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Anonymous Posted on Jul 24, 2017

Car won't accelerate with gas pedal

While I was driving my car on a 35 mph road my car stopped accelerating when I pressed the gas pedal and instead began to rev the engine. If I coasted for about 50 yards and pressed the pedal (at 25 mph) I was able to continue keeping my car at the correct speed but I couldn't keep pressure on the gas pedal for long. About two miles down the road my car would only tolerate slower and slower accelerating speeds.

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Jeffrey Turcotte

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  • Ford Master 8,991 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 24, 2017
Jeffrey Turcotte
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Joined: Aug 22, 2010
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Transmission band slipping.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 625 Answers
  • Posted on May 30, 2008

SOURCE: engine shutter

try by replacing the spark plugs and the plug wires and add some injector cleaner to the fuel tank

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Anonymous

  • 62 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 13, 2009

SOURCE: sputturing engine

have your spark plugs, coil pack boots checked for moisture,on many ford water will accumulate around plugs,expeually if it has rained recently.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Mar 03, 2009

SOURCE: Slow acceleration from stop and when driving (trying to pass)

I have the same car. So far no problems with the Transmision. I had the Trans oil change out every 60 K Sure sounds like you need to get the Transmision checked. Is the fault light on. I have invested ina fault code reader sure is worth it. 
Good luck.  Vilmos

Anonymous

  • 25 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 22, 2010

SOURCE: 2001 Ford F650 with 7.2 Cat deisel acceleration problem

Check your TPS Throttle positioning sensor. Sounds like it has a dead spot in it or it is failing. May also be a wiring harness issue or loose connection at TPS too! If its intermittent then it will soon go out completely. It should be located on your fuel pedal. Remove it and check it with an ohm meter. Check resistance all the way thru from 0-100 percent. When it is not working it should do nothing and show no resistance. When it is working the resistance value will increase and or decrease as you turn the sensor.

Anonymous

  • 8 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 26, 2010

SOURCE: Stalls at low speed when in cruise control

You sould have recieved a "recall" notice in the mail about the cruise control for fire and failure issues. they are adding a fusable link where the cruise control harness connects to the brake master cylinder. if you have not had the recall performed yet you should SERIOUSLY consider getting it done, mainly so it doesnt catch fire, but "could" be the result of the failure you've been experiancing! btw, almost ALL Ford vehicles have been affected with the cruise control recall. hope this helps!

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I have a 2013 nissan versa with acceleration issues. I don't have a code that comes up. Just happened once so far after having to stop for gas. Happened when I got back on the road.

A dirty or clogged fuel filter is another reason for a car not accelerating like it's supposed to when required to do so. With a dirty fuel filter, the engine won't be getting enough fuel which means that the vehicle won't be giving the acceleration performance that it should.

There are many reasons why your vehicle may be losing power, especially when accelerating. Some of these common causes are: Mechanical problems such as: Low compression, clogged fuel filter, dirty air filter, clogged Exhaust Manifold. ... Malfunction of actuators such as: Bad injectors, bad fuel pump, bad spark plugs
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My 2003 ford taurus just stopped accelerating when i push the gas pedal while i was driving

it could b just the acklator cable that slipped of the throttle body
look under hooh a have someone press on the acc and see if anythingis moving
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I have a 2004 Saturn Ion. The car will not accelerate beyond 35 mph with the gas pedal totally to the floor. The car is making a wheezing like sound as she goes. The check engine light came on and the...

Have the cat converter check for failure and blocking the exhaust pipe. No codes will show . Test by hitting the cat converter with the heel of your hand and if it rattles get a new one.
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Gas pedal acts like brake?

Could be plug catalytic con.
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Obd2 system rediness status won't clear so I can run the smog test due to replacing the battery.

takes a long time to run the rediness test since there are 6 different tests to complete...

PROCEDURE 1
EVAPORATIVE EMISSION SYSTEM LEAK MONITOR
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature: 30°C (75°F) or less (The engine is stopped before the test drive is started).
Atmospheric temperature: 5 - 30°C (41 - 113°F).
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Fuel remained in fuel tank: 30 - 50% is recommended.
Time required: 16 minutes or less after started the engine.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position. Well be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 89 km/h (55 mph) or more.
While keeping the accelerator pedal opening degree constant, keep the vehicle speed at 89 km/h (55 mph) or more and travel for 16 minutes.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position.

PROCEDURE 2
FUEL TRIM MONITOR
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature: 100°C (212°F) or less.
Atmospheric temperature: -10 - 60°C (14 - 140°F).
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Time required: 30 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 89 km/h (55 mph) or more.
While keeping the accelerator pedal opening degree constant, keep the vehicle speed at 89 km/h (55 mph) or more and travel for 30 minutes.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position

PROCEDURE 3
CATALYTIC CONVERTER MONITOR
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Atmospheric temperature: -10°C (14°F) or more.
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Engine coolant temperature: Not set.
Time required: 16 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 89 km/h (55 mph) or more.
Travel for 300 seconds or more while keeping the vehicle speed at 89 km/h (55 mph) or more.
Decelerate until the vehicle speed is within 80 km/h (50 mph) or less.
While traveling at 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) for 10 minutes or more, fully close the throttle at least once in 2 minutes and decelerate for 10 seconds or more.
Do not repeat deceleration too often.
Vehicle speed may go below 56 km/h (35 mph) after the deceleration.
Stopping and braking are permitted. (If stopped or drive at 56 km/h (35 mph) or less for more than 5 minutes the monitoring may be stopped. In this case please restart monitoring from the beginning.)
After completing the above deceleration, bring the vehicle speed back to 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) and keep it in the range until starting the deceleration again.
Repeat the above deceleration at least 5 times.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position

PROCEDURE 4
HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR MONITOR
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature: 100°C (212°F) or more.
Atmospheric temperature: -10°C - 60°C (14 - 140°F) or more.
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Time required: 16 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph).
While keeping the accelerator pedal opening degree constant, keep the vehicle speed at 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) and travel for 16 minutes or more.
Stopping and braking during this operation are permitted. Keep the accelerator opening degree constant for 1 minute or more after each acceleration.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position

PROCEDURE 5
EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR) SYSTEM MONITOR
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature: 100°C (212°F) or less.
Atmospheric temperature: 5 - 60°C (41 - 140°F).
A/C switch: OFF.
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Time required: 16 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph).
While traveling 16 minutes or more at 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) with engine speed 2,000 r/min or above, fully close the throttle at decelerate for 5 seconds or more until the engine speed reaches 1,000 r/min or under.
Do not repeat deceleration too often.
Stopping and braking are permitted (Rapid deceleration and sharp steering are not permitted).
After completing the deceleration, bring the vehicle speed back to 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) and keep it in the range until starting the deceleration again.
Repeat the above deceleration at least 8 times by fully closing the throttle valve.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position

PROCEDURE 6
OTHER MONITOR (Main Components, Sensors & Switches, Wire Breakage & Short Circuit)
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature:
100°C (212°F) or less (Except engine coolant temperature sensor monitoring).
30°C (86°F) or less (Engine coolant temperature sensor monitoring).
Atmospheric temperature:
5°C (41°F) or more (Except engine coolant temperature sensor monitoring).
-10°C (14°F) or less (Engine coolant temperature sensor monitoring).
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Time required: 21 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 56 km/h (35 mph) or more.
While keeping the accelerator pedal opening degree constant, keep the vehicle speed at 56 km/h (35 mph) or more and travel for 16 minutes or more.
Return the vehicle to the shop.
After stopping the vehicle, continue idling for 5 minutes, and then turn the ignition switch to the "LOCK" (OFF) position. Moreover, the vehicle should be set to the following conditions for idling.
A/C switch: OFF
Lights and all accessories: OFF
Transmission: Neutral
1helpful
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Golf SE 1.8l 1781 cc auto, constant jerking. Have tried all possibles suggestions but still not fixed

try this to see if it gets any better,from stop.put into drive and let car accelerate without gas(do not touch gas pedal) around 30/35 mph is about right.STOP.then use 1/3rd gas(keep foot still)and do same(around 60/70 mph)STOP. then foot to floor and go to max legal speed.then back off to 1/3rd pedal.then stop.you have just reset computerised gearbox settings.(only use 1/3rd gas for about 250miles,and you will feel the difference(boring)but saves you a fortune in fuel costs.and if you still have problem put on diagnostic to check out.
0helpful
1answer

When slowing down the transmission feels as if it is jerking in to the next gear.

after checking fluid level is correct, try this, to see if it improves...
into drive,let car accelerate without any gas(do not touch pedal)to max speed (about 30/35mph).stop,then with 1/3rd gas pedal,accelerate to max speed(do not move foot)stop,then foot hard to floor,upto about 60mph,then stop.then only using a max of 1/3rd gas pedal,drive for about 15miles.you have just reset the drivetrain computer setings....the car is fitted with a computer controlled fuzzy logic gearbox,it will try to make you drive as eco as poss,but if used harshly the gearchange can be harsh up and down.....
if driven gently 4th will engage at 43 mph,with a slight clunk.
0helpful
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Question to Toyota Ed: How would you explain Toyotas with Sudden unintended acceleration in cars that have the Denso pedal in them? I have heard that Volkswagen Jettas are also using the Electronic...

Hello, Zman777.

According to the material provided by Toyota, the Denso pedal does not have the alleged acceleration issue.

Also, according to information that has been provided by Toyota, the alleged acceleration issues is being caused by two possibilities;

One is additional placement(s) of floor mats on top of the factory floor mat. The extra mats are not secured, and can move around the driver side footwell, and, in the worst case scenario, move on top of the accelerator pedal, and trap in into the 'applied' position. I myself have experienced this mat/entrapment issue during a road test.

The other possibility is that certain accelerator pedal mechanisms may mechanically stick in a partially depressed position or slowly return to the idle position. Over time, the internal mechanism in the accelerator pedal my become worn. As a result of this wear, combined with certain operating and enviromental conditions, friction in the mechanism may increase and intermittantly result in the accelerator pedal being hard to depress and/or slow to return or, in the worst case, stick in a partially open position, increasing the risk of a crash.

In short, according to what we have been provided, the issue is mechanical, not electrical. The modification that Toyota dealerships are performing rectify this issue, and, this modification has been approved by the NHTSA.

Nowhere has it been found that the vehicles with the alleged acceleration issue have 'accelerated' without warning, as in sitting still, and the car is suddenly going 100 mph. None.

What 'could' happen, if the pedal 'was' sticking, is, in my opinion, an 'Unexpected Non-Deceleration' condition.

If you were going 15 mph, and the alleged issue appeared, when you let off of the gas pedal, the car would continue at 15 mph, and NOT accelerate to 100 mph, as has been falsely mentioned in the media.

Regarding VW, sorry, I cannot comment on VW, or any of their systems, I am not a certified VW mechanic.

I hope that this info helps you out.

2helpful
1answer

I have a 2001 nissan pathfinder 4w. The OBD system-readiness status: Says catalytic converters, NOT READY; oxygen sensors, NOT READY; evaporative system, NOT READY. So did not pass inspection, I was told...

You have to re-set the obd via using Nissan's approved drive-cycle which is;

1. Start the engine when the engine coolant

temperature gauge needle points to C. Allow

the engine to idle until the gauge needle

points between the C and H (normal operating

temperature).

2. Accelerate the vehicle to 55 MPH (88

km/h), then quickly release the accelerator

pedal completely and keep it released for at

least 6 seconds.

3. Quickly depress the accelerator pedal for a

moment, then drive the vehicle at a speed

of 53 to 60 MPH (86 to 96 km/h) for at least

5 minutes.

4. Stop the vehicle.

5. Accelerate the vehicle to 35 MPH (55 km/h)

and maintain the speed for 20 seconds.

6. Repeat steps 4 through 5 at least 3 times.

7. Accelerate the vehicle to 55 MPH (88 km/h)

and maintain the speed for at least 3 minutes.

8. Stop the vehicle and turn the engine off.

9. Repeat steps 1 through 8 at least one more

time.

If step 1 through 7 is interrupted, repeat the

preceding step. Any safe driving mode is acceptable

between steps. Do not stop the engine

until step 7 is completed. If you cannot or

do not want to perform the driving pattern, a
NISSAN dealer can conduct it for you.

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