Question about 1991 Jeep Wrangler

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91jeep clutch quick pedal loss, barely shifts

I agree that one of the two cylinders has failed. There is no fluid loss at either end of the hydraulic system. Is there any good way to tell if it is my clutch master cylinder before I tear into the clutch, trans, throwout bearing etc.????

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Look inside the vehicle at the firewall where the clutch pedal rod goes into the master cylinder. See if there is fluid running down the inside firewall. Next look at the bottom of the bellhousing to see if fluid has been coming out of it. That will tell you if it's the master or slave cylinder. Most likely it is the slave leaking inside the transmission bellhousing.

Posted on Jun 07, 2009

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Need a clutch pedal diagram for a 1999 s10 2.2 4cyl manual trans


Sorry no diagram. But here is how it works. In the start position(Power) the wire goes to the start fuse, from the fuse it goes to the clutch pedal switch. Push the pedal and it goes to the starter relay. On the other end is ground. If it is good it pulls the relay closed. On the closed end is battery power to the starter.

Mar 09, 2016 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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My 1999 accord wont shift into gear while its on but will when its off its a 5 speed.


It's your hydraulic clutch system that probably isn't working. When you press the clutch pedal down, it causes the clutch master cylinder to put pressure in the line to the transmission's little "slave cylinder" that operates the clutch inside the transmission bell housing. This disengages the engine from the transmission so you can shift gears. It's probably not putting the slave cylinder to work by hydraulic pressure. The clutch master cylinder is mounted on the firewall, similar to the brake master cylinder, the clutch cylinder has a reservoir and you may need to add brake fluid to it. If it is dry, then you will need the system bled at the slave cylinder by a pro or someone who understands how. Pretty simple, really, just like bleeding brakes. Also the clutch master cylinder can develop internal leaks and this will lead to loss of clutch.

Nov 02, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I need to bleed the hydraulic clutch system


Your hydraulic clutch system is a wonderful smoothly operating method of engaging and disengaging the engine from the transmission. Most of the time. However, should you ever find the need to expel air from this hydraulic line...you may in for a long tedious experience.

I recently had to replace the master cylinder of my hydraulic clutch system. This was easily done as it comprised only one fluid line..and two bolts. Once the new master cylinder was mounted however, I found that air had gotten into the line..and adamantly refused to leave.

I undertook all of the common methods of removing this air but to no avail. I tried bleeding the system from the slave cylinder. I tried opening and closing the bleeder valve at the slave cylinder while someone pumped the clutch pedal for me. I tried using a vacuum pump to pull fluid and air out of the system. Each and every effort failed.

Air in a hydraulic line is a for certain way to insure that the hydraulic function will NOT occur. Air is compressible. A fluid is not. So when you place you foot on a brake pedal, or a clutch pedal and apply pressure, the non-compressing nature of that fluid, allows that fluid to behave as if there was an actual physical link in action. As an example..if there was a steel bar attached to your brake pedal..that would activate the brakes when you stepped on the brake pedal...that bar would be an actual, physical, material link..from pedal to brake shoe. A hydraulic line is very similar. When you step on the pedal..there is a force applied to the brakes..by the non compressing nature of the fluid..within that line...the force applied on that pedal, is instantly applied at the other end of that line...unless..there is air trapped within that line. The air will compress..stealing energy..and will not transmit the force applied.

I did a great deal of searching online trying to find a method of removing this air from my hydraulic clutch system and discovered some of what was causing the problem. The Bore of the piston inside the master cylinder is small...and the stroke or forward movement of that piston..is rather short. There just wasn't enough movement of fluid going on to force the air out of the system in a reasonable amount of time. But my search did bare fruit finally..I found a wonderful article on refilling a hydraulic clutch system..that eliminates air, takes only a very few minutes and is not at all expensive.

What you need is one of those oil cans that has a spout and a trigger that will squirt the oil for you. This trigger...should be of the type that requires your index and middle fingers to operate as opposed to a can that has a thumb trigger. You will also need a length of clear plastic tubing that will fit snugly over the end of the oil can's spout..and will also fit snugly over the end of the disconnected fluid line at the slave cylinder.

In practice..it's very easy. Remove the fluid line from the slave cylinder and allow the system to bleed out entirely. While that is going on, fill your oil can with fresh clean brake fluid. Attach the tubing to the spout..and once the system has bled out..attach the other end of the tubing to the fluid line. Start pumping...just regular timed pumps are needed. Not too fast. This fluid, coming in from the bottom..fills the system from the bottom..UP..and pushes any air right out through the master cylinder. Take a peek at the master cylinder every now and again. When you see it beginning to fill with fluid...go ahead and fill it completely with brake fluid. Slip under the vehicle, re-connect the fluid line, pop open the bleeder on the slave cylinder..watch for fluid to come out...tighten the bleeder close again..and you are finished.

Oct 20, 2012 | 2005 Fiat Doblo 1.9

1 Answer

I hardly have any clutch pedal and have to press it all the way to the floor to engage. Time for a new clutch?


Before condemning the clutch, check the clutch hydraulics. If the hydraulics are failing, the clutch it self could be fine. In your engine compartment, there should be two aluminum cylinders coming out of the fire wall. One will be attached to the brake booster and the other directy to the fire wall. Check the fluid level in the one at the fire wall. Top it off with Dot 3 brake fluid. CAUTION! Brakefluid will damage the paint on your car, so if you spill any on it or touch the surface with a fluid saturated rag, rinse it off with water!
If the fluid level is low, top it off and then pump the pedal rapidl rapiidly. It should come up to a normal height for a short period of time at which point you should be able to drive the car and see if the clutch it self feels normal, No slippage and no grinding of gears. The fluid loss is usually from the master cylinder. From inside the car, with a small light, follow the clutch pedal up to where the rod the pedal pushes can be seen entering the fire wall. Look for traces of fluid leaking out of the back of the cylinder. If the clutch master cylinder has failed, I usually recommend replacing the slave cylinder at the same time.

Aug 12, 2011 | 2005 Subaru Legacy

3 Answers

Clutch pedal feels like no pedal and won't shift


The clutch on this vehicle is hydraulicly operated and usually what happens is either the system develops a small leak and loses fluid or the seals inside the master or slave cylinder fail and won't allow enough pressure to build up to release the clutch. Start by checking the clutch master cylinder reservoir fluid level [located under the hood on the drivers side of the firewall] to make sure it is full. It holds only a few ounces of fluid so even a tiny leak will quickly deplete it. You could also have a clutch disc or pressure plate that has failed or fallen apart which would also give you the same symptoms.

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2 Answers

Loss of clutch pedal barely disengages at very


either the clutch is past its sell by date or the slave cylinder arm needs adjusting or the master cylinder needs replacing ,if its a cable it may need adjusting as well,if you are not sure how to go about this then ask a local mechanic if its possible to adjust the clutch ,if its easy they may not even charge you more than a cup of coffee

Apr 30, 2010 | 1992 Ford Ranger

2 Answers

1993 toyota paseo. When i depress the clutch theres no pressure


Your clutch hydraulic system is compromised. Look under the dash, where the clutch pedal has a rod going thru the firewall. If it is damp with oily fluid, your clutch Master Cylinder is leaking. Also, on the side of the transaxle, there is another cylinder, the clutch Slave Cylinder. It can be leaking, also. In any case, with a condition such as yours, I would recommend that you replace both the clutch master and slave cylinders. Over time, they can wear ionterally, and no develop the proper flui pressure to release the clutch.

Oct 19, 2009 | 1993 Toyota Paseo

1 Answer

No pressure clutch pedal goes straight to the floor 1988 holden r


If hydraulic actuated mechanism, loss of fluid, defective master cylinder or slave cylinder at the clutch. Missing pin or other part between slave cylinder and clutch arm. Loose or broken slave cylinder mounting. Missing pin or broken part between pedal and master cylinder. If mechanical linkage, look for broken components or missing pins at moving joints. If you tried to shift into gear with engine running, you may have damaged the transmission gears.

Aug 11, 2009 | 1993 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

Can't shift gears, Clutch pedal goes clear to the floor


add fluid then bleed the system by slackening of bleed screw at slave cylinder.Push pedal down close the bleed screw with the pedal down.and do so until the air as stoped coming out.If its been done before she has a leak at one of the cylinders

Jun 10, 2009 | 1991 Ford F250

3 Answers

Clutch goes to floor can't shift gears


bobby: what you are experiencing is a hydraulic failure. Either the clutch master cylinder, the slave cylinder or both have failed.
If you open the hood, look on the drivers side close the firewall.
There should be a white plastic cylinder with a cap on it.
Remove the cap and see of there is any fluid inside of it.
Note: The cylinder you are looking at has only one cap.
If the cylinder is low or empty, fill it with DOT 3 brake fluid
Look at the cylinder and you should see a line which attaches to the end of it. Follow the line down into the engine compartment.
It should travel over to a flexible hose which will go over to a smaller part on the transmission. Look at the hose and the part on the transmission, checking them for fluid loss. If you see no signs of leaks, get in the car and start pumping the clutch pedal. If the fluid loss was slow, the pedal will come back up, but it will be spongy.
If you look from inside the car, under the dash, follow the clutch pedal up to the place where you see a metal rod connecting to it. Follow the metal rod to the fire wall. Look and see if there are signs of fluid loss from there. You will need to get the air out of the hydraulics if you had just restored the pedal.
If so, the master cylinder will need to be replaced. Usually, I suggest replacing bothe master and slave cylinders because they are the same age and have the same wear and tear.

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