2000 expidition eddie bauer koeo/koer not complete and vehicle surges peiodcaly between 600 and 1000 rpm at idle and when at a stop

Passenger side of the engine compartment by the firewall.

Intake air leak

You have no mentioned any testing being done, the engine control module needs to be tested for fault codes, this should be a passive test (KOEO) and an engine running test (KOER). This is called a OBD2 fault code test KOEO test and KOER test.

the first check you should do to solve this issue is a KOER and KOEO. More commonly known as "pulling codes". I have linked the instructions on how to "pull codes". In a nut-shell you need to use a length of wire or paperclip to "ground" a pin on your self test connector (under the hood, driver side). Then, you get in the truck and turn on the key and count the blinks of the check engine light (CEL). This is called a KOEO (key on, engine off) test. For the KOER (key on, engine running) you will need to warm the vehicle to operating temperature then go through series of "press the brake, turn the wheel, press the OD switch etc..." and it will test all of your sensors. Then, it will blink some codes at you once this process is complete. It might be annoying at first, until you get the steps memorized. However, once you've figured out how it works--it'll be a life-saver. Don't replace a component without out doing a KOEO or KOER, first; or your just wasting money. Hope this helps

http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13

the first check you should do to solve this issue is a KOER and KOEO. More commonly known as "pulling codes". I have linked the instructions on how to "pull codes". In a nut-shell you need to use a length of wire or paperclip to "ground" a pin on your self test connector (under the hood, driver side). Then, you get in the truck and turn on the key and count the blinks of the check engine light (CEL). This is called a KOEO (key on, engine off) test. For the KOER (key on, engine running) you will need to warm the vehicle to operating temperature then go through series of "press the brake, turn the wheel, press the OD switch etc..." and it will test all of your sensors. Then, it will blink some codes at you once this process is complete. It might be annoying at first, until you get the steps memorized. However, once you've figured out how it works--it'll be a life-saver. Don't replace a component without out doing a KOEO or KOER, first; or your just wasting money. Hope this helps

http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13

the first check you should do to solve this issue is a KOER and KOEO. More commonly known as "pulling codes". I have linked the instructions on how to "pull codes". In a nut-shell you need to use a length of wire or paperclip to "ground" a pin on your self test connector (under the hood, driver side). Then, you get in the truck and turn on the key and count the blinks of the check engine light (CEL). This is called a KOEO (key on, engine off) test. For the KOER (key on, engine running) you will need to warm the vehicle to operating temperature then go through series of "press the brake, turn the wheel, press the OD switch etc..." and it will test all of your sensors. Then, it will blink some codes at you once this process is complete. It might be annoying at first, until you get the steps memorized. However, once you've figured out how it works--it'll be a life-saver. Don't replace a component without out doing a KOEO or KOER, first; or your just wasting money. If you have no codes, then I would start by replacing plugs, wires, distributor cap and coil.

http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13

the first check you should do to solve this issue is a KOER and KOEO. More commonly known as "pulling codes". I have linked the instructions on how to "pull codes". In a nut-shell you need to use a length of wire or paperclip to "ground" a pin on your self test connector (under the hood, driver side). Then, you get in the truck and turn on the key and count the blinks of the check engine light (CEL). This is called a KOEO (key on, engine off) test. For the KOER (key on, engine running) you will need to warm the vehicle to operating temperature then go through series of "press the brake, turn the wheel, press the OD switch etc..." and it will test all of your sensors. Then, it will blink some codes at you once this process is complete. It might be annoying at first, until you get the steps memorized. However, once you've figured out how it works--it'll be a life-saver. Don't replace a component without out doing a KOEO or KOER, first; or your just wasting money. If you have no codes, then I would start by replacing plugs, wires, distributor cap, and coil. A good tune-up is usually not a waste of money unless its been done recently

http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13

I have a 97 yukon with a rough idle, can you ntell me what you have found out.

sounds like the throttle posititon sensor

The idle air control solenoid could be bad. give the engine a vacuum leak and see if that helps any