How much pressure should be in fuel bowl on 7.3 diesl

if the carburetor keeps flooding out, the float could be stuck in the up position. tap lightly on & around fuel reservoir to free. depending on age of carburetor, you might need to put in a carburetor kit.

If this situation occurs after a period of time then check the tank vent correctly at the vent valve on top of the tank. If it occurs reasonably quickly then check the fuel return lines from the injectors to the tank for obstruction ,kinks ,squashed etc preventing the fuel free access to the tank. check the pressure regulator to the pump is holding sufficient pressure to maintain pressure to the pumpin the pump

at WOT? too? wide open throttle or just cruise up.?
i can do carbs, 50 years. expr.
1; CHOKE OFF, or it floods. and stalls.
2: float level too low,
3: fuel pressure too low , causing # 2
4: fuel pressure too high causing flooding.
(or float valve stuck open do to bad or too much fuel pressure !!!)
5: main jet filthy ( are not all,that way by now?)
6: power jet dead.
7: air emulsion tubes or jets, clogged.

the trick is to find out , IS IT too lean, or too rich, (or spark bad)
bad spark plugs just head hills. (they love to fail old under higher pressures)
so spark is first, no carb on earth works with bad spark
can burn gas with out perfect spark and timing. of it.

there are tests to do that finds the Rich /lean truth.
i use hand held propane gas, i crack the valve on the fly
and if power returns, its lean.
if not , its not lean. but maybe too rich.
for rich , (no 5gas dyno or wideband 02 bung)

i read spark tips, like the olden days. (fun for some)
in fact we'd fly up a hill, and park fast. stalling engine,
fast, and then pulling spark plug (any) is it black or white.
white, lean
black is rich missing.
love my wide band sensor, no more doing that. (a tool)

ive also done same and checke float levels. oops got bad fuel
even algae or rust in fuel bowl.
i cut the ignition on the fly and found bowl near dry.
bingo, fuel starvation
took a new gas tank to fix this car. (or total refurb)

its a carb, and as such only needs to have a constant float bowl level.
Te sami pump runs a regulator built in, you test that with a pressure gauge.
one side?
did you read the FSM on topic>
here
http://www.acksfaq.com/sitemap.htm
see chapter 4 on carb and pump
the carb has only one input, and that is fuel line to the float valve.
the pump , however does have a loop,
that is because it has a regulator and returns unused fuel to the tank,
kinda like EFI does.

The pump has 3 nipples, 1 suction port. and 2 pressure ports.
1 pressure port is the return line an the other is carb.
the return tube is the top tube of the pair.
the pressure reg holds pressure at 3 to 7 PSI
if the float bowl stays at spec level at all times, even full engine load.
then the pump ,float and valve all work as designed.
that leaves, carb internal problems/
never blame a carb , if the distributor adavance, parts are stuck.
check advance first. then tune carb.

is the needle opeoning on the float in the carb? The fuel bowl should be about half full all the time. As fuel pressure flows into the needle & seat, it fills the fuel bowl until the float pushes the needle into the eat. Sometimes the rubber tipped needle can stick in the seat.

Holley carb? Autolite carb? Holley 4160?

Have you serviced the fuel filter/water/seperator/heater? P0093 could also refer to the possibility you filled the truck up with fuel when it was running setting that code. The code for fuel pressure is derived at the rail delivery on a Duramax, again check the fuel filter, or there is a obvious leak somewhere. Hard to tell without looking at it, but start there. Is fuel cap sealing, look at O ring in cap make sure it is not degraded or missing. Other than that could be pump (delivery) for fuel, costly. Look for wetness from the tank, lines, pump, etc...

It has a fuel transfer pump (low pressure) May be mounted on the engine block next to fuel filter housing or it could be in the tank, depending if it has been updated, Came from factory on block, but later updated to intank> Fuel transfer pump pressure should be at least 8 psi> the injection pump then raises pressure to open injectors. May have to replace transfer pump first or you could possibly have a plugged fuel filter. Do you have any smoke coming from tailpipe while cranking?
Injection pump failure is a common problem. The diafragm breaks inside the injection pump if you run low transfer pump pressure> This causes the timing to be off thus no start. Really best to have it towed to experienced diesl tech. He can get you the right answers rather than just replacing parts, Can get in your wallet real quick,

Two things to check. Fuel pressure, and is the carb. bowl very clean. Sometimes if there is dirt in the bowl, and when you go up hill, the dirt shifts back and blocks the fuel flow. When you open the carb. blow out the bowl and jets. The float level if set correctly will not do this.

I take it you have a crank no start issue, the fuel is injected by high pressure oil, no oil pressure no start, there are 2 oil pumps, low lube pressure and high injection control pressure (ICP) the injection system is hydraulic controls electric actuated fuel injection, if when you crank the engine over and the oil pressure guage goes up base pressure is ok, then its high pressure or the best thing I can say is pull codes and that can give me a good direction to send you in, there are many things that can cause that problem, if the fuel heater shorts out, the pcm and it are on the same 30amp circuit causin the same problem and still you would have proper fuel pressure readings.

yes or the air filter is blocked test you fuel pressure regulator