Car drops out at 2700 rpm and sputters

When you did the motor swap was this a complete swap meaning sensors, intake etc and all? If it was I would start out by proving out the Throttle position sensor. These can cause all kinds of erratic running issues. Keep working with me, I think we can work this out.

When you did the motor swap was this a complete swap meaning sensors, intake etc and all? If it was I would start out by proving out the Throttle position sensor. These can cause all kinds of erratic running issues. Keep working with me, I think we can work this out.

There should be a control valve or solenoid for the EGR, if you have physical damage to the EGR I would recommend replacing it. I have however seen EGR valves that look like junk work fine. Test it first.

Use a vacuum pump to actuate the valve and see if it opens. You may not be able to see the valve open visually so you will have to let the car idle and apply vacuum, the car should die while doing this. Also your EGR should hold vacuum.

These systems can have simple solutions to complicated problems. If you do not have a manual for the car that encompasses the testing of the EGR I would recommend getting one as explaining it here is beyond this scope.

Key points are
1. These must hold a vacuum when it is applied
2. These must move smoothly
3. These must have a source vacuum. It is usually controlled by some sort of valve or solenoid. If you have no vacuum at the EGR (as you indicate) step back to the controller and see if it has vacuum. If the controller is lacking vacuum follow it to the source and check the source, this should be a intake manifold nipple.

Clarification ~
What I meant in my commentary about the sensors, I was looking to see if you are using the sensors from the blown motor or the new one. I ask only because it can be hard to know if all sensors attached to the donor motor were actually good. You indicate that you have tested the TP sensor so we will assume it known good.

Hope this helps. There should be a control valve or solenoid for the EGR, if you have physical damage to the EGR I would recommend replacing it. I have however seen EGR valves that look like junk work fine. Test it first. Use a vacuum pump to actuate the valve and see if it opens. You may not be able to see the valve open visually so you will have to let the car idle and apply vacuum, the car should die while doing this. Also your EGR should hold vacuum. These systems can have simple solutions to complicated problems. If you do not have a manual for the car that encompasses the testing of the EGR I would recommend getting one as explaining it here is beyond this scope. Key points are 1. These must hold a vacuum when it is applied 2. These must move smoothly 3. These must have a source vacuum. It is usually controlled by some sort of valve or solenoid. If you have no vacuum at the EGR (as you indicate) step back to the controller and see if it has vacuum. If the controller is lacking vacuum follow it to the source and check the source, this should be a intake manifold nipple. Clarification ~ What I meant in my commentary about the sensors, I was looking to see if you are using the sensors from the blown motor or the new one. I ask only because it can be hard to know if all sensors attached to the donor motor were actually good. You indicate that you have tested the TP sensor so we will assume it known good. Hope this helps.