Will not start

Is it carved or efi??If efi do this::locate your throttle body,pull the air intake hose loose from the throttle body,spray starting fluid or carb cleaner into the throttle body opening, push the hose back onto the throttle body then try to start the car.If it starts & runs for a few seconds then dies,you've got a No Fuel problem.If it doesn't start at all,you've got a No Spark problem.If its a no fuel issue,turn the key on & listen for the fuel pump priming sound.If you don't hear it,check for a blown fuel pump fuse,defective fuel pump relay,a defective computer power relay or a tripped inertia switch.If they're OK,disconnect the harness at the fuel pump,turn the key on and use a voltmeter to test for battery voltage.If voltage is present,the pump is bad.If voltage isn't present,but its present at the fuel pump relay harness, there's most likely a short/open in the wiring harness between the FP relay & pump.You didn't list your vehicle info,so I'm unsure of which type ignition you've got.
Most no starts on a new engine are caused by a ground wire you forgot to connect,wiring harness not plugged in or a timing issue.

If it turns, then the battery is OK. Either spark plugs are not firing in proper order (wrong firing order), no power to spark plugs, or no fuel because of fuel restrictions (dirty fuel filter). Inspect the air filter to ascertain its not clogged air. If you smell gas, then you saturated the spark plugs, which is why it refuses to run.
Let it sit for half hour to let spark plugs dry. Inspect to ascertain its not dirty spark plugs, which will also prevent engine from running. After ascertaining its proper firing order, spark plugs are clean, and there's power to distributor cap, ascertain there's fuel in fuel lines by squirting half second (short squirt) of starting fluid into air filter. Close the air filter housing to trap flammable starting fluid gas. Turn engine without giving throttle. Let starting fluid be ignited by spark plugs. If it won't start, then spark plugs are not firing to ignite starting fluid gas. If it starts briefly, but won't run when you give throttle, but catches when a 2nd person squirts more starting fluid into air filter just before engine stalls, then its a fuel restriction issue or no fuel in fuel lines.

Car not starting or turning over indicates towards multiple possibilities. It can be issue with battery or weak battery. But if battery checks out ok, then it can be starter issue or faulty alternator or problem with low fuel pressure or no spark at spark plugs due to dirty spark plugs or faulty ignition coil or injectors getting cracked or dirty and needs to be cleaned.

To confirm the problem, the basic troubleshooting is required.

From start to end troubleshooting these problems I suggest you to check the help link below and follow its procedure: -----

Mostly all types of car no start problems are discussed here with solutions:--------

CAR NO START: ENGINE NOT TURNING OVER:
http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/11/car-no-start-engine-not-turning-over.html

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These will help.
Thanks,.

I take it that it cranks over but will not start. Spray some starter fluid into the throttle body. If it runs, you have a fuel problem. You may have disconnected the fuel system by unplugging a connector or grounding a wire blowing a fuse.

The ecm receives a signal from the crankshaft position sensor and sends timing signals to the ignition control module, whick fires the coil. The problem can be the crank sensor or the control module. The crank sensor is inside the distributor. I have pasted a test procedure below to help you troubleshoot.
1994-95 ACCORD EXCEPT V-6
See Figures 8 and 9
Remove the distributor cap, rotor and the inner cover.Disconnect the wires from the igniter.Check for voltage between the black/yellow wire and ground. Battery voltage should be present with the ignition ON . If voltage is not present, check the black/yellow wire between the ignition switch and the igniter.


Fig. Fig. 8: Terminal identification on engines without VTEC
Check for voltage between the green wire ("BLU 2" on VTEC) and ground. Battery voltage should be present with the ignition ON . If voltage is not present, check the ignition coil and the green ("BLU 2" on VTEC) wire between the ignition coil and the igniter.


Fig. Fig. 9: Terminal identification on VTEC engines
Turn the ignition switch OFF .Check the yellow/green wire between the engine control module and the igniter for continuity. Then check the BLU 1 wire between the tachometer and the igniter for continuity.If the wiring is OK and a problem still exists, the igniter is probably at fault.
Vtec engine



Non -vtec engine

Try this tips:
1. Check the battery voltage at the battery with the digital volt/ohm meter. Set the meter to "Volts D/C" and touch the black meter lead to the negative battery post and the red meter lead to the positive post. A fully charged battery will measure 12.7 volts or more. A measurement of 12.5 volts is considered discharged, and the battery should be charged before any further testing. Any measurement below 11 volts indicates a severely discharged battery--the battery is most likely damaged and should be replaced. If the battery measures above 12.7 volts, proceed to the next step.

2. Check the starter for battery voltage by touching the red (positive) meter lead to the battery cable terminal on the back of the starter and the black (negative) lead to the chassis. The voltage reading should be approximately the same as the measurement at the battery. If the reading is lower than battery voltage, check for bad connections at the cables on the battery and the starter or ground cable.

Check for ignition switch signal at the purple wire on the back of the starter. When the key is turned to the "Start" position this wire should measure battery voltage. If the reading is less than battery voltage, or zero volts, check the fusible links (orange wires) on the back of the starter. If the fusible links are intact and not burned or broken, replace the ignition switch. If battery voltage is present at the purple wire, and the starter doesn't turn, replace the starter. If the voltage measurements at the starter are correct, and the starter cranks the engine over when the key is turned to the start position, proceed to the next step.

3. Remove the air duct attached to the throttle body, and spray a liberal amount of the carburetor spray into the throttle body. Replace the hose, and try to start the engine. If the engine starts, the fuel pump is not supplying fuel or the ignition module is not pulsing the injectors. Check the fuel pump fuse located in the under-hood fuse block. If it is good, check for power at the fuel pump electrical connector located near the rear of the fuel tank on the driver's side of the van. In the Chevy Astro van, power is supplied to the fuel pump by the the gray wire on the electrical connector when the engine is being cranked. If power is supplied, hitting the fuel tank with the flat side of a hammer while someone else is turning the ignition key to start will sometimes bump the fuel pump enough to allow it to start. If the fuel pump checks good, proceed to the next step.

4. Check for spark. Disconnect the coil wire at the ignition coil, and try to start the engine. If no spark occurs, replace the coil and ignition module. If a strong spark occurs, plug the wire back in, and remove a spark plug wire from a spark plug and repeat the test. If a spark is not present, replace the spark plug wires, and distributor cap and rotor.


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take the head off bent valves thats for sure

Free Auto Repair Advice by Professional Mechanics




Troubleshooting / Car Engine Cranks but Will Not Start / Engine Crank But Wont Start 2

* Why does my engine stall at idle?
* How do I change my spark plugs?
* Why does my engine stall?
* Why does the engine stall after replacing the battery?
* Why won't my engine crank over?
* How to retrieve trouble codes
* How to test fuel delivery system
* Engine cranks excessively
* Engine has excessive smoke
* Rapid ticking sounds when engine is cranked
* How to tune up your engine
* How to jump start your engine
* How to test an oxygen sensor
* How to open a car hood
* How a flywheel - flex plate works

Engine Cranks But Will Not Start

For an engine to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run. Follow the repair guide below:


Engine Configuration with Camshaft Operation

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Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
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Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.
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Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (engine control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.

If your engine cranks but does not start follow this troubleshooting guide:
* Step 1 - Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test ok continue to the next step.
* Step 2 - To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test ok a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running. The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is ok with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.
* Step 3 - The spark plugs in your engine are used to ignite the compressed fuel air mixture. If the condition of the spark plugs are fouled by excessive fuel or carbon the engine will not start, backfire or run rough. Remove all spark plugs to inspect their condition. Please use this spark plug condition reference guide to see how the spark plugs are operating.
* Step 4 - Determine if the engine has compression, this can be done a number of ways but the most complete method is to perform a compression check. Remove the spark plugs and perform a compression test on one cylinder. If one cylinder has compression then the remaining cylinders usually will be close to the same. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds, normal compression readings should be between 125 psi and 160 psi on each cylinder. If no or little compression exists additional tests will be needed. The most common reason for an engine to lose compression is a timing belt or timing chain failure. If low or no compression exists remove the oil fill cap and observe camshaft rotation when the engine is cranked over. If no rotation exists the timing belt or chain has failed. If your engine has a timing belt and you cannot see the camshaft easily remove the upper bolts to the timing cover and gain visual access to the belt, recheck cam rotation by cranking the engine over. Sometimes a timing belt or chain can jump causing the camshaft to lose correlation with the crankshaft and therefore causing low compression. The best test for this condition is to remove the timing belt/chain cover and inspect timing marks. If the compression is ok proceed to next step.
* Step 5 - Test the ignition system output, ignition systems can vary in configuration but operate on the same principal. Ignition systems can consist of a coil, pick up coil, crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, ignition rotor and a distributor and any variations of these components. An ignition coil is a voltage stepper coil that transforms a low voltage (12 volts) signal into tens of thousands of volts needed to jump the gap of the spark plug. This coil is activated by an ignition module triggered by using the camshaft/crankshaft angle sensor; timing is adjusted by the ECM (computer).

Hope helps (remember rated and comment this).

Good battery, good starter. Leaves spark and fuel.
1. Remove 1 spark plug wire from a plug. Hold near engine block while someone "cranks" the engine.
- Spark (yes/no)
If yes, issue is fuel. If no, remove distributor cap and check for cracks. Also clean inside to remove rust and dirt. Besure that inside of distributor cap is reasonably clean and rust free. After that, reinstall cap.
Try to start engine. IF it is exactly same symptom.....
Check input voltage to coil (high voltage source for distributor). Is 12volts present? If not, troubleshoot wiring between battery source and coil. Be sure to include the fuse for "ignition" in fuse box.
If yes.....Confirm high voltage is present at center (input) wire to distributor (CAUTION:- 30,000 volts could be present... do NOT touch bare wire.) Use insulated plyers or similar to place this center wire near engine block to check for spark. Note that this voltage source is powered on as soon as the ignition key is in the "run" position.

Replace coil if no high voltage is coming out. Replace distributor cap and rotor if high voltage is coming in to it, but not leaving and getting to spark plugs.

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Confirm fuel is getting to intake.
I spray starting fluid into intake while cranking engine. It will "fire" if all else is good.
If it "pops" or fires, then you have a fuel feed problem... between tank and intake manifold, shoot fuel filter, fuel pump and otherwise confirm that gas is moving to intake from gas tank.

Good luck.

1. Check the spark plug gaps. It should be adjusted
to the thickness of a hacksaw blade.
2. You replace almost all of the ignition parts but not
the hi-tension cables of the plugs and the coil.
Have this replaced.
3. Check all the plug for sparks. Sparks must be blue
in color to indicate good voltage to burn the fuel
and run your engines.
4. When everything in the ignition is working, check
the fuel at the carb if it has a good spray.
5. Check the air-fuel adjuster at the carburetor. From
full close position, turn 2-1/2 full turns counter
clockwise.
6. Then, start your engines and go.