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Anonymous Posted on Jul 21, 2017

Shakes and dies when RPM goes below 1

Well I have a 2000 Ford T and when I am at a stop light or stop sign,slowing under 25 mph, or even in park the meter for the RPM allways goes down. Then the car shakes back and forth, and if the meter goes below 1, the car just dies. I have to constantly keep my foot on the gas and brake at the same time so it doesn't die when im in the middle of an intersection. Whats wrong with my car? How can i get this fixed?

1 Answer

Russ Hill

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  • Ford Master 4,057 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 21, 2017
 Russ Hill
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Joined: Oct 22, 2012
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Intake idler unit needs cleaning unit is on the side of the intake not the one that controls throttle the other one. remove and clean out. or spray carb cleaner in to clean out. also clean the connectors on the wiring. should be fine after that, if not you will need to remove it and give it really good clean out.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 323 Answers
  • Posted on May 12, 2009

SOURCE: My 1998 Ford F-150 5.4L V8 shakes at idle.If im at

Usually that sounds like a bad spark plug wire. It could be one of the coil packs. I have the same truck and last year that happened to me. I went to Autozone and had them check it and it showed a bad #8 wire. By that most of my hair was pulled out. But it could also be a clogged fuel filter, just not all the way. I finally bought a meter so I can check my own codes. Do you have a "Check Engine" light on?

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Anonymous

  • 224 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 29, 2009

SOURCE: 2003 Ford Taurus, 90K, used car, engines shakes, ABS goes on

Are you getting any codes from the Check Engine Light? This sounds like it could have something to do with a sensor. Check your air filter and make sure it's clean. The tach on my 1999 doesn't really work, but it hasn't coincided with other driveability problems. The engine doesn't change in it's RPM's, the tachometer just stops working. Have your charging system checked. The shaking might be coming from bad fuel pump operation, clogged fuel filter, or dirty fuel injectors. Try putting an additive into your gastank to clean the injectors (a bottle of Seafoam is great for this). Try calling your local Autozone and see if they do free trouble code scanning. This might help lead you in a better direction.

jetfixr

  • 220 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 31, 2010

SOURCE: ENGINE IDLE DROPS WAY DOWN AT STOP LIGHT,

You seem to have the dreaded IAC ( idle air control valve) problem that Ford is famous for. The first likely suspect is the IAC valve itself, but there can be other contributing factors. With the amount of space I could not do the subject justice, but there are many online Ford forums that address this problem. I think the Ford price for the IAC is around $100. The Autozone cheapie is around $50. I think the Ford unit is a better part, but you have to make your decision. Do some reading up on the subject before buying any parts though.
Good luck.

Anonymous

  • 376 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 16, 2011

SOURCE: when im driving my 2000

You might have a bad throttle position sensor that's going bad.You didn't say if you had a check engine light that's on or not.If there is then I would recommend that you have your local auto parts store retrieve the codes and and that will give you a better idea as to what the problem could be.Without actually being able to completely inspect all the necessary systems I would only be making a guess according the information that you provided to me.It sounds like a bad throttle position sensor

Anonymous

  • 594 Answers
  • Posted on May 08, 2011

SOURCE: 1999 Ford Ranger with manual

SCAN FOR CODES THE ONLY WAY TO FIGURE OUT WHATS WRONG
AND KEEPING COST OF REPAIRS DOWN COULD BE TROWING ALL KINDS OF PARTS
AND SENSORS AT IT WHEN NOT KNOWING WHAT THE ECM HASE DETECTED

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On my 2005 F/expdn, if I am on red light stop, when rpm goes under 50 x 1000 my car shutdown. If I keep it above 50 by pressing accelrator is OK, pl suggest

1st your car should not idle below 110 rpm even in gear

idle problems on these are caused by both broken or open vac ports or a dirty throttle body the A/F ratio cant get a correct reading
tip

Save Money on Gas/Petrol

  1. Avoid idling. While idling, your car gets exactly 0 miles per gallon while starting the car uses the same amount as idling for 6 seconds. Park your car and go into the restaurant rather than idling in the drive-through. Idling with the air conditioning on also uses extra fuel. Also, avoid going so fast that you have to brake for someone. Whenever you brake, you waste the gas it took to get going that fast.
  2. Drive at a consistent speed. Avoid quick acceleration and hard braking. Cruise control will keep you at a constant speed, even when going up and down hills.
  3. Avoid stops. If approaching a red light, see if you can slow down enough to avoid having to actually stop (because you reach the light after it is green). Speeding up from 5 or 10 miles per hour will be easier on the gas than starting from full stop.
  4. Anticipate the stop signs and lights. Look far ahead; get to know your usual routes. You can let up on the gas earlier. Coasting to a stop will save the gasoline you would otherwise use maintaining your speed longer. If it just gets you to the end of a line of cars at a red light or a stop sign a few seconds later, it won't add any time to your trip. Ditto for coasting to lose speed before a highway off-ramp: if it means you catch up with that truck halfway around the curve instead of at the beginning, you haven't lost any time. In many cities, if you know the streets well, you can time the lights and maintain the appropriate speed to hit all green lights. Usually this is about 35 to 40 MPH.
  5. Slow down. Air resistance goes up as the square of velocity. The power consumed to overcome that air resistance goes up as the cube of the velocity. Rolling resistance is the dominant force below about 40 mph. Above that, every mph costs you mileage. Go as slow as traffic and your schedule will allow. Drive under 60-65 since air grows exponentially denser, in the aerodynamic sense, the faster we drive. To be precise, the most efficient speed is your car's minimum speed in it's highest gear, since this provides the best "speed per RPM" ratio. This is usually about 45 to 55 miles per hour.
  6. Use A/C only on the highway. At lower speeds, open the windows. This increased the drag and reduces fuel efficiency, but not as much as the AC at low speeds (35-40 mph). The air con - when used a lot - is known to use up about 8% of the fuel you put into your car.
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