Hi, I have a 1996 Saturn that's been giving me some issues lately. If anyone has any ideas as to what it could be, please let me know. I can't afford to take it to the shop right now. I am capable of just about anything as far as repairs go. Anyways, I have been having a problem with my Saturn where it clicks sometimes when I try to turn it over. It seems completely random, but this is what I have done so far to fix the issue: Checked battery and alternator at parts store, both are OK. When you tug/pull on the cable a bit from the battery (with the keys in and in the on position) you can hear the fuel pump and electrical stuff come on/off. I have changed out both terminal plugs with new ones. They are now as tight as I can get them without stripping either the bolt or the battery itself out. Initially this seemed to have fixed the problem, but it came back. I've jacked the car up and got under neath of it to check cable connections to starter, it is very tight. I wanted to swap out the battery cable for the positive side but the cables they have at the parts store doesn't seem to match the one I have. The secondary cable that goes to the fuse box is much smaller than the one in the car. I am not sure if it's safe to use such a low gauge wire. The starter doesn't /seem/ to be the issue. I am pretty sure it's a connection issue because the various terminals I have gone through have had these zapped areas on them where the terminal of the cable makes it's connection, like my socket wrench will get when I forget or don't bother to remove the negative cable and tighten/loosen the positive side and it hits the master cylindrical and sparks. The starter costs 150$ +70 core fee, and that's really something that I can't pay for at the moment. I am actually pretty broke right now! Any ideas of what might help or what I might try would be great. This thing is driving me and my wife nuts. Thanks - John Saturn starts on starter circuit but won't run in the run key position
Re: 1996 Saturn SL2 - intermittent starting problem
Since you stated that tugging on the battery cable turned the fuel pump off / on, it is possible that the post inside of the battery has broken. See if someone has a battery that you can borrow for a short period of time, and if putting the other battery in the car fixes the problem...get a new battery.
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This may just be a problem with the wiring of the car's ECU. It could be a loose wiring. The ECU may be receiving power intermittently. It could also be just an issue with the EFI relay. The ECU signal from the EFI is intermittent causing the flickering and the clicking sound.
A) a rather noticeable rattling almost like a marble in a coffee can type sound
B) the engine running a bit warmer than usual after driving, say 210-225 or so, but not so much if it's only allowed to idle.
C) a check engine light, intermittent or not, reading an egr system code or maybe even something with the map sensor.
I would start to look at a plugged up exhaust system.
Outside of that you may wish to look into having your coils and/or ignition control module tested. Most parts stores will do it for free if you take them off the vehicle and bring it in.
I would look at the egr system. First pull the valve and clean it. If you have a vacuum tester this would be a good time to test the valve itself as well. When under load you should be able to see the diaphragm engage and hold and then release as you release the vacuum. If that doesn't work check and/or replace the egr solenoid. It's located on the driver's side of the valve cover and usually runs about 60$.
Yours is a common complaint and the above is the most common remedy. Outside of that you might want to check and clean the idle air control valve and the port where it's housed. If it is extremely dirty or something managed to get stuck in there that could affect you vehicle running at idle as well.
Another thing, even though you just changed the plugs, pull one back out and look at it. If is fouled with oil you might need a new valve cover gasket which if it's leaking badly enough will impede spark.
What this code means is the trans is slipping, the most likely cause is internal parts failure or shift solenoid issue for 2nd gear, but based on what I know of this code you will end up getting the trans overhauled.
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