Hotwire car I have made a bad mistake. I was trying to find out why my ignition would come on when I was away from the truck and draining my battery. No key in ignition truck locked. So back to my real problem. I have gone to far and tried to see if the problem was in the electical switch behind the ignition. Well I took it apart and parts and berrings went flying in the yard ...cant find them. Now I am stuck and can not get anywhere. I need to know how to Hotwire the ignition wires. I tried a few times to figure it out but could not get it to work. Pls help if possible . I might just be walking for awhile .

replace the ignition switch --bypassing hotwiring is movie magic and trying does more damage

What year , make and model vehicle ? Vehicles from 1996 on have several control moduels - PCM / ECM - engine computer , ABS , air bag's , BCM - body control module etc.. plus a few more , maybe . This module are suppose to power down after 1 hr or longer sometimes . Sometimes they don't an drain the battery down . The way to find for sure what the problem is a parasitic drain testing , hooking up a amp meter an pulling fuse's till the drain goes away . How To Perform Parasitic Draw Test EricTheCarGuy It's probably not the ignition switch .

You may have 1 of 2 issues,
Assuming the battery is good with your quote "Has power"

1. You may have an ignition barrel problem, with the key in the run position and using the workshop manual you can try to "hotwire" your car. If the hot wire works then your barren is faulty and will need to be replaced.

2. If hot wire does not start you could have a starter motor issue where instead of turning over its draining power, some stater motor fails can be noisy loud grinding sounds and such.
But they can just drain power without even a click.

There is a 3rd option it is possible that the battery although full powered in voltage, it may not have the cranking amps to start.. To test this try to jump start with another car . this is probably the easiest thing to check first.
Good luck

Ebay

no crank
did you first try a live hot jumper cable crank? off a live donor car.
AAA Tow style.?
USING REAL JUMPER CABLES, not china tin foil?l
that be first. ok it always cranks , that means the battery is dead, not charged,or the alternator is shut down or you have phantom drains.

if the battery known good, and charged
we can hotwire the starter, if that works the starter is good.
if not bad.
if it hot wires ok that means the key line is dead.

this is how this is done,
if key line dead, wiggle that silly slushpump shifter lever or try cranking in neuTRAL.
OR HIT STARTER CASING WITH HAMMER 3 TIMES(3 FOR LUCK) CRANK NOW.?

THIS WORKS ON ALL AT CARS.

MY CAR: (X3)
m/t CAN PUSH START, IT , AND GRAVITY START IT.
AND SHORT THE CLUTCH SWITCH TO FIX BAD KEY LINE;.

If all this ok the ignition switch can be bad, or bad power distribution can not teach in 1min.

probably the starter is burned, and the anti theft system is activated. best bet is to have it towed since it is still new and insurance can still deal with it

You won't be able to hotwire it due to the passlock antitheft system. Read about it in this link.
http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

May be the battery of your car is got completely drained. sometimes by mistake any of the car lights or ac or any battery consuming accessory remains on.And due to this battery gets completely drained and due to no voltage in battery the car does not start.In some cases the car does not gets turned off.If there is a problem in ignition switch circuit and this also drains the battery.Get the car battery voltage checked.It should be 12 volt if the battery is properly charged.This will let you know what is the problem .Also check the battery connections if its got loose then this can happen.------------- Thanks.

Tell us more details.
For example, how do you know the alternator really is good?
You say new "ignition", but that could be the ignition switch, plug wires, distributor, etc.
Regardless if the battery was new, you can easily drain the battery in less then 20 minutes, so we need to know if the battery still has a charge or not. Put a test light or volt meter across it.
We also need to know if it does nothing, not even drain the lights, or if it clicks at the solenoid?
The best would be if you put a voltmeter across the battery.
If the ignition switch is bad, then nothing at all with happen.
If the battery is bad, it will start around 12 volts, but drop down below 9 and not come back up when you stop trying.
It is drops but comes back up, it is probably the starter.
But you could try turning the engine over by hand on the alternator nut, because it could be seizing up from a bad bearing.
Try jump starting it also.
If that helps, then check the voltage when reved up.
It if does not reach over 13.5 volts, the alternator is not working.

Try hotwiring the solenoid on the starter. Suspect you have a bad solenoid. If hotwire works, problem is in wiring or ignition switch.