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bleed slave cylinder of air. to do this let someone pressdown and hold on the clutch pedal, open bleeder screw let air escape close bleeder screw release clutch pedal, do this until a solid stream of fluid comes out of bleeder screw always close bleeder screw before releasing clutch pedal to avoid sucking in air into the cylinder. be sure you dont run out of fluid in the reservoir. and fill to max when done
find someone who knows how to bleed a system, just like bleeding brakes but with only 1 wheel cylinder. Helps if you tie a rope on the clutch pedal so the person inside the car can pull it back up when he is doing the pumpings between bleedings. Do not let a woman do that for you. There could well have been a thin crush washer between the line and the slave which you neglected to replace with a new one when you reassembled, if that is not there you will never get it bled. It crushes down when you tighten it to seal the system and it only crushes once
You'll need to pump the pedal a few times and hold it down, while someone opens the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, allow the air and fluid to release, close the bleeder and repeat until you just have fluid coming out of the bleeder. Make sure you check the fluid level as you go.
Step 1
Raise the vehicle and support with jack stand placed underneath the frame.
Step 2
Remove the cover from the reservoir on top of the clutch master cylinder. It will be located in the engine bay on the driver side of the firewall, near the brake master cylinder. Fill the reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. Do not allow the reservoir to run dry at any time during the bleeding process.
Step 3
Locate the clutch slave cylinder. It will be bolted to the clutch housing. Locate the small bleeder screw near where the hydraulic hose connects to the slave cylinder.
Step 4
Connect a length of clear plastic tube to the bleeder screw.
Step 5
Open the slave cylinder bleeder screw, by turning it counterclockwise. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal until clean brake fluid seeps out of the bleeder screw. Then close the bleeder screw. Make sure the clutch master cylinder does not run dry.
Step 6
Have the assistant pump the clutch pedal a few times and hold it against the floor. While the pedal is held against the floor, open the bleeder screw and allow the some fluid to seep out. Close the bleeder screw before releasing the clutch pedal.
Step 7
Repeat the process listed in the step above and watch the fluid seeping out of the slave cylinder. The clutch is fully bled when there are no more air bubbles in the fluid seeping out of the slave cylinder. You will be able to see the bubbles in the clear plastic tubing. Do not allow the clutch master cylinder to run dry at any point.
try to vacuum bleed the system at the master most hand vacuum kit come with adapters to fit over the master reservoir otherwise the system may need a new master or you may have a leak
I have not tried myself but see if the link below will work for your case. It is not the same model as you have but most vehicles have the same components for the non electronic parts.
http://www.2carpros.com/forum/1988-dodge-dakota--bleding-air-out-of-clutch-master-cylinder-vt248517.html
you have to replace the master and slave. if there is no bleeder, you might get lucky bench bleeding it, but the whole assy, comes from dealer pre-bled. The system is sealed and even to do a clutch or trans, you shouldnt have to take it apart. DO NOT PUSH CLUTCH WITHOUT ALL PARTS HOOKED UP! youll break it.
did you try to take line off at slave cyl. and see if fluid comes from resavor? also take bleeder out and see if holes are pluged up in bleeder. if all this chks. out ok than its got to be slave cyl. they have been known to go bad. just that quick too.
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