I'm not getting power to the fuel pump,it is a 2002 blazer 2 door, the only way I get any power to it is if I manually touch the points together in the fuel relay switch other wise nothing, do you ha ve any thoughts on this problem?

Question edited for clarity and typos.
Question moved to model category.

https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+chevy+blazer+4.3+fuel+pump+sender+wiring+diagram

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when you shorted the sensing wires together you have probably destroyed the map sensor. the car will not start, as it needs the barometric and manifold pressure. look in your owners manual for the fuses and check, You can google 20004 Chevy blazer fuse box location and diagrams. Why did you change the map sensor, did you have a failure code indicating a problem? quit throwing parts and money at it.



Do It Yourself and DIY Auto Repair by ChiltonDIY

https://manuals.co/workshop/chevrolet/blazer/2000-chevrolet-blazer-owners-manual/5525

it will leak. your best way is to get a used one from the local junk yard

the pump is in the tank and does not require priming check for power to the pump while cranking it will not have power with the key just turned on

2 things that you have to check on no starts every time. Spark at spark plug and fuel. Turn key to run position and listen at gas tank for fuel pump to run you should hear a whining noise. This will only happen for 3 to 4 seconds then it will shut off until engine starts. You can turn key off then to run every 3 to 4 to listen for fuel pump. You may hear the relay click off in engine area even if pump does not run. Fuel pump failure is pretty common. If pump is running pull spark plug out or put a spare plug into spark plug wire and have someone crank engine set plug on engine and watch for spark. This will give you a starting point. Hope it helps.

usually two screws one at the armrest and one under the power window console , this console usually pops out to let you at the screw.

bad ground?

Sure there is!

DO THIS FIRST!!!
When you turn the key on, and the gauges and warning lights come to life, does the needle on the fuel gauge move a tiny bit? It should. If it does move a hair, this is a good sign your gauge is still good. If not, keep reading.

The gauges themselves are usually not at fault, but they can fail, of course. Usually, it's the sender or float that's the culprit. The assembly resides in the fuel tank in the module or unit that houses your fuel pump. Many customers (when faced with the cost of this tank job) will opt for waiting until the fuel pump goes bad, and replacing pump and sending unit together. However, there are obvious drawbacks to this!

ONE test you could do if you are good at driveway car work is this: Crawl under vehicle and find the bundle of wires (not tubes or lines) that goes up to the top of the fuel tank. Sometimes you can reach it through the rear wheel well. Follow this small group of wires up to wherever it plugs in to the pigtail coming out of the tank. THis could be on top of tank, or just outside the perimeter of the tank. Unplug this connection. Using a common 12 volt test lamp probe, ground the test lamp, turn the key to the "ON" position so dash lights up, and touch tester to each wire tip on the end not connected to the tank (engine side of wire harness.) Have someone watch the fuel gauge as you touch the leads one by one. The gauge should move when one of these is grounded thru the lite. Total deflection of the needle means your sender is at fault, not the gauge. BUt it's usually the sender, anyway. THey're cheap enough, but the labor on a tank job can vary from place to place.

Good luck, TT

yes you have to drop the tank. you will also need a fuel line tool to unhook the fuel lines. before you drop the tank see if tou can reach and wiggle the electrical connection on the top of the tank. these pumps have a pigtail issue. please rate

you might have tripped the security on it lock and unlock using the key in the driverside door