I have the caliper and rotor off, spindle nut is off, but I cannot get to the 3 bolts on the backside because the metal u-joint cover is so close to the bolt heads. I cant get a socket on them, nor can I get a box or open end wrench on them either. I can't even determine what size they are - are they 14mm as I have read. How do you get to these bolts? I've turned the wheels back and forth to try and get on to them and now I am just at a standstill. If anyone has a trick, let me know please. Thanks, David
To start with, that is not a u-joint cover, it is a cv joint. if this is a chevy. you will have to pull the cv shaft out of the spindel. first loosen the outter tierod nut on the spindel, do not take off completely but just so its on finger tight. get a large hammer and hit the spindel right where the tierod goes through it. a couple of good shots and it should drop out take off nut and move outter tierod aside. now you are gonna do the same thing to the lower ball joint. only when your ready to hit that part of the spindel where the ball joint goes through get a prybar under the upper controll arm and get a budy to push up on it. as long as the shock is still bolted on your in no danger. pull the spindel out towards you from the bottom and you will have enough room to pull the shaft out of spindel to get the nuts. you might have to put ball joint back in without shaft in place to hold spindel still to break those bolts loose. make sure you use new cotter pins on ball joint and tierod nuts
The front wheel bearings on your Dodge Dakota allow the wheels to spin freely on the axle spindle. These sealed bearings may cause noise once they wear out, develop a pit on the races, bends and other damage that interfere with wheel performance. However, the front bearings form a single assembly with the wheel hubs and they should be replaced as a single unit. Fortunately, installing a new assembly is not a difficult process.
Before raising the front wheel(s), loosen the half shaft nut using an axle nut socket. Then remove the wheel/tire assembly and the half shaft nut. If your particular Dakota model comes equipped with an Anti-lock Bake System (ABS) sensor, remove the sensor form its bracket and move it aside.
Now you are ready to remove the brake caliper and rotor. Make sure to secure the caliper to the coil spring using a piece of heavy wire. Do not let it hanging by the brake line to avoid damage to the brake hose attached to the caliper. With the caliper and rotor out of the way, you have access to the hub/bearing assembly mounting bolts.
On some models, you can only access the hub/bearing mounting bolts through the holes in front of the hub/bearing assembly. Rotate the assembly by hand as you loosen and remove the mounting bolts. Once you remove the bolts, you can detach the hub/bearing from the steering knuckle and halfshaft. If the bearing assembly seems stuck to the halfshaft, use a 3 jaw gear puller to remove it.
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Thank you for the quick answer but I am working on my 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 4 x 4. Everywhere I read about this process, it says remove caliper, rotor, take off hub nut, take out three bolts holding bearing hub on, and remove. That sounded simple and it was up until removing the three bolts. I cannot get a tool on to them. I have read of this same problem from others, but the answers they get are "just move the wheel back and forth" or "I never had any problems with it" - but I'll tell you, I am having a problem with it. I bought my Ram new in 2002 and this is the first time I have done any wrenching on it - I always took it to the shop under a 7 / 70000 warranty and could afford anything not covered. Now, unemployed and at 74000 miles (expired warranty) I have to do this myself. I have restored 8 mid 60's Buicks and currently have a '66 Mercury S55 that I am restoring, so I am not unfamiliar with getting dirty; just that this has be stumped and I need to get my truck back on the road. Any other help would be great...David
That is exactly what I ended up doing - I went to my local Chrysler dealer first thing this morning (where I always had my service done until my warranty ran out) and asked them what I was doing wrong. They said to push the CV shaft in. I came home and had it apart in about 20 minutes!
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