1997 GMC Jimmy Logo

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Anonymous Posted on Dec 07, 2017

So much going on??

4x4 97 jimmy... lots going on, tempature keeps going way up when it happens it will blow cold air, check gage light keeps going on, there is a noise like a hampster is on its wheel squeeky, wheel feels tough to steer, and our interior lights do not work inside when opening the door, but will if turn switch on self????

1 Answer

Douglas M Burch

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  • GMC Master 1,001 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 07, 2017
Douglas M Burch
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Just get the service and repair manual from the given link and solve all the problem http://toolsnyou.com/

5 Related Answers

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 03, 2008

SOURCE: gmc yukon XL cabin lights do not working with the doors open.

This is related to the body control module, take it to the dealer and have it function tested.

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Nov 09, 2008

SOURCE: 200 gmc jimmy st heater

Had similar problem in my 2000 Jimmy. No hot air from heater. Had the shop (Midas) disconnect heater hoses at the fire wall and blow out the heater core with air hose. Got rust and junk blown out. Hooked up and flushed system with new anti freeze. Got lots of heat now.

Anonymous

  • 3 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 12, 2009

SOURCE: 99 gmc sonoma heater only blows cold air.The inside gage reads150

Odds are your heater core isn't working or plugged. Check your passenger floorboard for water, and replace the heater core. If that doesn't fix it, get a coolant system flush.

kipmartin428

  • 22 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 02, 2010

SOURCE: 99 gmc denali dash light, parking lights, tail

You have a short to ground somewhere in the drl-fog lamp circuit. Check for obvious wiring connector or wiring to drl & fog lamps. check wiring for pinched or broken wires coming from sockets. If you don't find problem, you can trace wiring from lamps to main harnesses and hopefully find source of short.
hope this helps.

Ronnie Gordon

  • 27 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 21, 2010

SOURCE: 2000 Jimmy feels like its floating and lot of play

Hi.. All of the above need checked plus track rods and ends, steering box play, steering column linkages,also at the wheels check the wheel bearings for excessive play and finally the ball joints holding the hub casings. I hope this info is of some help to you please let me know..
Regards Ronnie.

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0helpful
1answer

4x4 97 jimmy... lots going on, tempature keeps going way up when it happens it will blow cold air, check gage light keeps going on, there is a noise like a hampster is on its wheel squeeky, wheel feels...

The first thing to check Amy is your coolant level under the hood. the temp is going up because of low coolant, the loss of heat is because its too low to circulate. with the engine running ,lift the hood and see if your sound is coming from a water pump or a pulley. The last thing is your dome light, it will be a door switch. try your passenger door and see if your light comes on.
tip

Nice tip! I replaced my heater core about a year ago so I don't really think...

f041a09.jpgWhen dealing with a clogged heater core causing poor or no heat situation, I've had good success doing it myself, for about $25-$30 . First thing to look at is if you can get to your heater hoses, as some may be a nightmare, others are easily accessible, but the closer you can get to the heater core, where the hoses go into the firewall, the better. Many will allow you to remove the heater hoses right at the firewall which is ideal.
With engine cool, I simply remove the heater hoses (after draining down the system and making sure I don't spill antifreeze on the ground where animals can get to it, which if ingested could more than likely kill them), and attach a drill pump, and hose to one of the heater core tubes, then get an extra piece of garden hose, and attach it to the other core tube, and cut it long enough to run it back into a pail, as a return line, to recover the cleaning solution. The hose on the suction side of the drill pump also goes in to the pail. Then add 1 or 2 jugs of CLR, (calcium, lime, rust remover) available at most hardware stores, into the pail as my cleaning solution. With pressure side hose from pump attached to heater core tube, and other hose(suction) from pump inside pail to draw liquid, as well as return hose from core in pail, start up the drill pump, which can be driven with electric, or cordless drill. I circulate it through for a while, then stop and let it sit in the core to work at the calcium etc inside the core for a few minutes, longer the better. After running it through a few times that way, I reverse the hoses at the core, and run it through again, like a reverse flush, and repeat as above, letting it sit in there for a while from time to time. I will normally do this when it isn't urgent that the vehicle be used soon, and if at all possible, I will let the CLR sit in the core overnight just to give it that extra time to break things down inside that core. Then next morning, I will run it through again, and reverse hoses again, run it some more, then I'm done. Remove all hoses, re-attach heater hoses to core, and start vehicle, re-fill cooling system, with heater turned on to remove air in system, and your done. I found this quite effective as well on vehicles that tend to blow cooler air when idling, but get warmer when RPM's are increased, just due to less restriction now in heater core, allowing coolant to flow through better at idle as well as higher RPM's. I've saved $100's if not $1000's of dollars this way, not to mention a lot of aggravation trying to change the heater core. Even if it doesn't get you back to the heat you were getting when vehicle was new, if money is tight, or your just trying to make the vehicle last a little longer before your ready to replace it, this will probably get you the heat you need to get you through until it's warmer outside. If you can't get to the hoses at the firewall location, try following them back toward engine to a location that may be easier to work from. There you would want to buy a couple of "Barbed" fittings (Joiners) the proper size to enable you to cut heater hoses, attach hoses from pump, then re-attach heater hoses together when done. Be sure to get good quality fittings, and re-check for leaks after/occasionally, to be sure. Be sure to check also, that there isn't some type of valve restriction or whatever in the hose between where your planning on cutting hose and the heater core where it's attached, that will not allow flow through, as well as out on return hose. Be sure to store or dispose of cleaning solution (CLR) in a safe place. It does have other cleaning abilities, as labeled on the jug, and a simple coffee filter in a funnel, to filter out the debris from core and poured back into jugs will allow you to re-use it elsewhere, but if you do, please remember it has been contaminated with antifreeze, and if re-used for cleaning or whatever, make sure it's not an application where it may be ingested by animals, or humans. Best bet for safety sake, is to dispose of it properly to avoid that risk. Good luck to all who try it, and please keep me/us informed of results.
on Apr 04, 2010 • Dodge Cars & Trucks
0helpful
1answer

2008 V6 3.9 pontiac montana still over heating

Hi, Yes you have an air lock in your system, you may get this sorted by 1/. Removing one of the cooling hoses & try to blow with air.
2/. Drain all the system then put your heater on inside the vehicle & have the engine running & refill the system Start to do this from a cold engine. Please leave me feed back: Malcolm Campbell, Thanks.
0helpful
1answer

My heater isnt working, the temperature gage flucuates, and it keeps telling me it has low coolant even though I just added coolant

low coolant sensor is probably just dirty. cold air could also indicate n air bubble in the line. could also be thermostat. try that first.
2helpful
1answer

2001 Alero- heat gage does not show heat tempature. Blows warm air.Engine felt cold after a 50 mile trip. Out side tempature 20 degrees fernaheight.

with winter being here you might want to consider having a new thermostat put in to increase the heat in side,but make sure your radiator is full when engine is cold
1helpful
1answer

Heater blowing cold air, 4 babies really need heat....

Your heater core could be blocked. Check the hoses going to it on the inside of the engine compartment. There will be 2 5/8' heater hoses going into firewall adjacent to one another. The tempature of these hoses should be almost the same after your van has reached normal operating tempature and your temp select switch is on hot(heat). If not it's a good idication your heater core may have some blockage in it. You would then have to flush it out or replace it. Hope that helps.
1helpful
1answer

With all controls off it blows hot air even on the coldest setting

try this relearn procedure.

turn key on engine not running
set controlls to: vent, tempature cold, fan on low
turn key off
disconnect battery
wait 30 seconds
reconnect battery
turn key on do not start engine
wait 90 seconds while system recalibrates
turn key off
now start the engine and recheck for a/c operation

if this dosent fix the tempature controll than you will need to replace the blend door motor
and it is behind the glove box, it is black and has one plug on it. if you have to replace it make sure
you go through the relearn procedure afterwards.

[email protected]
0helpful
1answer

'98 S-10 heater blowing cold air - not hot air

will the air flow switch from floor to the mid to defrost? if so then we have a problem with the tempature door actuator. easy to replace just in tight place. Keep me posted for more help or if this was any help thanks
15helpful
3answers

No Heat in 99 Taurus

Just finished fixing my daughters 1999 taurus heat. It would blow warm only when running down the road. At idle it blew cold. I started with replacing thermostat, and water pump because they are the easier fix. Still did not help. Then I replaced the heater core. A daunting job but not that hard to move the dash slighly out of the way to replace. There is a good write up at tarusclub.com. After that, heat was better but at idle, it would still blow cool sometimes. Researched and found answer. Park car on the steepest hill you can find with front of car up. Start car and take off reservoir cap. Let car warm up and keep rpms about 1500. After a while the fluid will come running out of the car and all over the place but it will bring air bubbles with it. Reduce rpm, add more fluid and repeat about 3 times. It will make a mess but after that, the heater works perfectly. We get heat long before the temp gage indicates any and it never blows cold unless you lower the temp.
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1answer

Dash Gages

bad altenater or short in wiring
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