2011 Mazda CX-9 Logo
Susan Whelan Posted on Jan 13, 2014
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Rough idle in park

My 2011 Mazda CX-9 has about 101K miles on it, and I just did an oil change of Mobil1 Synthetic, and put a Lucas injector cleaner in the gas, ran through the full tank of gas, about 400 miles, it ran great the whole time, then fill back up and now it has a rough idle, but when under a load it does fine. Any Suggestions?

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shawn dionne

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  • Posted on May 19, 2022
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Im not a mechanic so take my advice as you see fit, but try seafoam injector cleaner maybe when you refilled the tank you picked up something.

bee jackers

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  • Posted on Dec 10, 2018
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Mine read air flow sensor as well but it wasn't the cause it was sometimes reading cylinder misfires on all , was dirty clogged injectors had to replace all on Mazda Cx7 turbo, I'll never own another one

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  • Mazda Master 85,242 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 13, 2014
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Do you have a check engine light on? Is the engine misfiring?

  • William Murphy
    William Murphy May 19, 2022

    2007 cx-9 Mine just started the rough idle , check engine light came on. Reads p303 cylinder 3 misfire

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Aug 26, 2009

SOURCE: 2005 Mazda 3 idles rough at stop light and sometimes dies

The problem is a faulty solenoid in the vapor recovery system. The solenoid is sticking open and allowing fumes from expansion of fuel in the fuel tank to enter the air intake and smother the engine. This is how the Mazda service tech explained it to me. It is a known problem on the Mazda 3 in various trims which Mazda refuses to acknowledge. Usually the check engine light comes on and the engine diag code reads mass airflow sensor, which is incorrect. I dealt with this for 6 months on my wife's 2005 Mazda 3i before the dealership figured it out. My cousin bought a 2007 Mazda Speed 3 which developed the same problem after a few months and was cured by the same fix.

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Anonymous

  • 1129 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 06, 2009

SOURCE: 1999 Mazda Protege won't start.

Recheck that the spark plug firing order or in other words the spark plug wires are in the proper order after that checks out ok, then run dry gas in the car and check all vacuum hoses there may be a vacuum leak somewhere.

Anonymous

  • 2382 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 28, 2011

SOURCE: I have had 2004 mazda

Hi, the seal on the cap can be rotten causing condensation keeping the gas tank filled or at least above half is the best to do for any car.A bad seal on the gas cap could allow water to get in down the tank...

Anonymous

  • 2187 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 08, 2011

SOURCE: 2007 Mazda CX-9 has recently developed a front end

Try to rev the engine while at neutral if you get the same vibration to pinpoint if its from the engine or the drive shafts. If the issue occurs at a certain rev it may likely be the variable valve unit. Check if possible if you can get errors from the computer.

Columbus Makubika

  • 577 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 04, 2012

SOURCE: I have a 2005 Mazda MPV with 83,000 miles and the engine light came on with codes P2187, P2189, P2195, and P2197. I was told all four O2 sensors need to be replaced. I put some Sea Foam in the gas t

The combination of the 4 codes leads to low fuel pressure, bad injectors or a leak in the air intake.

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seeing how the truck is an 88 there could be a few solutions that will not cost alot of money. I would try to add fuel injectior cleaner to your next full tank of gas as well has using a higher octane fuel or octane booster. Also try some heet. this takes some of the extra moisture out of the gas and should be added in a full tank as well. Some of the Lucas brand injector cleaner will remove moisture. If there is any knocking in the motor, on your next oil change put in a bottle of Lucas oil treatment or something I use called Hyper-Lube. They both are only 1 quart bottles so you will short the amout of oil put in the engine by 1 quart. When the truck is sitting overnight or for a few hours especially in a cool environment the oil will get thick, when the truck warms up the oil thins and you notice problems like what you described. I live in Indiana and the winter here can be a bit rough on a car/truck. If additives don't solve the problem then you will have to look into the possibility that there is a mechanical/electrical component that is bad. They can be:
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since it runs fine at driving speed I would check into the fuel injector cleaner 1st. The injector or the throttle position sensor.
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