Rebuilding a 1981 AMC 258 motor - Need modification advice

sorry there were no GC until 1993, so post real car, and real year, and model. is this a typo, 2001 ????
which engine? we cant guess that. or your country, is this and EXPORT JEEp, the FSm has many pages, usa, and export for each engine,not one that i can guess, unstated.
the under hood had a vacuum map, but in 1981, ahhhhhhhh, not sure. (open hood look up and under see EPA vac,map)
1981 is a carb, good luck fixing carbs. huh, finding kits on some are H3LL on earth today, for some engines.
our free books go back to 1993 only
why not (best advice there is) get the 1981 FSM used off Ebay
and have all the answers, ok?

repost real car and we can get any diagram with engine and country stated (usa or export)
is this a AMC car, and a real JEEP?
AMC invented the first Cherokee and no GC EVER.

read the wiki on GC (quote)
The Grand Cherokee's origins date back to 1983 when American Motors Corporation (AMC) was designing a successor to the smaller Jeep Cherokee (XJ).[3] Three outside (non-AMC) designers-Larry Shinoda, Adam Clenet, and Giorgetto Giugiaro-were also under contract with AMC to create and build a clay model of the Cherokee XJ

very very old post
ok i figured your old post out.
you posted a 1981 SJ jeep to jeep grand cherokee section.
this is the early Cherokee and is not grand. 1995+
with no engine stated, wow)
ill not try to guess the engine.
here they are...
258 cu in (4.2 L) AMC I6
360 cu in (5.9 L) AMC V8 2-barrel
360 cu in (5.9 L) AMC V8 4-barrel
401 cu in (6.6 L) AMC V8 4-barrel

made in USA or Australia, ill guess USA

the vacuum setups vary by carb used
and if FED usa or Calif USA setups
fed was called 49 state back when...
and there is the high altitude versions.
and std or HD cooling versions (huge list of vacuum setups, if you want look in alldata.com and behold.
omg one more the Canada version.... (ill skip export versions)
calif versions are huge complex....

so ill guess the 360 2 barrel,

P/S on the motor 232 or a 258

well what was told is that my1984 eagle stationwagon, that if the 4x4 does not engage it is due to vacuum lines from the motor and the trany. these lines dry out and crack and vibration causes them to crack and the tight spots there in does not let you see or fix them to easy.

mcdevito75 here, The proper rebuilding kit for your carb. will contain all the info you need. NOW! if you can still get the re-building kit as many have stopped produceing these kits.

If this excessive swaying is due to worn suspension then those worn parts will be tie-rods, shock struts, anti roll bars and the rubber bushings holding the various parts of the suspension in place. General suspension overhaul would be required.
Now if its a normal feature of the vehicle you can improve the handling by fitting harder anti roll bars(sway bars), stiffer shocks, custom tie rods, better quality rubber bushes (polyurethane) and by lowering the suspension with shorter stiffer springs.
I suggest searching for an owners club for your vehicle where you should find some people who are doing the same thing and get advice from those who have been there before - --- You can ruin a cars handling and make it quite dangerous by changing things around, I suggest you search for suspension modification and do a quick 101 of the do's and dont's of suspension modification before you start swapping parts.

The a/c can be bypassed. When you go to the auto parts store tell them you want the belts for that engine without a/c. They can look it up in a book and get a part number that will give you the right belts. Hope this helps.

Hi there,
The Gates Corporation,s website;
http://www.gates.com/index.cfm
will help you identify which belts & hoses fit your vehicle, or any vehicle as long as you know what engine is in it!
Cheers, Stevie-RayG

Depends how much of a power increase you want. For street use I would buy a header, carb and intake, cam, lifters and valve springs, in that order. Upgrade theignition if you can afford it. More (higher numerically) gear in the differential will work wonders! I'd suggest something in the mid 3's. 3.55, etc. Keep the shift point under 6000 rpm. I drag race a 72 Gremlin with a 401, so if you need any more AMC help, let me know.

Any quality gasket from any parts store will work.