirrel cage carefully by applying WD40 (or other lubricant) to the shaft. You may have to place two large screw drivers or other pry bars underneath the squirrel cage equally across the underside of the squirrel cage slowly prying up the cage. I accomplished this with a helper to hold the motor in place to allow equal pressure from both pry bars.

Cut green and black wires on new motor leaving enough wire to work in the tight area of the motor housing. Strip wires from old harness and new motor and apply **** splices for green to green and black to black. Add electrical tape for extra mechanical strength and insulation.

Place new motor into housing and secure the three mounting hex nuts. Turn on key and run blower to make sure it works. Install squirrel cage and retaining clip on motor shaft. Run again to make sure it works.

Install the balance of the items in the reverse order you removed them.

Good luck!

Now on to replace the rear wiper motor on the same Durango. Junkyard parts $54.00. Time: Unknown?

Check the right wiring diagram connections... 2002 Mercury Cougar 2.0 liter DOHC L4 VIN "3"



Also, I find few diagrams about Igniotn System...

Fig. Engine Ignition, Page 01 (2002, System overview)

Fig. Engine Ignition, Page 02 (2002, Duratec-VE)

Fig. Engine Ignition, Page 03 (2002, ZETEC-VCT)

Hope helps.

no, usually u cant clean up the ends of the chewed wires and get heat shrink tubing and put them back together

Hello tnvolsfan32,

Use the FREE drawing available on the
BBB Industries site to trace out your wiring...
BBB Industries Premium Alternators Starters Power Steering Products

First put the wires together that
DO PERFECTLY MATCH... Then go
back to the drawing and find out what
DEVICE, CONNECTOR or PLUG got
disconnected or swallowed.

Generally wires DON'T CHANGE COLORS
in a wiring harness run... So you definitely
need to look for a LOGICAL EXPLANATION.

Registration is required... these are real
wiring documents...

Each time you return from a WIRING page
make sure you have not
defaulted back into TSBs...
(technical service bulletins)... While usually
quite useful... they don't begin to address any
WIRE-EATING-DOG problems...

If you get confused comment me back...
I can recommend some great tools to help
SPLICE everything back together

Tone Tracer being PRIMARY
Extech TG20 Wire Tracer and Tone Generator Amazon com

Helpful hint: wire must be ISOLATED to trace correctly
(pulled fuse or chewed through works).

Hope this helps

Carnac the Magnificent

I bet that squirrel won't need any laxitaves for awhile. You are going to end up match and soldering, or just taping like color wires no mater what venue you take. The salvage yard is your best bet. Are you reffering to the area where the three relays are mounted?

Rataway fragrance stops odors caused
by rats, mice, squirrels, etc...
Makes one gallon when mixed
and protects the surface of areas used for nesting.

Rodents and other animals mark territory (your car, house, etc.) with their scent. Animals are attracted by this scent. Rataway fragrance gets rid of the scent. No lingering scent, no more attraction.

Rataway fragrance protects car engines, wiring, boats, motorhomes, machinery, heavy equipment, etc. when sprayed to protect the surfaces

Rataway fragrance is not a pepper spray.

If you are looking for an effective, natural control for odors, Rataway fragrance is it.

Again... Rataway fragrance can be used around children, pets, and service personnel.

What is Rataway Fragrance?Rataway fragrance is a spray that is very offensive to wild animals such as rats, mice, squirrels, rabbits, raccoons, dogs, cats, horses, skunks, and monkeys. Rataway fragrance is not offensive to humans.

I am going to say that you are really really most likely going to need a new connector. There are 2 ways of doing this: the cheap way and the expensive way. I will go over both.
Expensive; Call up your local toy dealership and see IF they will sell you just the connector. They will undoubtedly try and sell you a new harness- good luck. Same goes for parts stores.
Cheap; Go to your local auto salvage/ recycling place wit a pair of wire cutters and snip yourself off one about 3" from the base of the connector. Match the colors at home, do some splicing an voila! you now have A/C!!!!!! Once this is all said and done take your handy bottle of extra strength tobasco sauce, and rub it on your wires under the hood be careful as to not let the tobasco get into your connectors as that will cause them to short out and it's back to the scrapyard for you. If the tobasco does not work then try d- con stashed in your engine compartment. If that doesn't work then you are looking at hanging out for a day with a beer in one hand and your red ryder BB gun in the other. I wish you the best of luck and I hope this helps!