The body lift is included to ensure the larger tires can cycle through the full range of suspension movements without touching anything. The nice thing is that lifting a Jeep Wrangler (TJ) is easily done in stages:
- A 1 inch body lift will allow you to easily clear a slightly larger tire than stock, very inexpensively
- A 2 inch suspension lift would allow another tire-size upgrade, and increase ground clearance as dollars allow
In the end, a 1" body lift, combined with a 2" or 3" suspension lift will allow you to fit a 33" tire under these Jeeps. This not only increases your actual ground clearnace under the axle by almost 3 inches, but those new springs will flex a lot better than the old ones, so your Jeep will be much more capable offroad.
Combine this simple lifting strategy with aggressive fender trimming, and you could stuff 35" tires under that rig of yours - that would be good for almost 4 inches of extra clearance (over stock) under the axles - but you'd want to look at upgrading those axles if you're going with a tire over 33".
Other Lift Considerations... running out and slapping on some pucks under your body tub might sound easy, but there is a bunch to consider before the wrenches start flying:
* Get replacement bolts ready - the old rusty ones will be tough to get out and you'll want new ones to install
* Make sure you use actual body lift components - some areas will not allow a Jeep equipped with hockey pucks as body mounts to pass inspections - don't laugh, it happenes every day
* Be ready to lengthen wires and control linkages as needed - going up 1 inch shouldn't pose a problem, any higher might. You'll need to fabricate longer shifter and t-case handles, and watch for any other items which need lengthening.
* DO NOT run a body lift any higher than 3 inches - even that's a bit much. All you are doing it raising the centre of gravity and rather than the lift blocks supporting the mass of the body (and you) vertially, the bolts now must carry the weight through the turns. Think of it - does it seem safe to have 6, 1/2" or so bolts holding roughly 2500 lbs worth of body tub and humans in place? Keep it to 1 inch if at all possible.
Don't
forget, if you raise the suspension, you'll need to install longer trac
bars to locate the axles and adjust or replace steering components to
keep the angles of steering-related items within specs. A full, complete
kit, will have everything you need. Be sure to double and triple check
those trac-bars - there's two in TJ Wranglers - one for each axle. Their
job is to located the axle under the Jeep - if you hear a clunking
noise after the install, chances are the mounting or location bolts/nuts
are loose. In general, these nuts/bolts cannot be tight enough.
Re-check them periodically and after every two or three trail rides. As
with any suspension changes, go get an alignment when you're done.
Visit this link to know details about
2003 JEEP WRANGLER TJ INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS BODY LIFT KITHope this helps (remember to rate and comment this answer).
I'm gonna have to agree with everyone else here. It's gotta be a differential problem. With both sides turning at different speeds eventually your diff would wear and start to "skip" or break teeth.
Do you have a positraction differential ???
You need to remove the rear differential cover for an inspection of the ring and pinion and side gears. Running different sized tires on a four wheel drive vehicle will do some damage as different sized tires turn at different speeds. You may also look closely at the u-joints of the rear shaft and possibly even the transfer case.
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