Start the engine, sometimes the engine, (reduced engine light) comes on. Then you push on the gas and it will only rev the motor a little bit. You put it in gear and give it gas and only moves ten to fifteen miles an hour. You have no power at all, during all of this sometimes the cruise control works and sometimes it don't. A few time of shutting off and restart, sometimes it fixes it and sometimes you have to do that a few more times. Tonight the wife took the car and drove to sisters house the cruise didn't work. When she left there she started the car and let it warm up. she was on way home and the cruise was working, she came up to a slower car and pressed on the button for the cruise to slow down. Cruise stopped working, the reduced engine light came on and she made it to a side road. She shut it off and restarted it, no change. She did that a few more times then it finally started running better. She made it home. The last time this happened was about a month ago, and haven't really had any problems till now. Another thing is,these problems seem to happened when it gets really cold. That might just be coincedence.
Reduced engine power has to do with the electronic throttle control or drive by wire . All electronic wires under the dash on the gas pedal , electric motor on the throttle body . DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes stored in the computer . Take it to the dealer .
SOURCE: stalling, 'reduced power' light, and OBD code P1125 Manufacturer control air metering...
These trucks have a drive by wire system,we seen a` lot with a broken ground wire on the rear of the drverside cyl head,this is hard to see just feel and give the wire a tug .If the wire is loose or broken the reduced engine power light will come on.
SOURCE: Have a 2003 Monte Carlo SS. Usually happens when I
most of the newer cars especially the new chevys are all ran off the bcm or body control module, i would have someone with a snap-on brand tester check to bcm and the parts of your car first to make sure what is all wrong, could just be a shorted wire or a broken vacuum hose
SOURCE: rough idle, cruise control also stopped working
Sounds like you could have gotten some water in your fuel tank from that fill up. Go to a autoparts store and get a product to put in the tank that takes care of water in fuel. Use it when you fill the tank up a few times after and hopefully it goes away. Whenever you can't sustain power in the engine or it runs rough then your cruise control will constantly be shut off because the engine doesn't have the power to keep the speed up and should go away once your engine is running clean again.
Good Luck
SOURCE: Cant push the button to put in gear
CHECK MAKE SURE BATTERY FULLY CHARGED IT HAS TO BE 12.5 VOLTS BEFORE THE BRAKE TRANSMISSION SHIFT INTERLOCK SOLENOID WORKS.IF BATTERY POWER GOOD CHECK BRAKE LIGHTS TO SEE IF BRAKE LIGHTS SWITCH IS WORKING.IF NO CHECK FUSE.IF FUSE GOOD BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH IS FAULTY. IT CONTROL THE BRAKE TRANSMISSION SHIFT SOLENOID ALSO THE NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH.IF FUSE AND BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH IS GOOD.YOUR PROBLEM COULD BE A FAULTY NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH OR BRAKE TRANSMISSION SHIFT SOLENOID FAULTY.
SOURCE: 2009 chevy silverado traction control
DTC P1516 Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance
Your vehicle has an electronic throttle body unit so it uses voltage signals to control throttle blade in the throttle body. There are a few different issues that can cause this problem.
First off there is a update for the PCM to address those codes, but you will have to take it to the dealer for that.
Second there is issues with the actuator on the throttle body binding up and causing the codes.
Third there is a yellow wire coming off the throttle body connector that breaks inside internally and cannot be seen to the naked eye. The best way to test that is to grab the wire about 5 inches from the connector and tug if it feels spongy or breaks, that
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