Brake bleeding cylinder

You still have air in the system.(not bled properly) If you let the Master cylinder drop down to nothing then you need to bench bleed that before bleeding the lines again.

Hi there:
I suggest to check this procedure, when the hydraulic brake system must be bled whenever a fluid line has been disconnected because air gets into the system.

A leak in the system may sometimes be indicated by a spongy brake pedal. Air trapped in the system is compressible and does not permit the pressure applied to the brake pedal to be transmitted solidly through the brakes. The system must be absolutely free from air at all times. If the master cylinder has been overhauled or a new cylinder has been installed, bleed the cylinder on a bench before installation. When bleeding brakes, bleed at the wheel most distant from the master cylinder first, the next most distant second, and so on. During the bleeding operation the master cylinder must be kept at least 3 / 4 full of brake fluid.


The ABS bleeding procedure is different from the conventional method. It consists of the following three steps:
Step 1: Conventional manual brake bleed.
Step 2: Bleeding the system using the DRB scan tool.
Step 3: An additional conventional manual brake bleed.

The recommended ABS bleeding procedure is as follows:

1. To bleed the brakes, first carefully clean all dirt from around the master cylinder filler cap. Remove the filler cap and fill the master cylinder with DOT 3 brake fluid to the lower edge of the filler neck.
2. Bleed the master cylinder first. Have a helper operate the brake pedal while bleeding each master cylinder fluid outlet line. Do not allow the master cylinder to to run out of fluid,as this will allow additional air to be drawn into the cylinder.
3. Bleed the brake system in the following sequence:
   1. Master cylinder
   2. HCU valve body (at fluid lines)
   3. Right rear wheel
   4. Left rear wheel
   5. Right front wheel
   6. Left front wheel
4. Clean off the bleeder connections at all four wheel cylinders. Attach the bleeder hose to the right rear wheel cylinder bleeder screw and place the end of the tube in a glass jar, submerged in brake fluid.
5. Open the bleeder valve 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn.
6. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly and allow it to return. Continue this pumping action to force any air out of the system. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the bleeder valve and remove the hose.
7. Check the level of fluid in the master cylinder reservoir and replenish as necessary.
8. After the bleeding operation at each wheel cylinder has been completed, fill the master cylinder reservoir and replace the filler plug.

Do not reuse the fluid which has been removed from the lines through the bleeding process because it contains air bubbles and dirt.

1. Perform the "Bleed Brake'' procedure with the DRB II scan tool. This procedure is described in the DRB II software information and diagnostic guide.
   1. Attach the DRB II scan tool to the diagnostic connector.
   2. Run the Bleed Brake procedure as described in the DRB II tester guide.
2. Repeat the conventional bleeding procedure as previously outlined.
3. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.
4. Check the brake operation.

Hope this helps.

you definitely need to bleed the breaks

How to Bleed your Brakes by Yourself

You've done major work and now you'll need to completely bleed air out of the system, to get the fluid to go all the way through. You may also need to adjust the rear brake shoes.

First, bleed the Master cylinder to get fluid through it. This should have been done before installation. Loosen the lines at the M. Cylinder and fill up the reservior with brake fluid. Pump the brake pedal slowly with the cover on the M. Cylinder to prevent fluid from splashing out. Once you've got fluid coming through the M.Cylinder, tighten the brake lines at the M. Cylinder.

Bleeding the brakes is a 2 person operation. You always bleed the brake the farthest from the master cylinder, then the next, the next, and finally the drivers front brake which is the closest to the M. Cylinder.

If you are unfamiliar with this process, you need to remember that you can't let the brake fluid get low in the M. Cylinder, or you have to start all over when air gets back into the lines.

When one person pumps the brakes, after several pumps hold the pedal down as far as it will go and keep pressing to the floor as the other person loosens the bleeder valve. Don't let off of the pedal before tightening the bleeder valve. Then repeat until all of the air is gone.
Teamwork and communication. Both of my wives were able to assist me in bleeding brakes.

You will have to add fluid and repeat this process until you have a firm pedal.

One man bleeder valves work if used properly, but who tells you what is happening at the other end while you're pressing the pedal?

Good luck.

1. Check the fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel. Add DOT3 fluid, if necessary.
2. If the master cylinder was disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder.
   2. Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.
   3. Block off the outlet plug with your finger, and release the brake pedal.
   4. Repeat 3 or 4 times.
   
   
3. Bleed the brake starting with the one furthest from the reservoir and then the next furthest, etc.
   
4. Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
5. At the point when fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug to 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.), then release the brake pedal.
6. Repeat until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
7. Repeat the procedure to bleed the air out of brake line for each wheel.
8. Check the fluid level and add DOT3 fluid if necessary.

Hi, your proportioning valve is stuck. Take the caps off and recenter the one stuck valve. Then rebleed the system using the procedure below. Thanks for using fixya.


For those of us who are not fortunate enough to have access to a power bleeding tool, the manual brake bleeding procedure will quite adequately remove air from the hydraulic system. The major difference between the pressure and manual bleeding procedures is that the manual method takes more time and will require help from an assistant. One person must depress the brake pedal, while another opens and closes the bleeder screws.

1. Deplete the vacuum reserve by applying the brakes several times with the ignition OFF .
2. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover and fill the reservoirs with clean fluid.
3. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected to contain air. If the master cylinder was removed and bench bled before installation it must still be bled, but it should take less time and effort. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
   2. Loosen the front brake line(s) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
   
   

WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle's finish as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

1. Tighten the line connection(s).
2. Have an assistant depress and hold the brake pedal.
3. Loosen the line connection(s) again, allowing air to escape from the master cylinder.
4. Tighten the line(s), then have the assistant release the brake pedal and wait for 15 seconds.
5. Repeat steps D through F until the line(s) are free of air.
6. When finished bleeding the air from the master cylinder, tighten the line connections to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
7. Repeat steps B through H, only with the master cylinder rear pipe fitting(s).

1. Refill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid.

WARNING Never reuse brake fluid that has been bled from the system.

1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
   1. Right rear
   2. Left rear
   3. Right front
   4. Left front
   
   
2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
   1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end. Be sure the hose is seated snugly on the screw or you may be squirted with brake fluid.
   2. Submerge the other end of the tube in a transparent container of clean brake fluid.
   3. With the help of an assistant, apply the brake pedal slowly and hold.
   
   

During the bleeding procedure, make sure your assistant does NOT release the brake pedal while a fitting is loosened or while a bleeder screw is opening. Air will be drawn back into the system.

1. While the assistant continues to apply pressure to the brake pedal, loosen the bleeder screw, and watch for air bubbles in the container.

Be very careful when loosening the wheel cylinder and brake caliper bleeding screws. The bleeder screws often rust in position and may easily break off if forced. To help prevent the possibility of breaking a bleeder screw, spray it with some penetrating oil before attempting to loosen it. Installing a new bleeder screw will often require removal of the component and may include overhaul or replacement of the wheel cylinder/caliper.

1. Tighten the bleeder screw.
2. Instruct the assistant to release the brake pedal.
3. Wait approximately 15 seconds, and instruct the assistant to depress the brake pedal again.

Remember, if the reservoir is allowed to empty of fluid during the procedure, air will be drawn into the system and the bleeding procedure must be restarted at the master cylinder assembly.

1. Repeat steps C through F until there are no air bubbles present in the container.

1. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
2. If the brake warning light is on, depress the brake pedal firmly. If there is no air in the system, the light will go out.
3. Once all the air is bled from the system, install the bleeder screw caps.
4. After bleeding, make sure that a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.

Did the pedal go to the floor beforehand? Was the master cylinder leaking, and did you bleed it properly? If the master cylinder was not leaking, check your brake lines going to the rear wheels.

When bleeding a break system have one person pump the breaks around 10 times and hold the pressure to the break peddle while the other person loosens the bleed screw......The peddle will then go to the floor..............Hold to the floor until the bleed screw is tightened again and repeat until no air is in the line............Repeat for all breaks and always check the master cylinder for low fluid level and top up.................Hope this helps you out.

hello, your going to need a buddy in the truck pumping the brakes while you bleed them. With that first you need to verify that the master cylinder is full, if it is you can get started, there are two ways you can do this, the first is called a non-pressure bleed, this is when you break the bleeder loose and have your assistant push down on the brake pedal and when it is all the way to the floor you tighten the bleeder up before they release the break pedal. The second method is the pressure bleed. this one is a little bit more messy, you will have your assistant pump the brake pedal several times and hold firmly while you break the bleeder loose, the pressure will force the fluid and air out quickly. you will have to bleed both wheels untill there are no more bubbles in the fluid coming out. be sure to keep checking the master cylinder to verify that the brake fluid is full.