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no bus
means that the 3 on board computers are no talking to each other
That is possible because you have connect the power to the radio , incorrectly and are now short circuiting the starter, immobilizer , ECM
try using a scanner to see the codes that are being affected
Reattach the wires and buy a wiring kit you can pick one up at Walmart now or any car part store for about $20. They're color coded and let's you wire up any radio in 5 min. Worth the money and keeps you from shorting out your radio or other circuits.
I haven't cut a radio harness since the early 90s no need to anymore. Good luck
Look for a fusible link or fuse link off of the starter or a set of fuses or Maxi fuse that is blown in the fuse box.
Fuse Link
The fuse link is a short length of special, Hypalon (high temperature) insulated wire, integral with the engine compartment wiring harness and should not be confused with standard wire. It is several wire gauges smaller than the circuit which it protects. Under no circumstances should a fuse link replacement repair be made using a length of standard wire cut from bulk stock or from another wiring harness.
To repair any blown fuse link use the following procedure:
Determine which circuit is damaged, its location and the cause of the open fuse link. If the damaged fuse link is one of three fed by a common No. 10 or 12 gauge feed wire, determine the specific affected circuit.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Cut the damaged fuse link from the wiring harness and discard it. If the fuse link is one of 3 circuits fed by a single feed wire, cut it out of the harness at each splice end and discard it.
Identify and procure the proper fuse link and **** connectors for attaching the fuse link to the harness.
To repair any fuse link in a 3-link group with one feed:
After cutting the open link out of the harness, cut each of the remaining undamaged fuse links close to the feed wire weld.
Strip approximately 1?2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the detached ends of the 2 good fuse links. Then insert 2 wire ends into one end of a **** connector and carefully push one stripped end of the replacement fuse link into the same end of the **** connector and crimp all three firmly together.
NOTE: Care must be taken when fitting the 3 fuse links into the **** connector as the internal diameter is a snug it for 3 wires. Make sure to use a proper crimping tool. Pliers, side cutters, etc. will not apply the proper crimp to retain the wires and withstand a pull test.
After crimping the **** connector to the 3 fuse links, cut the weld portion from the feed wire and strip approximately 1?2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end. Insert the stripped end into the open end of the **** connector and crimp very firmly.
To attach the remaining end of the replacement fuse link, strip approximately 1?2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the wire end of the circuit from which the blown fuse link was removed, and firmly crimp a **** connector or equivalent to the stripped wire. Then, insert the end of the replacement link into the other end of the **** connector and crimp firmly.
Using rosin core solder with a consistency of 60 percent tin and 40 percent lead, solder the connectors and the wires at the repairs and insulate with electrical tape.
To replace any fuse link on a single circuit in a harness, cut out the damaged portion, strip approximately 1?2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the 2 wire ends and attach the appropriate replacement fuse link to the stripped wire ends with 2 proper size **** connectors. Solder the connectors and wires and insulate the tape.
To repair any fuse link which has an eyelet terminal on one end such as the charging circuit, cut off the open fuse link behind the weld, strip approximately 1?2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end and attach the appropriate new eyelet fuse link to the cut stripped wire with an appropriate size **** connector. Solder the connectors and wires at the repair and insulate with tape.
Connect the negative battery cable to the battery and test the system for proper operation.
NOTE: Do not mistake a resistor wire for a fuse link. The resistor wire is generally longer and has print stating, "Resistor: don't cut or splice."
--- Fuses
Fig. 1: Remove the cover from the fuse panel
Fig. 2: Use only the fuses specified for the circuit
Fig. 3: Firewall-mounted fuse box, turn signal and hazard flashers
Fig. 4: Instrument panel-mounted fuse box
On earlier models, the fuse panel is located on the firewall above the driver's left foot.
On later models, the fuse panel is located on the underside of the instrument panel, covered with an access door.
I have a kind the same problem I really don't know is i can help but if the sterio if not factory may been installed wrong. i check the wiring most kid try to put the in and instead of spending the 20 buck to do it right they cut wires . if this happen it may be a pain but you can look and see if any wire been cut to power the clock or something
havent a clue without looking at it but this is one of them things best left alone as i have had similar before where it runs through radio,including the alarm and the factory immobiliser cut in.just loop from another circuit to make the lights work
dont think you will find one as evan the new haynes books dont have wiring diagrams only block diagrams as with the wiring diagram you can bypass the factory immobiliser.which means less work for the dealer when the immobiliser cuts in for what ever reason
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