Engine surges at idle and bogs until about 5 k rpms are reached ,if you push throttle to about passing gear than it takes off like a shot ,,how ever you can;t drive in town like this
(which engine. ?????)_
as always check all fuses. and scan the ECU for DTCs. first.
there is no need to fix OBD2 cars like 1980 cars (hard rows to hoe)
it can be 2 problems this......
lets fix the easy one first. idle. (and hope for moving issues to fix for free) it idle car is parked, so is 100% safe tests. (not moving)
so it surges at idle.
questions.?
1: hot or cold or both.?
2: low extreme RPM and high at idle.
400 to 800 RPM? surge.
1000 to 2000. what? numbers tell the tale.
first off, idle is the last thing to work right on any engine.
there are many ways to find what is wrong.
fix idle surge way.
i make sure that the engine holds closed LOOP status.
hot idle, if not , i fix that first.
keep in mind if not in closes loop and lean
all lean engine surge and guess what the ISC will add to the surge
because idle is way too slow, so the ECU open the ISC wider
and wider and its still too slow, so the ECU resets the ISC
this cause a worst hunt (surge)
the ECU adjust spark time and the ISC to get 800 rpm. (spec. look up yours)
so say , i see closed loop failed, OBD2 scan page 1
i look at the O2 sensor an its stuck lean.
if stuck lean and it really is (o2 bad?) then its lean and it will surge
.
examples.
1: i find 02 sensor bad, (only effects idle and light steady cruise)
2: i find fuel pressure at 15PSI , hopeless low .
3: i find all injectors clogged. and lean.
4: with MAF EFI, ( i find maf reading too low, (dirty) causing lean.
5: if MAP car, i find the MAP stuck hard high vacuum causing lean.
not knowing what engine you have or the idle hot surge range,
i can not go farther.
the driving bog tells me,
1: scan the ecu ,get DTCs; do that first.
2: clean MAF if car has one, ask how..
3: check fuel pressure.
my guess is engine is lean. and starving for fuel all the time.
cept WOT.
MAF cars starve for fuel if there are any vacuum leaks.
MAP cars do opposite, they race fast with 100% full power.
MAF is air density EFI
MAP is speed density EFI.
apples and oranges diffr. so what engine.
SOURCE: 1990 Toyota Celica GTS. Idle races too high
sound very much like a vacuum leak.... also maybe your timing is off? possibly advanced? try retarding it with the distributor if thats the case...
SOURCE: Idle surges after warm up and when brake pedal is pressed
1990 22re same problem surge when pedal was depressed thought it was booster or check valve still didnt fix it i even put a brand new booster on it just to make sure still no fix it finnally went away on its own for about a month now it does it just sitting at an idle with out the brake pedal depressed traced all vaccum lines no problem there and still have no clue
SOURCE: 1997 Toyota Camry 4 cyl., When driving it stalls
Get a timing light and check it.If the mark is jumping all over the place, your belt has jumped a cog and will need to be replaced.
Here are the common cause of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle, it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and/or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving
Here are the most common causes of idle surge, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake
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