My Honda Accord EX (123K miles), started sputtering when idle. My check engine light came on. I found out the code is P1166 and P1167. Which oxygen sensor do I change, upstream or downstream, or both??
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
What should I do if once I turn on my Ac my idle drops as if it's gonna die, and .... to a complete stop the rpms start going up and the car accelerates on its own. ... Honda Accord LX, and my Honda just started sputtering in idle. check engine .... My cousin replaced my radiator on my 90 civic and since then my temp gauge is ...
Jun 11, 2010 - 1990 Honda Accord Ex F22 209000 miles, recent alternator change When I ... When I take off from a stoplight I get a little hesitation/bogging/sputteringfeeling until about 2,000 RPM then ... My 1999 Accord had a similar problem (F18B2engine). ... It only lasted a second or so before it would actually rev up.
This post may be an old post, but I figured I'd post my findings in case anyone is still fighting the good fight.
My vehicle:
2008 Honda Accord 2.4L EX-L
Codes: P062f p060a p2610 p2118
Hard starting when cold or sitting for over 25 min. Otherwise would start fine and drive fine with no issues until next start.
Process:
Replaced battery, no change
Sent Pcm (ecu) for repair/service. ECU came back with no errors or damage found. No change.
Replaced throttle body, no change.
Cleaned map and maf sensors, no change. (This fixed issue for someone so figured I would inspect.)
Replaced FTP, code went away, but no change.
*Note: During idle, I noticed a minimal sputter. Almost not audible.
Researched more, and one person mentioned they changed the spark plugs and that fixed their car.
So, I produce a list of all possible fuel/Ignition related possibilities for hard start/idle sputter.
Spark plugs
Ignition coils
Injectors
Fuel pump
As for me, I replaced the fuel injectors, ignition coils, and fuel pump about 2 years ago. And due to covid my car was almost not driven for the last 2 years. So, I removed them as possibilities for me. That left spark plugs.
I bought some NGK iridium plugs and replaced them. Old plugs were worn. (See pictures). This resolved my issues. No more cell lights, hard start, or idle sputter.
Definitely do your due diligence, but I'd say definitely go in this direction if your symptoms sound like mine did.
Good luck, everyone.
If it's running rough, chances are that it's misfiring. If the Check Engine light is flashing/blinking, it is definitely misfiring. If that's the case, drive it as little as possible... Or straight to the mechanic because the more you drive it while it's misfiring, the higher the chance is of you ruining your catalytic converter.
have the compression checked its likely a head gasket is leaking and letting antifreeze back in the cylinder when you turn off the engine radiator would also be a lttle low
Change the belt it sounds like it may be split somewhere.Just remove it and inspect it .
90% of all transmission problems are due to a defective battery. Why? because of the electronics they run off of. Now is it crank no start or no crank condition.
Start off with battery. Make sure its fully charged and terminals are a-ok. Then do starter checks . Let me know what you got at this point ,, cause chances are if battery died the codes are lost . Keep me posted I
'll get you threw it.
×