Driving in town and when I back off the accelerator at around 50km's the engine makes a deeper whurring sound. Also when I drive over 80km's it does the same.

SOURCE: have a 96 camry 4

Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls and low idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve, they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

SOURCE: STUTTERS DURING ACCELERATION

throttle position sensor .. this lets the computer know just where your foot is on the gas .. It gets worn out in that position because that is where it is used the most. I would check it first then go from there... they are priced reasonable .. always start with the least expensive first then go from there. thanks Jerry holler if you need more

SOURCE: 1985 Toyota Camry sluggish acceleration

check the fuel filter and when was the last time you had a tranny service done and a tune up also check the drivebelt

SOURCE: Transmission issue - almost no reverse & clacking

I've got exactly the same problem in '93 Camry w/5SFE automatic w/248,000mi. Transmission shop I trust told me ****** was gone. Another mechanic said the same. I'll drive it 'til the forward gears stop working. Forward L,2,D work great, except downshifting doesn't slow the car at all, although the engine goes to idle.

Let me know if there is any easy fix! Already did a fluid & filter change. . . .results no change. Thanks, cc

SOURCE: 2009 toyota corolla hesitates when accelerating.

If you own a 2004, 2005, 2006 or 2007 Toyota Corolla and your car hesitates when you accelerate or it hesitates when driving, you should try the solution described here. Below is a list of the behavior your car may show that tells that you should try this procedure before going to a mechanic or repair shop.

• The accelerator is slightly pressed while the car is running and it slightly jitters or hesitates
• After completely stopping the car (a red light for example), it hesitates when you accelerate to continue driving
• Engine power is below the usual level
• Sometimes check engine light turns on

You should know that while those problems can be caused by several issues, including low quality or altered fuel or even a loosely tighten fuel cap, the most common cause is a dirty MAF flow meter sensor.
The MAF sensor (Mass Air Flow Meter Sensor) is in charge of detecting how much air (in mass, not volume) is coming in to the engine, so the ecm computer can calculate the amount of fuel to be injected.
Some times this sensor gets contaminated by lots of microscopic debris that scape the air filter and accumulate on its sensing parts over time. The resulting effect is that the MAF flow meter sensor gets less "sensible" and detects less air than it is currently entering the engine. The reaction of the ecm computer will be to inject less fuel to keep the air fuel balance, taking as reference the false reading of the MAF flow meter sensor. This will produce a too-lean mixture, which is responsible of the hesitation, the loss in power and the check engine light.
If your car engine, besides the hesitation, is also producing knocking or engine pinging at high loads, like when going up through a hill, it is attributed to this too-lean condition.
Before going to an auto parts store or to a mechanic to fix the problem, you should try fixing it your self. If the problem is a dirty MAF flow meter sensor, the solution is to clean it, plain and simple. That may save you some money that a mechanic will charge for cleaning it (you could do the same) or for replacing the part when most of the times it is not damaged, just dirty or contaminated