Replaced lots of parts on this truck sat for 5 years , listed what parts are directly related to this issue , but truck starts and idles fine give throttle bogs down as if its flooding, not safe to dr
91 sonoma (s15) 2wd 5 speed, new pump, filter , injectors, cap , rotor, iac, fuel reg, spark wires, ran fine for about two weeks then started to die at lights then now as i drive, back fires through in take , starts up fine and idles good give it throttle bogs down as if flooding im good with cars and mechanics, but this has gotten me aggrivated i cant afford throwing many more parts and i work at a parts store ironically but im also a student and i need this vehicle to run dont like my grandmother having to pick me up and run me all over all the time , makes me worry about her, any ideas ?
The fuel pump should be in the 20s. Also it could be losing presure slowly. Leave the fuel pump pressure gage on for at least 2 to 3 hours to see if it is losing pressure - It's a start
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
no car told maker or model or engine size.
there are lots causes that, hard starts
if spark good and strong and even HV spark wire sets fresh.
the short list.
bad fuel
too much fuel cranked and floods
IAC bad, idle air valve stuck and wants to flood cold.
cold idle is the big clue, where too low. IAC failing
EGR sticking open at idle. possible.
if you press gas Pedal, at 5% (about) and starts easy and likes that until it worms up that means the IAC is dead.
I stop here lots more, no car told.
all cars modern EFI is it EFI> have IAC and ISC valves 1 or both.
and if stuck idle fails. hot or cold.
no car told why post like that 100 year of cars and 10,000 engines.
????
If you changed the carburetor make sure the main jets are correct , check the timing advance , with i timing light set the ignition timing then rev up the engine and not the degrees of advance .also check the air filter if not replaced .
As it runs well using an ether spray it is unlikely to be timing or ignition related and most likely fuelling.
Take a basics first approach and ensure the following are all good before moving on.
Check the fuel pressures, check the delivery rate and check the injectors.
torque converter i would start with 2 years is a long time the jump ive experienced and this is a simple fix 10-40 dollar tranny sensors when the sensors go bad they give a bucking sensation check transfilter for metal shavings your engine should be fine as you stated it sat for 2 years warner mystery oil and a couple quicker tune up oil changes give that a shot your engine has to work its self back make sure no oil mixing in with water from radiator this can give a jump if too much fluid in engine seals do go bad from sitting
This post may be an old post, but I figured I'd post my findings in case anyone is still fighting the good fight.
My vehicle:
2008 Honda Accord 2.4L EX-L
Codes: P062f p060a p2610 p2118
Hard starting when cold or sitting for over 25 min. Otherwise would start fine and drive fine with no issues until next start.
Process:
Replaced battery, no change
Sent Pcm (ecu) for repair/service. ECU came back with no errors or damage found. No change.
Replaced throttle body, no change.
Cleaned map and maf sensors, no change. (This fixed issue for someone so figured I would inspect.)
Replaced FTP, code went away, but no change.
*Note: During idle, I noticed a minimal sputter. Almost not audible.
Researched more, and one person mentioned they changed the spark plugs and that fixed their car.
So, I produce a list of all possible fuel/Ignition related possibilities for hard start/idle sputter.
Spark plugs
Ignition coils
Injectors
Fuel pump
As for me, I replaced the fuel injectors, ignition coils, and fuel pump about 2 years ago. And due to covid my car was almost not driven for the last 2 years. So, I removed them as possibilities for me. That left spark plugs.
I bought some NGK iridium plugs and replaced them. Old plugs were worn. (See pictures). This resolved my issues. No more cell lights, hard start, or idle sputter.
Definitely do your due diligence, but I'd say definitely go in this direction if your symptoms sound like mine did.
Good luck, everyone.
Give me the year make and model, engine size and standard or auto trans? Sound like you have a fuel issue to me. Perhaps a faulty fuel injector(S). Let me know the specs...cheers!
×