sounds like the air-conditioning expansion valve is probably not working correctly here is a way you can fix your air conditioning:
Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.
Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:
the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system
the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat
the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car
the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to similtaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants
Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again.
Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find one of the valve-stem-looking things and CAREFULLY (eye protection recommended) poke a pen in there to try to valve off pressure, and if there IS none, that's the problem.
Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pumplike thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system).
Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor.
Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure, and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, and it will come with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance real-time as it adds refrigerant, and when the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.
Taurus does not use a heater control valve. It runs coolant thru the
heater core constantly. You may have a temp blend door actuator problem
or a plugged up heater core is also very common. Feel the heater hoses,
they should both be very hot, it one is much cooler; you can try to
back flush the core.
There is small cable that runs from the back of the temp control switch on the console that goes through the firewall and loops around a valve on the heater hose that is used to control the amount of hot coolant that goes into your heater coil. This cable hooks on the back of the temp control switch also. Bad news, that's probably where it came off and you'll have to pull the control unit out of the dash to get to it.
Had similar problem. The actuator that opens & closes the air blend door quit working. This is easy to see if you remove glove box. The actuator will move when you adjust the temp selector (do this while the heater is running).
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heater blows cold air idle chrysler 300 Questions & Answers ...
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Find solutions to your heater blows cold air idle chrysler 300 question. ... blow warmair for a few mins then back to luke warm. i replaced thermostat ... HEAT BLOWSCOLD AIR WHEN IDLING ONLY GETS HOT WHEN START DRIVING ... About 15 minutes after driving the diver side vents start blowing straight cold air but the ...
Nov 3, 2011 - When I press the gas, the air from the vents is nice and hot. .... So am Idriving a car with a ton of problems, or could the power steering ... Just anotherquestion, when warmed up does the engine temperature ... When the heater is on and I'm not pressing the gas pedal, luke warm air blows from the vents.
RedditFeb 12, 2014 - Heater blows cool air when stopped and warm air while driving 2008 Kia Spectra (self. ... just fine but appears to blow cool air when I was stopped at a stoplight. ... My temp gauge would also be pegged high when at idle / low RPM. ...thermostat only blocks coolant going to the radiator, and the heater core, ...Missing: 300m ‎luke
My 2006 f-150 4.2L 113,000 miles heater blows cool when at Idle ,But when driving the heater blows hot. Change thermostat change water pump change the Rad. change the blend door motor
flush the block bleed the system add new green coolant. After all that still blowing cool air at Idle. What is causing this problem.
If the heater hoses are getting hot, the problem may be a faulty blend door under the dash. The blend doors direct air thru the heater core and the vents.
Try flushing or blowing high pressure air through the heater core lines. its sludge build up and need to be flushed through heater core only. check antifreeze fluid level. only put in straight antifreeze, do not mix. most people do not know what mixture should be, so be safe and add straight, it will not hurt it, i run 100% straight antifreeze and never had a problem or worry about it ever freezing and cracking my block, heads or radiator cracking.
When the coolant in the heater core is hot from the engine and your fan is on hot air will blow through the hot fan coil, i figured it out, when i stepped on the gas i could here the coolant squeezing by the control or limiter valve, because the higher rpms make the belt spin faster which makes the water pump pump harder causing more pressure, so when u idle that hot coolant will cool down from the fan blowing on it, u need to find the control valve and open it up to full blast, then hot coolant will always be flowing through your heater coil. ;)
You likely have a restriction in the heater coolant hose circuit - perhaps a coolant control valve not fully opening, or a kinked hose.
Insufficient coolant volume is flowing to keep the heater core hot.
Try back flushing the heater core system with a garden hose to check flow.
The heater in your car depends upon a flow of hot coolant going through the heater core in order to get hot air into the car. If the heater core is partially plugged, it will restrict the flow. If you have a head gasket that is putting exhaust into the cooling system, it will eventually get into the heater core. When this happens there is no coolant in the heater core to make the air warm. If the water pump vanes have corroded away the result will be very poor coolant circulation causing the heater to not blow hot air. If your car is equipped with a heater control valve that is not functioning properly, the coolant flow will be restricted. One or a combination of these factors is likely the culprit in your case.
if the car is not overheating, the thermostat is working fine.... replace or flush the heater core multiple times to try and eliminate sediment build-up.
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