Engine runs rough

SOURCE: My 1995 S500 Mercedes Benz is idling very rough.

before you spend any more money on your vehicle run a cylinder compression test. I know it seems unlikley with less than 100,000 miles but 119 engines do like to burn valves. the LH fuel injection system was only used from 93-95. LH is a germen abreviation for hot wire mass airflow. The later systems use a hot film. Your vehicle has electronic fuel injection so why did you have the fuel injecters pressure cleaned. unless you have the cis system which means your car is not a 95. Motor mounts are also a very common failure on that vehicle. In any event rule out the worst case and perform a compression test because it really sucks to spend alot on an engine and find out it needs a valve job. I'm assuming that the check engine light is not on. although wireharness issues are another common issue. these early C.A.N. cars are very difficult to troubleshoot electronically and the information provided by the factory is difficult to follow.

SOURCE: MY 1985 300 SE IDLES ROUGH AFTER IT WARMS UP

hi,seem you have leak on intake manifold or rubber seal on injector nozzle,be careful drop a little amount on kerosene on intake manifold and nozzle,observe if your idling get high the is there,maybe renew rubber seal on intake gasket,ty

SOURCE: 1986 mercedes benz 230e runs rough and stalls

typically, this describes a dirty fuel filter.

SOURCE: 1997 Ssangyong Musso engine has erradic idle & intermittent start

i think the problem is in the fuel line. i have encounter it too.. the best way is to replace all fuel filter. muzzo have 3 fuel filter. 2 located at the engine and the other one located at the fuel tank they called it as strainer. u can see the opening of the tank underneath the back seat of the car. also good suggestion clean the tank. duel dirt is the main cause of your problem cause muzzo have only a small tip that why only little dirt can cause plunging in engine. sory for bad English

SOURCE: I have a Mercedes C180

You need obligatory to access the Engine Control Module (ECM) using suitable diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car, in order to pull out all DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) memored. Then you will be full informed about bad components, and you will be able to repair & replace bad pieces and reset the ECM.
Yes, it could be a fuel pressure problem regarding the acceleration, but without access the ECM memory it's not a good idea to change pieces.
Regarding the limp mode problem, I suppose you have a CDI (turbodiesel) engine. I guess that in your case the turbocharger is responsible for engine losing power.
The car goes in "limp home" mode.
After scanning the ECM (Engine Control Module) with a diagnostic equipment you will find this: Turbo Boost pressure control exceeded
1. Engine stopped and ignition switch off. Check all pneumatic connections and hoses between turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control, boost-pressure control solenoid valve, vacuum reservoir, EGR control solenoid valve, intake-manifold flap solenoid valve, EGR valve with throttle - part of intake manifold. Also the vacuum connection between tandem pump and brake booster. If you find something wrong replace parts. If not go to step 2.
2. Extract the hose of the turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control part of turbocharger. Instead of the original hose you must place another 1 meter long hose with the same inside diameter, and then you check to inspire yourself the air from the other one extremity of this hose. The mechanical connecting rod of the turbocharger actuator must have a smooth and whole motion. If you can do that with your mouth, then you must replace the boost-pressure control solenoid valve. If you can not reach this with your mouth, then you go to step 3.
3. This is the most difficult work. The problem is that the soot particles deposits inside the turbocharger plugging the variable nozzle geometry mechanism = adjustable vanes of the turbine. If the turbocharger actuator is not able to adjust the turbine vanes the charge air pressure increases too much and ECM goes in "limp home mode" = engine protection software. As a result the "limp home mode" engine still running until you turn the engine off (ignition switch off) and back on when the "limp home mode" is deactivated, but the fault still remain in ECU memory!
4. You must be able to extract the turbo from the engine and then to disassemble the turbocharger, clean inside adjustable vanes mechanism and refit all.